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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/12/2019 in all areas

  1. A tasty Steak 'N Egg, Lox & Latke Benedict Duo, at Snoooze A.M. in Fort Collins Interesting payment system https://www.tablesafe.com/the-rail
    2 points
  2. since we're seeing them at riot fest in a couple days... Wu-Tang Clan - Enter The Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)
    2 points
  3. I second the good iron.... I bought a cheap iron with crap thermal regulation and little thermal mass... so as soon as it touched a joint it would cool down. So I increased the amount of time the iron was in contact with the joint.... this increases the time the joint has to oxidize, the flux in the solder would all burn off and the joints were horrible. The solder would not stick to the oxidized joints and it was frustrating. Some years ago, I purchased a hakko fx888d and instantly my joints improved thanks to the good thermal regulation and thermal mass I only needed apply the heat for a short time. So, the flux built into the solder not run out before the was made and cooled. (There is a wealth of good information on you tube) I high recommend the eevblog I would also say a good desoldering station like a duratool d00627 makes like much easier. It has a built-in heater and vacuum pump. You place the tip over the joint, wait for the joint to melt, hit the trigger and the solder is gone. Its far easier and more reliable than trying to hear the tip with a soldering iron and use a spring loaded pump in your other hand, or using solder braid. It gives you the confidence that if you screw up (and I have multiple times) you can fix the mess easily and without lifting tracks off the pcb. Its so useful. I had a problem with the 400V- on my alpha centauri power supply. I figured it had to be one of the transistors, so I desoldered all of them on the -400V side tested each one found a transistor that had decided it was two back to back diodes, put all the other transistors back, replaced the bad transistor and had the psu up and running in half an hour.) I also second the good multimeter with input protection in all modes is also a must. I have this bad habbit of working on amps after work when im tired so I make mestakes... I managed to have my multimeter in ohms mode and tried to measure +400V.... I got a spark just before the probes touched the screw terminal. The psu went into current limit mode and the multimeter survived... a bit of a drama but no harm done. A cheap multimeter without input protection would probably have died. I have a brymen bm869s, its overkill for features and accuracy but its very robust . The brymen being abiused Regards and please consider DIY... James
    2 points
  4. Do you use the equalization to fix recording problems or to modify the response of the headset? Personally I think that modifying the response of the headset makes no sense. With speakers, equalization can be a useful tool (room problems, resonances, etc.), but with a headset you don't have most of those problems. Headphones are "cheaper" than speakers and there are thousands of different profiles, you just have to try them. As for DIY, I agree with Mwl168. I can only give you two tips: Start with something simple (a C-Moy for example) to learn how to soldering and then continue with something more complicated. It was one of the first things I did, buy a good soldering iron and a good multimeter. In the future you will appreciate it.
    2 points
  5. The good news here is that for the KG electrostatic amps that are often mentioned here (such as Blue Hawaii, KGSSHV, Carbon, Grounded Grid, etc.), there are proven PCB's for both the amps and the PSU's that many have built working and reliable amps with, myself included and I do not have a science degree and never forged a knife in my life! Extra safety precaution does need to be followed strictly given the high voltage involved! With that said, if you source correct parts from reliable vendors (Mouser, Digikey, etc., not eBay, not Taobao...), stuff the right parts in the right spots on the PCBs, exercise good soldering practice (many good tutorials on Youtube) and pay attention to layout of components (circuit boards, transformers, connectors, etc.) and wiring, your success rate is very high. On top of that, many knowledgeable people here will come to rescue should some things do go wrong provided that you have done your homework! It's lots of fun and a very rewarding experience!
    2 points
  6. The hardest part for me in DIY is the casework. With your experience making knives, you will probably have a leg up on many of us for that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  7. I agree with what has been said here, never too late to learn to use a soldering iron! That is really the hardest part since people who are way smarter than me have created great circuits that are free to use, you simply need to assemble it all. I technically did know how to use a soldering iron when I decided to start DIYing stuff about a year ago but my knowledge of everything about analog electronics were quite rudimentary, and I'm still in the same boat as jamesmking that I can't really make any circuits myself barring really simple stuff. After about 5 months of DIY I started the KGSSHV which was my first HV build and it went surprisingly smooth even with a so-so soldering iron and my general clumsiness. You really can save a lot of money and it is EXTREMELY rewarding to finish something you made yourself. Just be careful about high voltages like the others have said While I have no experience with audiophonics myself I know a few people who have liked what they bought from there (mostly chassis though).
    1 point
  8. While listening to a friend's vinyl I noticed this thing sitting by the fireplace...it's supposed to sound good. Do ya think?
    1 point
  9. Actually, there are several fans here. Dude has range! Haven't heard much, though, myself. I should give them a listen, what with my recently burgeoning interest in The Pop Song. Me, listening to this great, lyrical, melodic, instrumental rock record https://kaleikia.bandcamp.com/album/oile-n-fada-2 They're from Sanxenxo, wherever that is.
    1 point
  10. My sainted mother turns 78 tomorrow. I spent an hour today on the phone guiding her through the process of updating the firmware on her her AirPort (one I bought from HC's own Salty IIRC.) After a repeated error message, having her reboot the AirPort three times and her cable modem twice, we were successful. The updated decided it was automagically applied after appearing to fail repeatedly. Apple discontinued the AirPort a number of years ago at this point and didn't make a replacement. I don't know what I'm going to do when it's time for a replacement. I really appreciate the UI and bulletproof nature of the AirPorts.
    1 point
  11. I would get a used GS-1 and upgrade the old dynalo boards to Dynalo plus over the Gilmore Lite M2 with the brick power supply. Justin charged me $200 for them and the overall tone is warmer which should match a little better with the Utopia. You can also buy the GL2 and find a used Headroom DPS power supply instead of using the supplied brick psu for better sound. Best is to go with the GSX-mini or Doug ECP DSHA-3F to improve upon the smallish soundstage.
    1 point
  12. To address the point about using EQ with Stax: I did a little adjustment for the 007A using the RME ADI-2 built-in PEQ, and would not go back to stock. (Also will not use a DAC without DSP in the future.)
    1 point
  13. Joanne is helping me with an ice cream flight
    1 point
  14. They probably don't have many followers here but I recognize that I like Morten Harket's vocal record quite a bit at the same time I like listening to his music while I'm doing things.
    1 point
  15. OK, fired up the BHSE for the first time in months and listened to this new Tool album quite loud and my conclusion was I should get back into this headphone shit.
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. Well the new rig is as complete as it can be until the 3950x shows up(3600x for now, I'll move it into an office rig). All in a lian li dedk case. In the desk there is a power strip and a usbc desktop hub for my laptop to plug into so I can use my monitor kb, mouse etc with the same peripherals as my desktop. Only cables from the desk are ethernet and one power. I could cut that to just power but I lik weird net. Also I really like the height adjust, I work standing a lot. Super easy to build in.
    1 point
  18. Dusty want Ibanez Coral Pink guitar, but the nomenclature is CRP. Yes, there’s also a purple one.
    1 point
  19. This is my Jim Redgate double top classical guitar, I received it on Monday after waiting over a year to be built. This replaced my Dan Kellaway lattice braced guitar which I had for 20 years. It’s an incredible guitar, it’s loud with a big dynamic palette, and a beautiful tone with amazing even balance throughout.
    1 point
  20. My local transfer station (we called it a dump in my day) has a new "swap shop." Last night I carefully packed up a humidifier my father bought in the 1990s (I still had the original box) as well as my ca. 2013 3 PCI slot 275W TDP video card, and a Drobo I bought from ...one of you Head-Casers. I managed to get my ca. 1996 LaserJet IV+ working with my current MacBook Pro (it's got a network card, so it's just an IP and some Gutenprint.) After years of buying one shit-tastic inkjet printer after another, I love my dorm-fridge-sized-black-and-white-only-it-works-every-fucking-time-without-fail laser printer. New ink is like $150, but it lasts half a decade. Real printers make your lights dim when they power on. I used said LJ4+ to print out descriptions and basic instructions for the Drobo and the video card, because I knew no one at the dump would have a blinkered clue WTF they were. The attendant was quite pleased because he didn't know a GPU from an IED. Given how well the whole exchange went, I'm going to be divesting myself a lot of more things like it in the next few weeks. I did consider putting the Drobo and GPU on Craigslist or sodding Facebook marketplace, but given the horror stories I've heard I'd rather just be rid of them than try to extract $50 out of them at the cost of (what's left of) my sanity. Related: Anyone need FOUR Yamaha NS-1000s speakers? Late 80s vintage, they have a midrange driver that sells for like $250 bare.
    0 points
  21. RIP Daniel Johnston. https://www.austinchronicle.com/daily/music/2019-09-11/austin-songwriting-genius-daniel-johnston-dead-at-58/
    0 points
  22. And another biggie, Robert Frank is dead at 94. “He believed that photojournalism oversimplified the world, mimicking, as he put it, ‘those goddamned stories with a beginning and an end.’”
    0 points
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