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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/2020 in all areas

  1. It's worth checking the transformer, but that seems like the less likely issue here. Transformer induced noise will generally either increase with volume (if it is being picked up on the input wires) or be constant with volume (if it being picked up past the pot). And you have pretty good distance here. The grounding, however, does not look very good. It is difficult to see exactly what is going on, but what you need is a single ground point that everything connects to directly. I usually put two terminals somewhere, such as in the middle of the case, spaced about an inch apart. Run a thick-ish piece of wire between them, and call that your star. Connect everything - the PCBs, the jacks, the RCAs, the pot, the PS, directly to it. For earth, connect the earth pin on the IEC to the case as close to the IEC as possible. If everything (jack, pot, RCA) is isolated from the case, then you can use a ground loop breaker to connect that point to your ground star, but if you are grounded correctly, it is probably not necessary, or useful. Instead, I'd just connect that point to your star ground, too.
    4 points
  2. When I first got into serious audio in the late 70s', I eventually narrowed my speaker choice to DQ-10s, Magneplanar (can't remember the model) and DCM Time Windows. After lots of auditioning, I finally settled on the Time Windows. Never regretted that decision.
    4 points
  3. My Hera with about a year in between. From: To: She likes well biased amps!
    3 points
  4. Legacy Audio Whisper XDs.
    1 point
  5. They look like Quad ESL57, but they are the wonderful and obsolete Dahlquist DM10. They need more room behind them though. In the way that only Germans can, they have remanufactured the ESL57 https://www.quad-musik.de/index.php/en/products/electrostatics/esl57-qa .
    1 point
  6. The road biking is very popular in Reno. We have elevation and a lot of nice places for riding. It is not for me though, I will stick to things with motors. We actually cooled of here today and will still only be in the 70s tomorrow so back out onto the dirt bike. I don't know why I ride this trail. I wouldn't call it fun, but you do feel accomplished when you complete it.
    1 point
  7. Left to right: 404, L700 and 507 Sigma The one with 404 driver is more laid back and has more colouring while the 507 one has the best transparancy . But the L700 sigma is the best with a very full bodied mid bass and excellent 3D- imaging and soundstage I have never heard of in any other headphones. Love all three of them
    1 point
  8. Just for perspective, every time you walk across a carpet on a dry day, and touch your hand to a doorknob getting a little electric shock you are discharging a kilovolt or two of static electricity. .
    1 point
  9. It has been a few weeks since I have had time to sit down and listen to my system. Innuos mkii > YGGY > Mjolnir BHSE > 007 Most of my listening has been in my car or BT buds at work. The difference is startling. Makes me think of the republic (if my memory is accurate) where Plato describes people viewing the world via shadows VS the actual objects.
    1 point
  10. Here you go these are by metal571: Youtube video link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=p6zHolzGUTw EqualizerAPO EQ Preset: Channel: all Preamp: -7 dB Filter 5: ON PK Fc 30 Hz Gain 7 dB Q 1.41 Filter 6: ON PK Fc 70 Hz Gain -3 dB Q 2 Filter 8: ON PK Fc 1500 Hz Gain -5 dB Q 2 Filter 10: ON PK Fc 3500 Hz Gain 2.5 dB Q 1.41 Filter 11: ON PK Fc 10000 Hz Gain -3 dB Q 2 Filter 12: ON HS Fc 10000 Hz Gain -2 dB MiniDSP EARS HPN Compensated Measurements: https://imgur.com/bus7TCF
    1 point
  11. I agree with what has been said here, never too late to learn to use a soldering iron! That is really the hardest part since people who are way smarter than me have created great circuits that are free to use, you simply need to assemble it all. I technically did know how to use a soldering iron when I decided to start DIYing stuff about a year ago but my knowledge of everything about analog electronics were quite rudimentary, and I'm still in the same boat as jamesmking that I can't really make any circuits myself barring really simple stuff. After about 5 months of DIY I started the KGSSHV which was my first HV build and it went surprisingly smooth even with a so-so soldering iron and my general clumsiness. You really can save a lot of money and it is EXTREMELY rewarding to finish something you made yourself. Just be careful about high voltages like the others have said While I have no experience with audiophonics myself I know a few people who have liked what they bought from there (mostly chassis though).
    1 point
  12. ^ I didn't know about these measurements when I bought the L300 Limited. In fact, I thought they sounded fantastic without any EQ. ? Once I saw that ASR thread and applied the EQ corrections, I was more or less blown away, that how could I have liked the sound so much. The EQ reveals a 'hollowness' in the stock L300 Limited sound which is quite apparent in some songs, but not in all. Btw, I have mild tinnitus in one ear and some drops in hearing around 6KHz. Hearing problems is another great reason to apply EQ, but I haven't ventured in to that area yet myself. Regarding building the amp myself, Audiophonics seems to sell also DIY components. Any experiences with them around DIY projects? I have bought some devices from them without any problems.
    1 point
  13. I second the good iron.... I bought a cheap iron with crap thermal regulation and little thermal mass... so as soon as it touched a joint it would cool down. So I increased the amount of time the iron was in contact with the joint.... this increases the time the joint has to oxidize, the flux in the solder would all burn off and the joints were horrible. The solder would not stick to the oxidized joints and it was frustrating. Some years ago, I purchased a hakko fx888d and instantly my joints improved thanks to the good thermal regulation and thermal mass I only needed apply the heat for a short time. So, the flux built into the solder not run out before the was made and cooled. (There is a wealth of good information on you tube) I high recommend the eevblog I would also say a good desoldering station like a duratool d00627 makes like much easier. It has a built-in heater and vacuum pump. You place the tip over the joint, wait for the joint to melt, hit the trigger and the solder is gone. Its far easier and more reliable than trying to hear the tip with a soldering iron and use a spring loaded pump in your other hand, or using solder braid. It gives you the confidence that if you screw up (and I have multiple times) you can fix the mess easily and without lifting tracks off the pcb. Its so useful. I had a problem with the 400V- on my alpha centauri power supply. I figured it had to be one of the transistors, so I desoldered all of them on the -400V side tested each one found a transistor that had decided it was two back to back diodes, put all the other transistors back, replaced the bad transistor and had the psu up and running in half an hour.) I also second the good multimeter with input protection in all modes is also a must. I have this bad habbit of working on amps after work when im tired so I make mestakes... I managed to have my multimeter in ohms mode and tried to measure +400V.... I got a spark just before the probes touched the screw terminal. The psu went into current limit mode and the multimeter survived... a bit of a drama but no harm done. A cheap multimeter without input protection would probably have died. I have a brymen bm869s, its overkill for features and accuracy but its very robust . The brymen being abiused Regards and please consider DIY... James
    1 point
  14. I also have a BSc and MSc in computer science, but for the last few years I have been lecturing Cisco networking and computer network security rather than programming. If you have the time and the space, DIY is a lot cheaper than buying... My total cost for the blue hawaii build as less than 1/4 of the price I could buy one for new. Even second hand I probably could not afford to buy one. (OK the case will not look as nice and I did not go for a crazily expensive volume pot, but I could add one later). Apart from the satisfaction when its built and working, I know that in the future I can upgrade/modify/repair/service the amp. The blue hawaii is only my second high voltage DIY hifi build. (before this I built the hi-amp alpha centauri and have built a DC electronic load and a few other low voltage DIY projects). I didn’t hate electronics but I don’t "get it" the same way I "get" programming.: I can write programs from scratch in my head... I can't design more than a simple circuit full stop... although I am getting better at understanding and reverse engineering other people’s circuits and modifying them a little bit... The alpha build was tough, there where errors in the pcb, silk screen, component list, I killed a transistor adjusting the psu, the psu specs were marginal, as was the temperatures on the DC valve heater transistors. I think so few people built it that the information did not get debugged. It took some problem solving to get it working but it was a learning experience. In contrast the blue hawaii has been almost plain sailing. Enough people have built them that any errors seem to have been ironed out. The psu worked first time as did the right channel. The left channel hand one issue which I spotted with my magnified visor: a almost solder bridge which would arc at about 65V. Trivial to fix and the amp now works fine. My biggest issue with the Kevin Gilmore designs was getting my head around all the terminology used in the filename of the gerber files used for the PCB creation. I sent a few private messages to Kevin Gilmore and he was very helpful and responsive. To sum up I’m so glad I decided to go DIY, I have learnt a lot and the satisfaction outweighs the frustration when things go wrong.... (just dont ask me to confirm this when im in the middle of something being wrong ) regards and sorry for my rambling James
    1 point
  15. Hi all, a new user here. I got my first Stax set about a month ago and I have been really enjoying my L300 Limited + 252S combo. After getting these, all other headphones just don't sound right anymore. I guess this is the downsize of owning Stax? ? If I may, a couple of questions: - I haven't seen any amp measurements yet - are there any? It seems it's much trickier to measure Stax amps compared to normal headphone amps, but one would think it's still doable? - When reading for example this thread, there is suprisingly little discussion about applying EQ to Stax headphones. I applied EQ to my L300 Limited based on oratory1990 measurements and the result is phenomenal compared to no EQ. Is this the case or are you all using EQ with your Stax? - I audiotioned both the 252S and 353XBK amps and decided to buy the 252S since I heard no difference between them. Now after owning it for a while, I might have second thoughts... it looks and feels a bit whimsy. I would like to have a neutral sounding + measuring solid state amp, which would have to be smallish, since I use it on a desktop setup. Ideally it would be 21cm (or more) wide and not very deep like all the Stax amps, so that it would stack nicely with my RME ADI-2 DAC. And it should be black. ? Are there any other choices than the KGSS Klassik? (thanks spritzer for asnwering my email questions!) Thanks for all the help in advance!
    1 point
  16. Nah, it makes them sounds more exotic. Also encourages people to learn japanese.
    1 point
  17. The HE-1 meaty? Nahh... mosfet flabby sure but that's it... In other news, I just got a care package from Justin...
    1 point
  18. Well, STAX is owned by Edifer now, so worldwide IP can be “borrowed” (at least for marketing).
    1 point
  19. This time I won't be an early adopter. Maybe not even a later one, hopefully not a late one.
    1 point
  20. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trap_street
    1 point
  21. Thanks to the Wayback Machine the page is stored at https://web.archive.org/web/20171221234807/http://stax.co.jp/Export/History.html
    1 point
  22. "In Soviet Russia headphones listen to you!"
    1 point
  23. With any of our amps (have to put the caveat "when built properly" as I've seen people jumper the safety stuff) and the Stax ones the damage potential would be minimal. With the bias, sure it is 580V but it's based on a very current limited voltage doubler circuit plus the 4M7 high voltage ballast resistor on the output will prevent any damage. The amp section could deliver some real hurt though, +/-400V or upwards power supplies with the amplifiers being able to swing almost from rail to rail meaning you could see ~1500Vpp or more at one output. This plus generous class A biasing means there is a lot of power at play here, hence the 5.1K output resistors. If there would be a short to ground (i.e. you) they would take off the worst of it. Now look at Woo Audio, Cavalli plus other amps and these protection provisions are just not there.
    1 point
  24. The amp is only putting out about 20ma assuming a KG design, not to sure about stax. Even with all that voltage all you will get is an annoying zap. Just to give you an idea of how little current that is, 20ma is less than we normally use for temporary pacemakers in cardiac surgery and those leads go directly into the myocardium of the heart to regulate the beat. We typically use 50% higher voltage to start and go up from there..
    1 point
  25. orrrr you could wait, just wait for a bit, don't be a hero. wait until it's reach full maturity or everything become clearer or whatever. think like a pedophile case. if only they could wait, it would be okay i think
    1 point
  26. forum.doctorhead.ru and a few others.
    1 point
  27. have you guys check this one? https://www.head-fi.org/threads/perun-electrostatic-headphone-impressions.872273/ turned out it's a one grand headphone
    1 point
  28. The problem with these newcomer headphones is that they are always the "best" thing... until the next "version" comes along, where that one suddenly becomes so much better than the last one. Just look at how much time it took to progress from the LCD-2 (which was still not the first one from Audeze) to the LCD-4. It was about 6 years I think, and even with the latter there are still sample variations involved. So where does this stop? And I would like to add that our mind is very "clever" in that it can adjust relatively well to any "not-completely-crap" sound signature, so in the long-term there is always a better chance of becoming the "best" as opposed to just auditioning something else. So maybe the real question about the "best" is: "is there actually such a thing" and maybe the "current personal favourite" is a much better description.
    1 point
  29. I own a pilot prototype Libratum 2 that has been upgraded with v3 driver and new pads by Dima in the end of last year. Yes, they are kind of heavy, similar to the 009. The design is nice in the way that one can set the pressure of the headbands, but I don't like the esthetic of the headband design and the housing design (with the protruding screw heads). Also, the sliders are not very smooth to move. However, configurability is way better than any other headphone housing. They measure almost exactly like the Stax 009 except in the high mids and treble where the Libratum is more linear and smoother, slightly creamier but not slower. The sound of v3 is more dynamic and more fluid than the 009, about similar transparency and speed, no treble issues, about 6 dB lower sensitivity. The 009 is much higher execution quality, but my sample is basically a prototype in titanium like the one in the picture. The stock pads are of very high quality and comfortable but were not the optimal sounding ones. I modded a new pair of Stax 009 pads for them and it made a qualitative jump in realism and effortless dynamics. Driver stability is good so far (only 3 months though for v3). So far highly recommended. The Canorum 3 has similar sound character as the Libratum 3, with small differences, but harder to mod the pads. I liked both Phenomenon headphones more than the Perun, but the Perun held its ground well - they have a rather protruded midrange in a good sense, like old Sennheisers (but sound much better). I think many people will like them, I am not really among them, as I am sensitive to accentuated mids. I would choose nearly any non-bright Stax over them. BTW this (at lesser extent, paired with less bass) was the problem with the Libratum v2 driver + pads that Spritzer owned as well. If I understand right, new Phenomenon diaphragms are under development, plus some of the pilot feedback might be implemented as well, so Phenomenon will likely get even better with time. I am very much pleased how this exercise went so far. On the subjective part, I am prepared to be stoned, but I still say the Libratum 3 with the modded 009 pads are best transducers I have heard so far (including all major Stax models, and the old and new Orpheus). That's always a good experience :). They are also the only headphones that effortlessly beat my modded TH900 in the bass impact and depth department, without being overblown in the slightest way. Who thought that was possible. They are on a whole different level of resolving/playing music, bass included. Cello and saxophone are just more real and rich, wind instruments sound more natural, piano attack, sustain and decay have a lot of details, like one would slow down time during the playback and discover fluid texture details other headphones usually mask because they sound coarse. Even watching movies have a new dimension nowadays, since this level of dynamic resolution and bass transparency paired with effortless fluidity is simply not there in the movie theaters (this also applies to the 009+BHSE btw). Somehow even realistic rumble, rattle, after-waves and fine ripples of explosions come through, although not as physical but deeper and far more discerned than in theaters and that creates an effect like the sound just heard was more real and physical than it should be given the physical limitations of a headphone. This is an area the Libratum 3 bests even the Stax 009. Of course they still don't approach the sound of real instruments heard in a real concert hall, but nothing can. Longer term impressions might come later.
    1 point
  30. New stats flagship amp pricing looks not so fun.
    1 point
  31. I got today the Perun headphone and now i let it "run in" some hours. The looks is great,this is truly the electrostatic Grado very lightweight and comfortable.So far it's sounding very promising ,quite neutral with old Stax Omega 1 "touch" on it with similar soundstaging and imaging maybe with cleaner midrange.It's quite neutral and "naturally" detailed where i consider 009 to be neutral but unnaturally detailed.Perun has a very quite background and somebody may think it's dark sounding but it's not .I think Spritzer would like this phone:) a bit of old school Stax sound. First hour of listening says that we are dealing here with a world class sounding headphone for 1K :).The transaction from Russia to EU was smooth with great communication and zero problems . Update today:the midrange is likely the best i have heard from any stat before,it's huge,very musical,voices like female vocals are stunning,the sound is BIG / transparent but it isn't euphonic it remains still neutral and balanced.It has warmish tonality quite different overall than any Stax maybe towards HE-90 but it has it's own sound wich is very compelling.Was fiddling with the drivers and headband i don't know which way i should have to use them but tested vice versa and ended to find out that it has significant impact in sound quality how to use them.The sensitivity is close to Lambda models with means these are easy to drive.The structure is very comfortable / soft and very lightweight so you can spend many hours with them.Bass is on the level of better Lambdas and highs are smooth and detailed.Best sound level to drive these headphones are lower volume to average, i would not drive these phones on high levels ,these are best with classical/vocals ambient ECM jazz recordings.
    1 point
  32. Still no strain relief on the cables which is not great...
    1 point
  33. It's an Perun maker's view. Design conseption is very distinctive and pagan as Perun is old slavic 'God of thunder and lightning'. These headphones are totaly handmade of natural materials as ash tree, and natural skin (lambskin) etc. This design is antipode of modern 'eco-sh*t-leather' imitation and plastic parts.
    1 point
  34. It's KGBH SE (Analog Edition) made by Flux Lab Acoustics. http://fluxlab-acoustics.com/Products/18 I'm usin' it for my personal enjoyment with ES headphones.
    1 point
  35. If it passes the Spritzer test, it will have passed the hardest one. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. Let's decide a list of parcipients at other topic and with sending route and we will provide a free sapmle to respective community members.
    1 point
  38. https://www.head-fi.org/articles/terms-of-service.6725/#mot
    1 point
  39. Thanks, all. Feeling more relaxed about the entry point I've set up for myself. I'm an engineer (digital hardware verification), so I appreciate the dedication I see here from folks like Spritzer in picking apart the 727 and other products. Critical analysis is absolutely necessary to keep the pursuit of perfection ever-advancing; it's what ultimately enables us to appreciate every wrinkle and vein in the petals of those sonic flowers. :-P It doesn't bother me to hear that the amp I chose is imperfect; I happen to firmly believe that perfection isn't a state of being, but rather a target that forever remains on the horizon. It's helpful to have expert opinions of where the 727 might be lacking. I just wanted to make sure it's not a total lemon. Even the best companies will swing and miss once in a while. Pretty sure this setup is going to blow me away. I'm setting aside my anxieties and mentally compiling playlists. Can't wait for my first few steps into Stax-land. Maybe I'll pop back in and share some impressions when I get it all running. Cheers!
    1 point
  40. But I talked to Dan, and he said... This one time, at band camp, Dan said... etc. etc. It's impossible to critique Mr Speakers headphones online without people gushing about "Dan" as though he's a close personal friend and occasional sexual partner. It's all a bit odd.
    1 point
  41. Perun is already a quite old design ,my approach to this is to have no expectations at all,i make no prejudice against a new product by comparing it to other bad phones wich were presented in the past .I take Perun as a "fresh newcomer" on the market ,if it's shit then it's shit , but i make no estimates before i have heard it.As soon i get these phones i will report back.Phenomenon is already a good example of a excellent electrostatic design wich competes with the best.I'm not sure if this is true but i remember to read somewhere that the driver of Peruns are manufactured in Japan.
    1 point
  42. DIY Perun headphone has been around for about 10 years ,a DIY project, and this is the latest incarnation of it.I have followed the development of this phone on the russian forum for years and unfortunately the thread where it was introduced was deleted.This phone has gone through many stages and many prototypes ,even tens of different pads were tested.Every corner of this phone has been investigated to reach best possible performance.In it's latest version wich is the last and final version is comparable to the best stat phones around,many prefer these over Orpheus and SR-009.The driver is about 50% larger than 009 and is very efficient and easy to drive.This DIY project has gone commercial http://perun.prfi.ru/ I have ordered one and will test it soon and compare it to 009 and other Staxes.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for sharing all those experiences, I really enjoyed reading about e-stat DIY, but somehow didn't get the courage to get into it (and into making drivers in general). I have some background in speaker design, but using off the shelf drivers. There are a lot of people who can do them much better than I could and I have very little time to spare. It's interesting what you say about sensitivity and makes sense. Taking it forward, I would be willing to sacrifice a bit from the 009 sensitivity if that made easier for Stax to achieve a sound signature closer to the 007 Mk1 and original Omega - or even smoother. At the moment I am perfectly satisfied with the Libratum 3 that has nailed the sound signature between the 007 Mk1 and the 009 (well, with modified pads), sounding more musical than both to my ears, but that might change when new contenders arrive. If Stax has that superior knowledge level (and surely they have), I very much wish they would choose to make a smoother/warmer/fleshier/more relaxed sounding version of the 009, even is less sensitive - actually more or less what the Libratum 3 is -, but then with Stax quality and fame .
    1 point
  44. As much as I love making electrostatic headphones, I don't think that I will ever make them for money. I'm just too busy with my work, and I really prefer sharing my knowledge and encouraging people to try to build them by themselves. I am willing to share everything of my design with everyone. Just let me know if you're interested to build. By the way, making a pair of good sounding electrostatic headphones isn't that difficult, but to make them as efficient as Stax headphones is not so easy. Until MrSpeakers and Phenomenon can make their phones to sound as loud as Stax, I would say that they still have a lot to learn.
    1 point
  45. Looks like e-stats are getting new and new competition. Not bad per se. Of course a lot of sub-optimal designs may come out first, especially long-term durability may be an issue. The question - as always - is not as much how good they are now, but how fast will they improve (well, change). For instance, Phenomenon made a rather big jump in quality between membrane v2 (that AFAIK only Spritzer and I had) and v3 (I don't know who else than me has it). The v3 measures almost exactly as the 009 except in the upper mids/treble where it's smoother and sounds even better. Compared to v2, there is more bass impact and more relaxed sound. However, the designer hasn't stopped and has bold plans on what to do next. Looks like a complete driver redesign every few months or a year, while even v2 was very good (with different than stock pads). Quality of execution may not be as high as Stax, but there seems to be a lot of competence in chemistry and physics. Don't underestimate things for granted. Of course, also don't take things for granted. Nobody knows yet how durable these new products will be. I don't know anything about Perun, but I might be interested 2-3 iterations later... at least they compare it to the 009. Well, one area where the 009 is hard to catch is sensitivity: they sound much louder than MrSpeakers or Phenomenon. Even more so, I'd be interested in commercial headphones Wachara would make... Also, it would be nice to see a new Stax Omega range... not even a rumour out there?
    1 point
  46. I'll just leave this here https://www.head-fi.org/threads/electrostatic-headphones-perun.837230/
    1 point
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