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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/23/2022 in all areas
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4 points
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I keep telling you they were nunchucks. They just happened to be shaped like penises. They were tethered together by a cord. How could they possibly be sex toys? Oh, wait, now I see it.3 points
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Test Tone @ Home live right now: https://mixlr.com/illuminator/2 points
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New Somali Yacht Club -- shoegaze-y stoner New Spiritualized -- psych/art rock1 point
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Threw together a little stand for the magic side table that is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Need to take the flush trim bit around the edges as I did a lazy glue up on the lamination. The Rockler stands are certainly not the easiest to get square, but seem good enough to support the magic side table, I hope. Having the drawers/shelves will certainly help. Going to run shop vac up to a spring hook in the ceiling to give me dust collection of I can make it work.1 point
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And Then Comes The Night Mats Eilertsen, Harmen Fraanje, Thomas Strønen 2019 https://album.link/i/1445671064 Example:1 point
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No pics, but Al, Claire, Alden, Dorothy and I tried out the new West County Pub last night. It's the former Iron Springs Brewery, that was bought by Henhouse Brewery. A very limited menu, but the $20 burger was pretty yummy. Fries are extra, but also very tasty. For me though the real star was the $9 strawberry bread pudding. I'm a bread pudding conaseur for sure, and this was one of my faves so far.1 point
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Nearly finished casing my Salas phono stage. Need to mount the transformer and raw PSU. I may use a vandal switch on the front, but some type of momentary switch board or at a minimum, a voltage select board will be going in as well. Also need to shorten transformer leads, and clean up wiring. Runs dead quiet in my system; no noise evident when turned up all the way at tweeters or via headphones. I've got the Antek steel transformer cover and a set of Mundorf Supreme caps, though the kids all seem to be going for the Clarity Caps these days. It sounds good with the BC polyprop and MKP1837 I have in there now. This is setup for MM at 42dB gain. Loading switchable to several different values via dip switches. Set at ~34K right now for the Ortofon 2M Bronze I was using (a bright cartridge IMO).1 point
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We’re launching a new company – Eksonic – along with our new amplifier called Aeras. Launching an audio company is something I’ve had in the back of my head for many years and I’m proud to be able to bring a passion to market. I've been building my own version of the DIY T2 for quite some time now and have long hoped to capture the spirit of the beast in a smaller single chassis design that's more accessible to many. We think we've accomplished that with the Aeras. Aeras is the result of endless hours of circuit design and analysis, brainstorming and many iterations of prototyping and testing. Our initial users have had great things to say about this new amp. We’re going to be launching the company formally at the NYC CanJam later this month. We’ll bring our DIY T2 along with the Aeras so people can hear them side by side. I hope to see some of you at the launch1 point
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Some people have been asking for specs on the Aeras, so here they are... Input: XLR – Accepts balanced or single-ended (with grounded RCA to XLR cable) Input Impedance: 50K x2 Gain: 1000x Frequency Response: 1Hz – 60KHz Max P-P Voltage: 1500VAC Max RMS Voltage: 1000VAC Output: Stax Pro-Bias x1 Vacuum Tubes: 6S4A x4 Power Consumption: 100W External Dimensions: 19 cm x 34.3 cm x 14.2 cm (7.5” x 13.5” x 5.6”) – W x D x H Weight: 5.5 Kg (12 lbs) Mains AC: 115/230VAC Switchable1 point
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there are many possibilities: for the power supplies first you need to decide if you want to heat the valves up before you apply high voltage. If you do then there are two options. Do you want to implement the delay using a relay (and either switching the ac input to the high voltage transformer or dc output of the high voltage psus) or apply a dc voltage to switch on the high voltage psus? IF you do not want high voltage delay or want to do the entire delay e.g. by timed relay off the psu board then use the golden reference 1.7 series psus if you want to switch on the hv psu by providing timed dc then use the golden reference 1.8 boards. next you need 3 hv rails - two positive (220V and 400V) and one negative (-460V). So you need to look at the options. golden reference Dual boards have a positive and negative rail, headphones bias and a simple low voltages + and - rail on one pcb but are of course wider than a single rail board. or you could go for three single rail separate golden reference boards. boards with left in their name have a negative rail and simple low voltage supplies. boards with right in their name have a positive hv rail and the 580V headphones bias. See https://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/15634-goldenreference-high-voltage-power-supply-grhv/#comment-851207 for board physical sizes. Next for an over kill design you may want to have a high performance low voltage section using a golden reference LV board instead of the basic low voltage section provided on the golden reference hv boards. The low voltage provides power to the dc servo, balance servo and cathodes of the 6922s that the input signal goes into for the delay board you can use https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r3g2TAtBUaBdiMorTWX7yYgeJ7maQbYW or use what I use which is taken from a German website: schematic: http://www.high-amp.de/html/reg_pws_v3_add_on_schematics.html gerbers etc http://www.high-amp.de/powersupply_stabil_add_on.rar NOTE the hi amp delay board also provides a dc 6.3V supply capable of powering the 6922s but then requires 2 windings of about 8VAC rms as its input. Or you can just not implement the circuit for the 6Vdc heater supply and run the delay timer and relay off a single 6.6VAC winding without issue - which is what I do (see bellow). If you only implement the delay from the high amp board this is the schematic of what you need: Here is my build with a golden reference HV 1.7 dual and golden reference 1.7 right (modified by me to remove the bias components), and a golden reference lv (the delay board is in the psu box with transformers.). The delay board I designed myself based upon the delay circuit from high-amp. It runs off one of the 6922 heaters and is modified so it switches all three outputs of the HV transformer - which is why there are two relays. It also provides screw terminals so you can attach dropper resistors if your heater voltages are two high. (I like to run the heaters 6922s at 6VAC rms). The delay board I made also provides dc power for the led in the on off switch. Removing the fuse allows you to power up the heaters and low voltages only. The standard hi amp delay board only provides a single relay which can be used to switch the AC input to the high voltage transformer. This mandates the use of two transformers - one for the low voltages, heaters and delay board power and a separate one for the high voltages. My board switches the outputs of the HV transformer and so could be used with a single transformer setup or dual transformers. It also provides terminals for all voltages going to the amp. (I have a build policy that all pcbs and major components e.g. transformers should be removable for servicing with zero disordering - hence the screw terminals added to the delay board.) here is the gerbers for my dual relay pcb with screw terminals: mini t2 delay with screw terminals.zip here are the gerbers for the dual delay with no extra screw terminals for the other voltages: mini t2 dual relay delay no screw terminals.zip1 point
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An FG502 will do the lot, including sweep (you need to put a sweep signal up the VCF input). It goes from 0.1Hz to 11MHz, square, triangle, sine. http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/FG502 . Ebay has one 252934875917 for $25 with no bids yet. To make it work, you need a TM5xx power frame, like the TM501 122498573980 currently $49.99 with no bids yet. Or a TM503 with three slots (so you have some expansion space for other units (eg the RG501 ramp generator to complement the VCF sweep of the FG502) 361964662469 for $40 with no bids yet.1 point
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Bought the CNC directly from the manufacturer, assuming they would just send along the freebies with the package so they do not have to go through the hassle of another shipment. Nope, I have to register the CNC with them first, and I cannot register it until it is built because all serial numbers are hidden within the controller for some reason.0 points