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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/09/2020 in Posts

  1. The images this statement conjures up are just too distracting.
    5 points
  2. I swear that bird must have played a lot of laser tag.
    3 points
  3. In other related news... look what showed up from Japan: Its friends are still stranded in Japan, waiting on EMS service to resume...
    3 points
  4. It might be a little premature but I think I now have a working T2 using a modified version of joamat's staxt2nc3fdh7 amp files and kgsshv dc supplies.... Initial startup looks good. Channels started up seperately. Heater transformer running at full voltage. High voltage transformer on a variac. virtual batteries within 100mV of 740V before any adjustment. DC balance between + and - sides of a channel <1V without any adjustment, all 3 leds lit on both channels. once my hands stop shaking I will take a few photos... I have been dreading switch on... in the meantime here's a few build photos of a finished amp channel top and bottom, the amp and psu I modified the delay circuit on one of the psu boards to use a relay instead of the now unavailable solid state relay. I modified the amp boards so that 1. they fit into a 400mm deep chassis, hifi 2000 dissipante chassis. 2. they have screw terminals for all connectors on the top.. (less neat but easier for testing and rebuilding) 3. all resistors of 1W or more go on the top of the pcb with a drill hole under for increased airflow 4. groundpane is between 1.1mm and 1.3mm from any solder point 5. pcb is cut in half so each channel can be built, tested and mounted independently, 6. solder points for pot and input jacks removed and replaced with screw terminals. 7. silkscreen has instructions for adjustment of pots 8. mpsw06 transistors replaced with mpsa06 9. small standalone heatsink for Q34 FJPF2145 in the 20mA current source darlington pair has drill holes in the pcb by the fins for enhanced airflow. 10 all components have schematic numbers included in the silkscreen 11 leds and adjustment pots mounted on top side of pcb like the original T2 12 removed the bias input and 5.1M resistor (since the kgsshv psu already has the resistor in the bias section) I will be happy to release the gerber files of my modification once I am certain the amp is reliable For the build: wima film capacitors, mixture of koa cm1/2 and xicon 273 series 1/2W resistors, for higher wattage vishay pr02 and pr03 All resistors, diodes, zeners raised from the pcb. pcb 2mm with 2oz traces. All 1/2W resistors matched to 0.1% or better at 1khz on a good LCR meter between + and - sections of an amp board AND between left and right channels. all non psu and psu decoupling caps matched to better than 1% at 1KHz on a LCR meter between + and - sections of an amp channel AND between left and right channels. (except for the pF caps which are just too small to measure accurately). all leds and mpsa06 transistors matched on a dca75 curve tracer between + and - sections of an amp board AND between left and right channels. all zener diodes matched to within 1% or better between + and - sections of an amp board AND between left and right channels. separate umbilical cords for AC heater power and DC voltages all internal wiring 1KV silicon all signal wires will be cardas chassis wire volume pot tkd 2500 series left to do install rca signal wiring, volume pot and stax output socket test with signal generator and measure distortion etc collapse from T2 build anxiety drill top of case for valve sockets clean up wiring pray to the god(s) of electronics sort out grounds on psu post moar pictures Here is the schematic for the staxt2nc3fdh7 NOTE this is my reverse engineer based on the pcb and the original T2 schematic and has not been checked by anyone. ( as far as possible component labels reflect the original T2 component labels. In the case of 2 components replacing a single component in the original T2 the components are now labeled Xpt1 and Xp2. In the case of additional components no present in the original T2 they start with the number 9XX. In addition both batteries are shown and the the components labeled with a Xp for the O+ side battery and Xn for the O- side battery. Note the 140K resistors in the virtual batteries dissipate 0.423W each and I found xicon 1/2W 273 series discoloured and drifted by about 1% after about 6 months heavy use when placed on the underside of the pcb. So you may want to think about 1W resistors or place the resistor on the top side of the pcb. psu low voltage, bias, +500V -500V and hv delay reverse engineered from pcb and original schematic. not checked by anyone. psu +250V, -260V and -560V reverse engineered from original schematic and pcb not checked Note psu schematics changed 22/08/2022. Thank you to Rinat for spotting an error on the current path around the 3900pF cap.
    3 points
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
  7. Funny how phone cameras auto-white balances the orange mostly away. No evidence!
    1 point
  8. This one came to an end this week as I finally got round to turning the amp on and testing it. Busy summer and all that but here is what this should have been in the first place: Old school KGSSHV build only using the input sockets on the back, that swanky gold IEC and the volume control. The rest was all garbage...
    1 point
  9. Did I miss the memo? Did we somehow run afoul of the curse of the pharaohs or trigger the plagues of Egypt? The sky here is orange this morning. I've never seen anything like this. It looks like planet Arrakis from Dune. The spice must flow!
    1 point
  10. For future reference, most taxi drivers carry a Slim Jim. As long as you can provide proof of ownership, they'll unlock your car for a nominal fee. Almost always cheaper than a locksmith. Cops will generally do it free, but on their time frame. I have always been a fan of carrying an extra door key in my wallet.
    1 point
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  13. I thought the kookaburra impersonation was impressive too!
    1 point
  14. Thanks and they look good. For others searching, although it’s a little out of date, Wirecutter has a breakdown of models capabilities. So many do nots. https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-usb-c-cables/
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. For "plain" USB-C cables, I like the Anker Powerline (in general, their cables seem to be pretty decent for aftermarket). If you're going to need a Thunderbolt connection or will need to charge a MacBook, you'll want to opt for a higher-rated cable.
    1 point
  17. Well, that ended up being a lot less painful than I thought. I started the day thinking I was going to buy memory foam but I ended up hating them. I bought the Natural Mattress Stretch recommended. The latex just felt right immediately compared to the 7-8 different brands/types I tried. It was towards the reasonable end of what I had budgeted for too so that didn’t hurt either. Shout out to the tall man. I would never have heard of the company/brand if you hadn’t brought it up in this thread. I also decided to make the switch from queen to cal king. I’ve had a queen since I first started grad school 13 years ago and while that size is fine the extra foot of width in the Cal King will have plenty of space for a future Mrs. TMoney.
    1 point
  18. My weight is responsible for a great many things. We also have different models, I believe (mattresses, not partners).
    1 point
  19. Happy birthday!🎊🎉🎁🎂🎈 (party favour noise)
    1 point
  20. Have a great one Jimmy! Cheers
    1 point
  21. 120 is the new 30. Happy birthday day.
    1 point
  22. Happy 120th(!?) birthday!
    1 point
  23. The current crew. Rufus (black)runs things. Hugo Z Hackenbush (Maine Coon) is the baby and gets into just about everything. Molly (brown tabby) stays out their way
    1 point
  24. Listening now. I actually like it. I would typically assume a Dusty recommendation comes with vampire squirrels and random beep boops out of tune and timing.
    1 point
  25. This weekend I flew down to Bangkok to meet the man himself, Wachara. For me the the entire RR1 Project was a dream - to develop a fully in-house Headphone with Bespoke parts specific to the Headphone and to meet my Heroes along the way. RR1 has enabled me to meet some of the greatest people in the Industry worldwide and that's the only success I see in the Headphone. Everything else to me is irrelevant. With Wachara, I've met all the Heroes I wanted to meet and that ends the RR1 chapter for me. Kaldas was named after my Grandfather and our goal with the company has always been quite diverse. We started the Headphone project knowing we would be in financial turmoil by the end of it and that is indeed, the truth. I will be managing our Headphone division not for long now, as we expand our production and settle the Manufacturing, the responsibilities will be handed over to one of my longest serving Engineer who was instrumental in the RR1 development. I will divert my attention to some of my other dreams. Thank you to everyone whom I've met along the way. Those memories will serve me well for a long time. Where it all started for me. Visiting G.R.A.S. in Denmark Meeting Birgir in Iceland At Audeze HQ in Los Angeles Klippel in Dresden And finally.
    1 point
  26. I'm in for the latter, one of the few to get the honor of my ignore list here. I can only take a certain amount of inane ramblings... Now some impressions, system has changed a bit since last time as I got a Denafrips Terminator DAC plus it is now fed by a Kimber KS-2436 silver USB cable...not that it matters and I only got it to prove that point but it's there. Amp is a stock Carbon which does look rather nice with the black aluminum Stax plug on these. They are certainly even more inefficient than the 007's but the Carbon drives them with ease. In fact I'm not even at 12 o'clock so I could easily drive them into arc'ing if I wanted to pull a Ray on this. Other aspects are just fine though, even though I can't stand the earpads the fit is just fine and the headband might work for those with silly large heads. The cutouts in the leather might bother those though without a full head of hair. The drivers are dead silent with no music playing so no dust migration issues. Anyway, I first tried them bone stock and initial impressions were ok. Not great but I first thought "at least they don't do anything seriously wrong", I just pressed random on the playlist and some Thompson Twins came up which was a lucky stroke for them. As soon as something else came up I noticed they just sound odd, the top end is both muffled and peaky at the same time, the midrange sounds distant and hollow and the bass has a very pronounced resonant frequency but limited extension. The soundstage is vague and diffused compared to the better units but far from as bad as say the HE90's. Next step was to remove those foam pads from inside the drivers. Now they are 5mm and not 4mm as I stated before (eyeballing while lifting up one end vs. actually measuring) and super dense. This is nothing like the open cell stuff Stax used in most models from 1977, that presents limited to no restriction on the sound while this foam... it barely lets any light through it so impact on the sound is huge. I'm a bit baffled why anybody would add this as removing it does wonders to the sound. Now where to start, everything is improved and much of the weird sound is gone. The top end is a still peaky and uneven (so much so that I need to turn down the volume often) but far more open. Same goes for the bass, that annoying "thump" is all but gone and the response is flatter and more natural. Extension is still limited compared a properly setup set of 007's but perfectly adequate. There is some of the same uneven bass response as the 009's and 009S's as they have problems with the same test tracks but I can live with it. Now for the all important midrange, yeah you guessed it, more open and "there" right in front of you. Now the soundstage is a bit lost and lacks the layering and depth of the 007's but compared to most out there, perfectly fine. There is still some reverb clearly audible but swapping out the pads should take care of that but we will know for sure soon. So the bottom line is, if you own one of these, remove the fucking foam!! This is a discussion we've been having for decades with the HD580 and all the successors so yeah... adding damping like that is about as retarded as the whole sorbothane BS. Don't try to tune electrostatics like this, it will never work. Change the earpads, change the distance of the drivers to the ears, change how the drivers are built but never, ever throw some foam on there and think you did a good job. Fucking pathetic.... Anyway, sorry for the rant but this bothers me so much as it is just so lazy. Now next step will be to swap out the earpads and I want to stick with something anybody can get so none of my custom made pads are eligible. This might take a while as I need to take stock and see what I currently have...
    1 point
  27. RIP Gary Peacock, another jazz great lost. https://www.npr.org/2020/09/07/910054995/gary-peacock-a-jazz-bassist-always-ahead-of-his-time-dies-at-85
    0 points
  28. I heard about this. Really a shame and kills a wonderful DIY spirit here.
    0 points
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