Leaderboard

Same as every gay bar I've ever entered.

Calling for 6-9" here. Good luck to everyone in the northeast!

Based on my experience, that threshold can be built with only a measly $17k in tool investments. Make sure you buy every accessory as well and the full Woodpecker catalog so everything comes out straight. Easy. 😁

8-12" here, snow blower is gassed up, so is the generator, and there's bacon in the fridge.

Personally I think this is very easily accomplished on a table saw. I would think that it could be cut and ready for sanding in less than an hour. But then again I have no experience with computer controlled milling.

I'm with Doug, there's no good or easy way to do this with CNC and it's definitely not required. I drew this up in CAD real quick just to rough out some of the missing dimensions (thickness, heal and toe angles) and I think you could make this out of a single piece of rough sawn lumber. I'll defer final species recommendations to others but finding 6" wide 5/4 oak might not be a bad place to start and not horribly expensive. To me the hardest part is figuring out how to do the bevel on the heal - best thought there is with a router after using a dado blade to hog out the underside. But with a finished thickness of ~6mm (1/4") it's going to want to flex/deflect. I'd have to play around with it in real life to figure out any better solution. About the CNC solution - the real challenge is the two-sided nature and true 3D requirement. A lot of machines and affordable software are really good at 2.5D (translation in purely the vertical when cutting in the Z direction) but struggle when it comes to shapes like what you have described in your image. Also, some quick Googling yielded results very near what you are asking for - No Endorsement Implied - a more focused search would likely yield better results. Me - I'm working on fixing my Jonokuchi which had developed a problem with one channel. I opened the chassis hoping to easily spot the problem and did. Two caps in serious distress (one blown) and two resistors torched and failed open. Replacement parts ordered last night due to be delivered tomorrow which will likely get deferred to Friday but hopefully repairs can be accomplished this weekend. I've spoken with Pete and we don't think there's likely anything else at play other than one of the resistors drifting driving current and voltage up in an escalating fashion that resulted in the cap expelling its magic fluid filling.

You really joined 10 years ago and this is your first post? Opamp reviews on some random dac? What the fuck is that?

I agree with Steve. This is easy on conventional tools. I also think it is really difficult on a CNC. My concern is how thin it is. Most wood will warp.

Happy birthday, man!

Here on ”test bench” or floor. Output board on heat sink powered by the box to the right containing two Mean Wells 2*24V/15A. Driver board is powered by AMB dual sigma set at 15V. Upper DMM shows 0.166V cross one of the 0.47 ohm power resistor. 65.5 on the other meter is temperature in Celsius, prob has a special hole in the heat sink. I’ve run this at higher current… 95 degree Celsius - not got good for wooden floor. Sound quality – interesting. Try a balanced version. Two output boards on one (bigger) heat sink…

Happy Birthday you nerd.

he didn't come back between those 2 visits

HV and LV wiring is now in place: Next up is input and output wiring.

Progress is slow during the week, but thanks to home office I can get some soldering done over the lunch break. For connecting the HV and LV PSUs and the amp boards I'm going with a star ground, held in place by wire wrap and soaked with solder: Here's how the manifold looks like in circuit: There's good clearance too: Although the currents are substantially lower than what I'm used to from solid state, I took care to have equal lengths of fat wire for each of the HV and each of the LV supplies. I hope the grounding scheme is going to be quiet, I passionately hate ground related hum.

Dead easy if you make it from two pieces. Make the join a feature with a row of really nice countersunk brass screws. Make it from two contrasting woods. Or, if you want to hone your traditional skills, contrasting woods dovetailed together. Or a finger joint. You also need tough woods given this thing is going to get walked on and scuffed. So for contrasting tough wearing woods that won't warp - hornbeam for the flat bit and iroko for the vertical bit. Nicely contrasting too,

So far only been connected to power supplies. Have had a couple of long nights in kitchen.

Can you really call it an intro if it takes up an entire side of an album? I've not heard this extended mix, but I've been a huge fan of Soft Cell since the early 80's. My Father hated it when I'd play 'Sex Dwarf' at a high volume. I had a dance completely coriographed to 'Tainted Love'. Hmmm, I just realized that maybe I wasn't as straight appearing as I thought I was.

I would finish with Wilsonart or if you really want to paint something on, Duratex or ExoHyde. This is a Duratex I did on my theater speakers. Incredibly easy to roll on in one or two coats.

As most things Kreg, they're well thought out.

Nice job Marc! I'm now done with my latest project. Building two turntable stands back to back, I learned a few things. One, was that I'd like a second shelf above the record storage shelf, accomplished. Two, is that I'd like some kind of stop to keep the records from pushing in too far on the shelf, accomplished. I used Amber shellac on the base to try to get that golden tone of the Burled Maple top of the Colossus. Worked well, and it also provides a complimentary warm tone next to the Cherry of the Parasound tower and speakers. I also like the dark top with the Colossus.

Finished the front panels on my phono pre. Nevermind Stephen “Bishop”’s creepy photobomb ...

The replacement input jacks for my Fluke dmm finally showed up. When I desoldered the old ones, I found something that wasn't as it should be, and perfectly explained the problems I'd been having with the meter. A $20 part this time, and another piece of test equipment is back in working order.

Goddammit Brent, this is why we can't have nice things.

It seems quite obvious to me what happened. Brent must have put biscuits in the oven, which started the Earth's magnetic field to shudder, but then he started grooming that enormous head, lost all track of time, and the biscuits burnt, rendering them not worthy of consumption. Therefore the Earth's magnetic field returned to normal. Elementary really.

Finally got around to installing the replacement IEC inlet / EMI filter on my spectrum analyzer. Hit the power button and it powered up as it should, thank satan. Then I ran a signal into it and the results were a bit... strange. It displayed the frequency way offset from what it should be, and there was some weirdness in what was displayed, and the problem was the same on both inputs. So I went into the self-test menu and most stuff was fine, but every test for the digital filter board errored out. Oh dear. It seemed fine and reseating it didn't accomplish anything, so I spent the next couple hours with the service manual, checking voltages, clock signals, data lines, etc. Everything seemed to check out fine. Everything suggested it should be working. I decided on a whim to run the self-test again, and... it worked? Hooked it back up to a signal, and... it's fine now? Wat. I dunno what the actual problem was, maybe one of the other boards I pulled in the process of checking things needed to be reseated, maybe it just needed to warm up for a while longer to shake off the cobwebs, who knows. All I know is it's finally working again, and all it took was a $16 part, so I'm happy.