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Yumi and I spend the weekend building a bar for the music/poker room next to the third floor deck. We’re Pretty excited. Gotta love Ikea. The stainless steel/butcher block island is a monster!

Peach, and Orange Chocolate chip

Good ole ikea!

Went for a walk on Stinson Beach before the crowds got there

Not too fussy with sizing, from 40 to 42 mm is good. Not too small like a 36 or even 39mm. There's a used Tudor Pepsi gmt up for sale locally for about $4500 equivalent and another BB bronze for about $3500. Good choices both?

Because I like to wear a watch while playing snooker and pool, and being left handed, ( so there’ll be a certain amount of jerkiness on that watch ) I feel my next watch should be somewhat durable and automatic, so it can be winding while playing. Now there were two watches that caught my eye, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Explorer 1, I then came across that in the photos, JLC’s Geophysic true second which I like the look of even more than the Rolex’s, that JLC is also supposed to be a durable watch. The JLC is more expensive than the two Rolex so would take me longer to save for, but the watch I have atm is a JLC Master ultra thin ( manual wind ) that I very much like, so my preference is that JLC Geophysic true second being my next watch, however any thoughts here on those Rolex’s vs that JLC would be much appreciated.

After a loooooong weekend of sportsball, let's say yaaaaaaay sportsball!

Fish and chips!

So, just a little technical explanation if anyone is interested. In the Megatron design, the driver 12AX7 and EL34 outputs operate within a global feedback loop with the gain set by the ratio of R21 (33) to R11+R12 (23+24). The operating conditions for the 12AX7 are set by the constant current loads Q1 and Q2 and the grid-to-cathode voltage which is set by R11. If you look at the tube characteristics, for a set grid-to-cathode voltage, as the plate current increases the plate voltage will also increase. However, because the plate current runs through R11, this makes the grid-to-cathode voltage more negative, which further increase the plate voltage. The result is that the plate voltage gets closer to B+, which can result in premature clipping of the driver stage. So in order to increase the plate current without increasing the plate voltage, we must decrease the grid-to-cathode voltage. This is done by decreasing R11. Note that this will also increase the overall gain and decrease the closed loop bandwidth, however, since R11 is only 1/3rd the value of R12, a 10% change in R11 will only result in a 2.5% change in gain and bandwidth. If we wish to maintain the overall gain and bandwidth, then we need to increase R12 so that the sum total of R11 and R12 are unchanged, .e.g if we decrease R11 to 2k, R12 should increase to ll.3k.

Brother Daniel, thou appearest well set upon the path most strait. Shun the brassicas (which afford unto us nought but wind) and let thy repast be but the goodly flesh of beasts and the blood of grapes, and surely shalt thou find thy corporeal reward here upon Earth. I presume not to speak for the hereafter.

I feel like if anyone is going to get the most out of the Wicket chair it's Dr. Wood.

No boiling involved... this time. Three minutes each side on the grill, just went into the oven for desired mediumness.

More like good riddance!

Just learning some electronics from this guy...

So this is not a diet recommendation, but if you make guac and then brown a bunch of butter and whip them together, it improves almost anything you put it on. Tonight I put it on short ribs. No pix too stuffed.

Homemade Chile Rellenos made with garden grown poblano peppers with a side of ghost pepper, green and purple jalapeño, tomato and onion salsa from the garden. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post didn't go through this morning. Took leftovers from last night and made breakfast.

First spin after setting up system. ELO? Why yes.. Doing okay, lots of tweaking to do.

Ouch.... just knocked the stylus off my ZYX AIRY 3X cart !! F' me. ?