Working on a new panel... what do you think?

[grawk]

they need to be bigger, obviously

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by grawk

they need to be bigger, obviously

[Pars]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

will do. Just playing around with that anyways.

Do you feel that the order of the knobs and connectors makes sense? I wish I could find a nice momentary switch that looked good and was the scale of the (tiny) Lemo jack, but no dice. Something like this perhaps, or does it look a bit pedestrian?

(can find those anywhere in stock around here though...)

That switch looks pretty pedestrian. I prefer your 2nd layout personally. No power on indicator? Or you using the VFD for that?

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by Pars

That switch looks pretty pedestrian. I prefer your 2nd layout personally. No power on indicator? Or you using the VFD for that?

I have some inserts that will be lighting the knobs. Nate pointed out a build that did something like this and I just copied the idea. The switch is actually a standby switch. I might use the smaller 16mm Bulgin, like these:



here's the entire line:

http://bulgin.co.uk/Products/Switches/16mmSwitches.htm

I don't really like the polished look, but it is reasonable compact.

getting closer

[EdipisReks]

a little sandpaper and it wouldn't be polished anymore.

[swt61]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

Nate pointed out a build that did something like this and I just copied the idea.

Ferrari perhaps?

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by swt61

Ferrari perhaps?

[Pars]

Some other thoughts on switches (from post pics of your builds on HF):

Delrin Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch Black - Red Ring Products Model: VSW-BK-RING-RD [VSW-BK-RING-RD] : Performance-PCs.com, ... sleeve it and they will come

and these APEMs that Steinchen used (forgot about these).

Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - Post pics of your builds....

[swt61]

Originally Posted by luvdunhill

I stand corrected. Ferrari uses but one LED on his lighted volume knobs I believe.

Looks very nice, quite impressive. Blue?

[n_maher]

One quick thought on vandal-style momentary switches, 16mm is pretty small. I got a few lighted 16mm momentary switches and found that they're just too tiny for my fat fingers and would have quickly become annoying to use.

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by n_maher

One quick thought on vandal-style momentary switches, 16mm is pretty small. I got a few lighted 16mm momentary switches and found that they're just too tiny for my fat fingers and would have quickly become annoying to use.

good point. I imagine I would use the remote 90% of the time, but who knows. All good suggestions guys, thanks!

[luvdunhill]

well, long story short is that a very large case from FPE is very, very expensive. The top alone was going to be around $200... so, I had to improvise. The case I got is a bit of a because, it is too deep to fit in my rack, or probably anyone's rack. That being said, here's what I've decided for the front panel:

[luvdunhill]

problem is, that the pre-made panel I will be processing is only 2.5mm thick, and it has extrusions that are required for the case assembly. I'm hoping I will be able to get enough thread from the blind holes in the rear to mount the 4 PCBs needed on the back..

[n_maher]

Why only 2.5mm? Is it to accommodate other panel mounted accessories? If so, I'd be nervous about having less than 2mm of thread depth. That might be enough to get two or three threads on a 4-40 screw but I wonder how many turns you'd get with a blind tap? That'd be one of those things I'd want to test before ordering an entire (expensive) panel. It might be easier to provide recessed areas for panel mounted components that can't handle a thicker panel.

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by n_maher

Why only 2.5mm? Is it to accommodate other panel mounted accessories? If so, I'd be nervous about having less than 2mm of thread depth. That might be enough to get two or three threads on a 4-40 screw but I wonder how many turns you'd get with a blind tap? That'd be one of those things I'd want to test before ordering an entire (expensive) panel. It might be easier to provide recessed areas for panel mounted components that can't handle a thicker panel.

sorry, I wasn't clear. The front panel has some extrusions to support the case assembly. I think it might be possible to get the entire panel fabricated at FPE, but I'd have to really think hard about it as I'd need to work in some angle brackets and a flange for the case lid. Too much to think about at the moment, as I'm really really wanting to get this baby singing soon.

I totally agree about the thread. In fact, the VFD I'm using requires 2.5mm screws to mount, so I'm consider going with M2.5 or a fine threaded screws everywhere to get more threads. Think this might work out? The FPE bottoming taps or whatever they use are very nice and there is very little wasted space. That being said, there is not much to work with so ....

[n_maher]

How bad would it look to use counter-sunk fasteners through the front panel and avoid the whole headache? Me, I like fasteners so I don't mind it when they're exposed sometimes if they serve a clear purpose. Granted, I think I was the one that suggested using blind taps in a thread somewhere around here.

Bottom line, maybe it's worth a call to FPE to see what they think about the hole depth vs. fastener size? They're the experts.

[Pars]

I would be really worried with a blind threaded bore in material this thin... it is only aluminum after all.

[luvdunhill]

Originally Posted by n_maher

How bad would it look to use counter-sunk fasteners through the front panel and avoid the whole headache? Me, I like fasteners so I don't mind it when they're exposed sometimes if they serve a clear purpose. Granted, I think I was the one that suggested using blind taps in a thread somewhere around here.

Bottom line, maybe it's worth a call to FPE to see what they think about the hole depth vs. fastener size? They're the experts.

yeah, I agree with the both of you. Problem is, they won't be symmetrical... gah, I dunno what to do. I'll talk to FPE.

[luvdunhill]

insanity... FPE can go down to 0.5mm material remaining without marring the front. Add on another 0.5mm that is unusable due to the tap. That leaves a hair over 1.5mm remaining. Cue up some M2.5x.45 standoffs at Mouser that I'll use. I should get 3 useful threads. yay!

[luvdunhill]

getting closer. Just need to decide what type of screws to use on the rear panel.. need to figure out how to mill the buttons now, as you can see the actuators in the picture. I went with a slight countersink on the rear as discussed above, so I need some "top hat" shaped buttons.. Also, I'm looking for a "smooth" Alps rotary decoder for the volume.