Leaderboard

Done some soldering exercise today. This small board contains 100 x 0402 10K resistors. Hand soldered with a Weller station, XNT-H tip and 0.3 mm solder wire. A few of the resistors are not flat to the board but I think they are acceptable soldered. Looking at your board, Kerry, there seems to be some really nasty things. Any chance for part numbers? I have to convince myself that the best way is to pay for a prepopulated board…

Greenlit by Peter Jackson!

Elizabeth Taylor, 1957, Kodachrome

Thanks. I think I'll pick one up. I've had the amp playing from 9:00 this morning (did I mention it really sounds great ) and batteries were down to 9.8V at 3:20PM. They are not perfectly balanced so one battery is at 3.1V which is below the minimum 3.3V recommended. So looks like I'm getting a little over six hours with these batteries (3x2000mAH). I can look for larger batteries and also play with some optimizations. I've also been running additional 5V and 3.3V supplies for the DAC that consume extra power. They're not needed for just the analog input. The balancer should have kicked in to turn off the battery pack, but it didn't. I suppose it would have at some point, but I plugged it back in to charge. I have a different and smaller balancer that I'm going to try. Maybe that will do a better job.

Hi! i would like to share my work with you. I made an dynalo amp powered by grlv power supply and a pcm1794a/cm6631a dac. Everything is totaly made by me. I also designed the pcb nd ordered it from JLCPCB. Amp offset voltage stays at max +-1mV and it is totally silent. Case is DOUK AUDIO. pictures: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1a6cbGFpN6s5EadR8DA_lb21ZFwOwzK4R?usp=sharing

An international crime drama, based on a true story, most of which takes place in the 70's. 8 episodes on Netflix and definitely worth the watch IMO.

Thanks, @jamesmking - very helpful. I've read this entire thread and there are 3 updates to the version .45 board (see file names including the version on the silkscreen, in the snip below): For context, the descriptions Kevin uploaded with each: version 0.46 "rflip" because soren is running the grlv supply at 4.5 amperes, here is a new version with the feedback resistor locations flipped so that the sense is not one inch away from the output connector. sense is now tied directly to the inner power supply connector. So the 20mv change in voltage due to current should be completely canceled out. for higher currents, best if the board is made with 3 oz copper. version 0.47 "rflip to220" here is the version with the to220 sic diodes, someone really needs to check this version 0.48 "largecap" same size board, up to 35mm caps, had to move the pass transistors, needs checking silicon carbide rectifiers 100mm x 109mm I think @Pars mentioned the v0.48 is basically the v.45(?) with fatter, shorter (?) caps for when height is a constraint - is that correct? ******* My questions - (1.) are these all improvements (is version 0.48 the best in all use cases?) or are each of versions 0.46-0.48 just tweaks for specific use cases ? (2.) Which board is best suited to (a.) power the SS Dynalo (mk2 "multiamp"); and (b.) power balanced CFA boards (i.e. 2x CFA2 or 1x CFA3? Many thanks as always for the guidance! (For context - I'm trying to pull the trigger once on a PCB order, so trying to figure out the right versions of all the boards I need to avoid multiple shipping charges... i.e. GRLV, Dynalo, CFA2 or CFA3, etc.)

Rogue-likes and procedurally generated game levels have been an increasing trend in the games business. The promise of saving a ton of developer time and expense and having the computer generate "infinitely repayable" content is an alluring one. It is a trend I hate. Computer generated content can be helpful as a template, but the difference between hand-crafted content and procedurally generated stuff is often not subtle. The Hitman series is in many ways at the extreme opposite end of the spectrum from Rogue-likes, and I love that about it. Everything in these three games is so obviously hand-crafted and polished to a fine sheen. While the content is less repayable once you've consumed it, I'd rather have less of something great than an infinite amount of "meh" when it comes to how I spend my leisure time. Hitman is one of my top 10 favorite games. I've been having a ton of fun with it. Best pitch I can give is that it is like being able to play "Groundhog Day" only you role-play as a James Bond-level super assassin in exotic locales instead of a washed-up weatherman in Punxsutawney, PA.

GR78xx and gr79xx are surface mount versions of the golden reference LV without the input or output smoothing capacitors. In general the golden reference LV come in dual (both positive and negative supplies on one pcb) or separate plus and minus pcbs. The gerbers can be found at: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_iJFfZStuVhSE5nOHBVdTByR1k the latest dual golden reference that I know about is goldenreference6D.zip this is marked on the pcb as version 0.45: the dual output board has provision for 25mm diameter input smoothing cap and optional output on led. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6JqIzEX9jZ0LTQ4ZG9HTDE2U0k/view?usp=sharing the individual rail pcbs are goldenreference6minus.zip and goldenreference6plus.zip: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6JqIzEX9jZ0ejFrM2lQZnFMa0U/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6JqIzEX9jZ0R1NpaDNuSzl4NHM/view?usp=sharing there is a goldenreference7plus.zip and minus but the pcb markings for them say 0.43 and do not have an option for a led showing the output is on, however the board allows for a larger diameter input smoothing cap at ~35mm diameter. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6JqIzEX9jZ0UFRaQzJSd1UwOTQ/view?usp=sharing and https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6JqIzEX9jZ0YksyazZ0QXZ5djg/view?usp=sharing

Got home from vacation very late last night/early this morning. Decided to enjoy the one nice day for the next several.

Some more good progress. The amp is up and running I've got two issues on the board, but the amp, power supplies and USB-C PD / battery management are all working great. The wires going to the pot are temporary. There'll be a board for the analog/DAC inputs. The PD chips are small with lots of pins on them. I'm surprised I could solder them Lots of 0402 chips on the right side of the board... Here's the amp running with the battery (I need to have the input board done before I can put the batteries in the chassis). This is with the amp running and USB-C charger plugged in. Below, it is sending .18A to the batteries. The battery management will stop charging once the batteries are at about 12.5V. It drops the current as it gets closer to a full charge. With the charger plugged in and batteries fully charged, it doesn't draw any power from the batteries. At the moment, it negotiated 5V from the charger (source) and is boosting it to just above the battery voltage. If we wanted, we could source power so it could charge you phone too. I'll do a drawdown test tomorrow to see how long it will run on a charge. Overall, I'm very please with this amp. Kevin's amp design is fantastic. I've been listening to it for the last several hours with my SR-007's

Here are some photos of a recent Bespoke unit we delivered -