Pass Pearl PCBs and related parts

[Pars]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

yes, that's the plan.

I may be doing a group buy for the Linear Systems JFETs, assuming there is enough demand. These will work fine with these boards if you cannot come across the Toshiba parts.

The footprint/package type isn't even close to being the same on these

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by Pars

The footprint/package type isn't even close to being the same on these

close enough for government work

[n_maher]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

close enough for government work

MILSPEC

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by n_maher

MILSPEC

heh..

the Toshiba parts a D1G1S1xS1G1D1 from left to right. The LSK389 are S1D1G1 on one side (so snake the S1 between D1 and G1 and your good there) and S2D2G2 on the other (so snake G2 between S2 and D2). I'd recommend using zigzag sockets on the original 2sk389 socket to facilitate this, so you can get the new device situated in the socket and then plug the socket into the PCB and solder it.

If you're less adventurous, just use a matched pair of the single devices.

[Pars]

The footprint I have seen of the LSK is a round footprint, not linear? I suppose with some creative lead bending and perhaps some teflon tubing...

http://www.linearsystems.com/datasheets/LSK389.pdf

[DigiPete]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

I'm considering getting a few Pass Pearl phono PCBs made up. Is there any interest here?

Sounds interesting.

As a vinyl newb.... does this go between the turntable and the preamp or amp??

[grawk]

yes

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by DigiPete

Sounds interesting.

As a vinyl newb.... does this go between the turntable and the preamp or amp??

yes. it provides gain up to line level as well as the required RIAA equalization.

[DigiPete]

So this provides equivalent performance to units costing in the thousands??

I'm in. Does it handle most cartridges?

Can it run off ±30Vdc?

Cheers,
Pete

[grawk]

looks like it wants 36v or higher

[luvdunhill]

check out the manual I posted above. It has everything you need, including very detailed instructions and even a bill of materials. I'd say that this would definitely qualify as a beginner project, as things are presented well in the documentation, and there is a large support forum for this particular project.

I would say anything above the 0.4mV range would work, depending on how much gain you have in your preamp / headphone amp. I'd say that qualifies for most cartridges, as the ones that go lower (i.e. 0.24mV and less) do have alternative models in this range.

I'm sure it will compete well with some units over the $1k (used) mark, but I wouldn't say all. For example, you can get an older Pass Ono for around $1k (used) that will sound better and perhaps some of the low end EAR tube phono stages might give this a run for its money (I personally wouldn't take the EAR over the Pearl, but many will argue with me on that point, so I give that example as simply another popular phono pre in this price range).

[DigiPete]

Looks like the regulators are on the PCB, so just an unregulated PSU needs to be built.

[Nenso]

how difficult is it to build this?

[EdipisReks]

Originally Posted by Nenso

how difficult is it to build this?

[Pars]

RTFM?

[luvdunhill]

ooooh noesssssss

[n_maher]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

ooooh noesssssss

[thrice]

Originally Posted by Nenso

how difficult is it to build this?

level 3.5

[Nenso]

I see..., you see I'm still level 1 so I think I should go pick up some cmoy kits first... I just don't know where to start DIY. The only thing I can do is solder.

[n_maher]

Originally Posted by Nenso

I see..., you see I'm still level 1 so I think I should go pick up some cmoy kits first... I just don't know where to start DIY. The only thing I can do is solder.

I have no idea whether or not you're serious but if you are go to Tangentsoft and read the entire getting started in audio diy article. Then read the Cmoy tutorial, build 4 or 5 at least two of which should use an alternate board scheme from the tutorial and should incorporate more complex ideas (like adding a TLE) or second opamp stage. Once you get those done move onto something small link the PIMETA and add a regulated DC power supply and things like switchable inputs.

Until you do all that, no more questions on how to start in DIY.