luvdunhill Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 (edited) I like things straight, what can I say. So looking for advice. Do I attach my steel wall to the concrete and live with a wavy line, or leave a gap and fill it in later with concrete. I plan on using metal stakes and concrete on the back side of the not-so-great-wall so that would make it straight.. I already want to raise the wall a bit so this is just a dry fit to mark the holes for the to be concreted posts Edited January 2 by luvdunhill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 Not a construction dude, but the waviness in that wall would drive me nuts. I wasn't sure on your post if you think you can straighten it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 I doubt any fix would make it look much better. I feel like I'm missing some overall perspective from the picture, like what is what, i.e. are you calling a "wall" something that's on the ground? But fixing/blending/hiding a joint in concrete generally doesn't last. Possible option would be some kind of coating that would span across the joint or if applicable, decorative trim to hide the gap/wave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voltron Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 I also can't tell what's what from your photo and description. Is what I circled the wavy line? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 (edited) Not to disrupt the construction portion, but just got this up and running over the break, and put it in the system for a listen today. In my typical tradition, currently uncased. This is a UGS Muse preamplifier. This uses the UGS 3 Universal Gain Stage (Pass Labs XP 12 and I believe XP 30 use these), with the Muses 72320 volume control chips. This was developed on a French forum (homecinema-fr.com), originally with a relay-based volume control, and then updated with some redesign for the Muses chips. There are threads on diyaudio for a board group buy there as well. The preamp is fully balanced differential, with 4 inputs and 2 outputs. Even though it provides a HT bypass function, I may hardwire one of the outputs for monitor functionality for headphone amp use. This uses Salas shunts providing the +/-24V for the UGS modules, and regulated down to +/-16V for the Muse chips. Custom Toroidy transformer (4x24V and 2x8V secondaries, dual 115V primaries in their Audio Supreme version). This was mostly surface mount, and was a challenge to build. The 100 pin CPU (STM32 ARM) was a good time to solder, with a size of about a dime. I've only listened to this for about 20 minutes or so today; it sounds very good, but getting the Pass Aleph P out might not be so easy The last picture isn't mine, but shows another builder's case layout. Mine will be somewhat similar I think. Edited January 3 by Pars sp. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted January 3 Author Report Share Posted January 3 (edited) 1 hour ago, n_maher said: I doubt any fix would make it look much better. I feel like I'm missing some overall perspective from the picture, like what is what, i.e. are you calling a "wall" something that's on the ground? But fixing/blending/hiding a joint in concrete generally doesn't last. Possible option would be some kind of coating that would span across the joint or if applicable, decorative trim to hide the gap/wave. I see. So the steel pieces are the wall. If I secure it to the concrete on the right (yes Al is correct with his marking) then it no longer will be straight. If I don’t secure it, it will be nice and straight, but there will be a gap between the steel wall and the concrete on the right. I would need to fill it with some sort of coating (Sika makes a self leveling material and there is some you heat up as well..) Edited January 3 by luvdunhill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 What's the maximum gap between the steel and the concrete? I really can't get a sense of scale from the picture and I think that's what's causing part of my difficulty. What might be possible is to set the steel straight, use it as a guide, and then cut a chamfer into the concrete to create a gap that looks uniform at the top and hides the variability that exists below it. Not exactly sure how I'd do that without staring at it a bit longer but that was the first thought that I had. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 (edited) - Edited January 5 by Pars delete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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