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  #321 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 07:44 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by swt61 View Post
OK I got the VR1 dialed in at the 5.75 V I had measured for V1.

The speeds changed for sure. I'm still able to dial in 33 RPM with some adjustment left at the knob. 45 RPM won't quite get dialed in at this setting though. However knowing that I can revert back to moving the jumper if needed, I'm going to leave it as is. I'll be playing 33 RPM records 99.99 percent of the time.

That was fun BTW! Am I an official begginer DIYer now?
ok, so can you give me the new voltages for 33 and 45, just like you did in the very, very first step? It will just take a sec.

Also, you have a massive package in the mail. When changing the resistors on the Pearl, I'd recommend taking one side off, then changing one channel, putting that side back on, and then removing the other side to access the other channel. It will make more sense when you see where the adjustment resistors are.
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  #322 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 07:46 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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The knob detent for 33 RPM is right smack in the center at correct speed.

sweet! math does work once in a while. Then, just give me the voltage for the 45rpm setting, when the voltage is as close to the correct speed as you can get it and I'll calculate the new DIP settings.

edit: just for the hell of it, invert the DIP switches for the 33rpm setting and see if there is finer adjustment... I realized that for the 33rpm, both settings will "work" but one will give you better fine control. If the second setting gives you more control, then invert the settings for 45rpm and this may fix your issue... or either way invert for 45rpm and see what happens
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  #323 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 08:12 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by luvdunhill View Post
ok, so can you give me the new voltages for 33 and 45, just like you did in the very, very first step? It will just take a sec.

Also, you have a massive package in the mail. When changing the resistors on the Pearl, I'd recommend taking one side off, then changing one channel, putting that side back on, and then removing the other side to access the other channel. It will make more sense when you see where the adjustment resistors are.
With one lead removed from X3 I'm now measuring 5.21 V for 45 RPM and 4.55 V for 33 RPM.

I'm sure that removing one side at a time for the Pearl will be easier to deal with anyway.
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  #324 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 08:13 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by luvdunhill View Post
sweet! math does work once in a while. Then, just give me the voltage for the 45rpm setting, when the voltage is as close to the correct speed as you can get it and I'll calculate the new DIP settings.

edit: just for the hell of it, invert the DIP switches for the 33rpm setting and see if there is finer adjustment... I realized that for the 33rpm, both settings will "work" but one will give you better fine control. If the second setting gives you more control, then invert the settings for 45rpm and this may fix your issue... or either way invert for 45rpm and see what happens
I'm on my way to dinner, but will try inverting them when I get back.
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  #325 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 08:40 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by swt61 View Post
With one lead removed from X3 I'm now measuring 5.21 V for 45 RPM and 4.55 V for 33 RPM.

I'm sure that removing one side at a time for the Pearl will be easier to deal with anyway.
no, sorry, I meant the voltages with the motor connected.
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  #326 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 09:10 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

OK, 45 RPM is at 5.70V and 33 RPM is at 5.02V.
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  #327 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 09:18 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

Inverting the switch settings for 45 RPM is way too slow. The motor barely starts spinning the platter at first, and it's closer to 33 RPM than 45.
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  #328 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 09:21 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by luvdunhill View Post
Also, you have a massive package in the mail. When changing the resistors on the Pearl, I'd recommend taking one side off, then changing one channel, putting that side back on, and then removing the other side to access the other channel. It will make more sense when you see where the adjustment resistors are.
Massive huh, that can only mean one thing...you added the T-50 to the package! You're a great guy Marc! Most people wouldn't give up such a nice headphone so generously.
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  #329 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2008, 10:33 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by swt61 View Post
OK, 45 RPM is at 5.70V and 33 RPM is at 5.02V.
for 45, try 00011011

edit: should be 10001101
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  #330 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2008, 12:07 AM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

That worked Marc. It's dialed in now.
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  #331 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2008, 12:22 AM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

enjoy!
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  #332 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2008, 12:28 AM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

Can't wait to really listen once I change the necessary resistors in the Pearl. The Consonance PM-3 should arrive tomorrow.
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  #333 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 12:25 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

New home for my Pearl PCBs:


Parmetal series 20 enclosure, 12"x8"x3", 0.18" thick clear anodize aluminum faceplate, black painted body, countersunk screws all the way around

$75 including shipping, not too shabby.
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  #334 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 01:38 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

That should work great, and look even better.
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  #335 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 01:55 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

Now I need to get all the bits and pieces to finish the job
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  #336 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 02:01 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

You won't be disappointed. This is a very nice phono stage!
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  #337 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 02:08 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by swt61 View Post
You won't be disappointed. This is a very nice phono stage!
I agree, I'd love to hear Luvdunhill's comparison of the Pearl with his Xono.

I've been listening to it uncased, but now its time to get it over with and case it up!
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Sources: Modded SL-1210 Mk5 w/SME 309 arm, Denon DL-160; SACDmods Denon 3930CI
Headphone RIg: Dynamite > K701 w/mogami recable
Speaker: Odyssey Candela Preamp > Odyssey Stratos SE Amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s
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  #338 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 02:28 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

That should look really nice Pete. Have fun with your aluminum
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  #339 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2008, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

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Originally Posted by Pars View Post
That should look really nice Pete. Have fun with your aluminum

I decided to gut a computer psu to use for the offboard Pearl PSU case
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Sources: Modded SL-1210 Mk5 w/SME 309 arm, Denon DL-160; SACDmods Denon 3930CI
Headphone RIg: Dynamite > K701 w/mogami recable
Speaker: Odyssey Candela Preamp > Odyssey Stratos SE Amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s
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  #340 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2008, 04:59 PM
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Default Re: Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

So, I need some advice about grounding.

Phono inputs L-, R-, Gnd -- do these all ground to the case, or isolate?

Phono outputs L-, R- -- do these ground to case, or isolate?

DC supply voltage - does the (L-, R-) go to case ground? Where do the two DC supply grounds meet?

Thanks,
Pete
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Sources: Modded SL-1210 Mk5 w/SME 309 arm, Denon DL-160; SACDmods Denon 3930CI
Headphone RIg: Dynamite > K701 w/mogami recable
Speaker: Odyssey Candela Preamp > Odyssey Stratos SE Amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s
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