Les_Garten
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Posts posted by Les_Garten
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Soft tip might be the reason you had such an easy time with the fit, since the JHxx are just acrylic.
All my others for the last 20+ years have been hard acrylic. The soft one seals like the hard ones.
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i dont mean to undermine your efforts but i think all the refits might have to do with the initial cost of the thing itself - i certainly dont have $1k to throw around on something that i have a nagging feeling will produce better results with a refit. also, i dont know if you listen to your bluetooth headset as carefully as your "music" toys. i might be wrong but i fear critical or careful listening would be beyond the scope of a bluetooth headset.
Actually my BT headset fits perfectly. It's the first soft one I've had. Since 1988, I've spent about 8-12 hours a day with one in my ear listening to people's hearts, does that count? Mine were connected to esophageal stethoscopes.
n.b. If you haven't used a mold on a BT headset, you haven't lived yet. I went from Vol all the way up to all the way down. The isolation is perfect.
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I had Avery sound do my custom earpiece for my Bluetooth Headset and I did the mold myself and sent it to them. Not exactly Rocket Science here. I've had custom molds made since the late eighties, never with any not working correctly, still have them. Not sure why all the re-do's here. I'm close enough to JH to have them done there when I pull the pin on that idea.
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At least their name is honest.
Kinda like the ZERO DAC, ehhh?
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Those are kinda cute aren't they?
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Actually i have a 100 oz silver bar that would be perfect, just need a few more.
Heh, don't we all!
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The problem with internet postage (i have a suitable printer) especially with stuff going outside the country
which all 4 of these did, is all the customs forms, and the weight. I know my scale is accurate, as it matches
the one at work, and the package really is 39.5 lbs. But i got lucky and got the really messed up scale at
usps which weighed the packages at 33 and 35 lbs (they are absolutely identical in contents) and therefore
saved a few bucks. So now in total (not counting gas) but counting everything else including bubbles
and the packaging for the boards, i'm down to a loss of a little less than $8.
Fedex seems to be in the other direction. Their scale always weighs over the real weight. I wonder
if that is deliberate. At least fedex inside the usa is going to be only about $40 instead of the package
to Australia which was $235. And fedex international is way out of line price wise. Birgirs package
was even higher priced.
Would be amusing if you whipped out a reference weight next time you ran into one of these discrepancies...
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Perhaps they were secretly bought by Peugeot?
I'm not sure that would be positive...
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What size is your "quill"?
Anyhow...
Yes, there is a difference but it may be better to go with a cheaper one until you learn to stop beating on it with a hammer.
LOL, I think I've learned that! The quill is a MT3.
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No set screw. Just machine taper fit. I was looking over Enco tools site and they have a fork for it.
My arbor is a MT3 - JT4 and the chuck is a 3/4" chuck
Is there a big difference in good quality arbors and chucks like this Albrecht for instance:
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies
This is a smaller overall chuck but goes down to a smaller minimum.
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Thanx for the Wiki ref on Tapers!
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Nate, if I were to get a keyless chuck in the future, would I just buy an arbor with it and remove the current chuck with the arbor? There is a slot up in the quill to push a fork/wedge in there to dislodge the arbor, not sure how I would get a chuck off. Heat maybe?
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Yep, that's it exactly I think. Not sure about the taper sizes, but it's like that one.
Looks like the combo of heating in the Oven and the freeze cycle has worked. Been cuttin' holes this afternoon! It swung that 5 1/4" hole saw without breaking a sweat.
Any of you guys use the keyless chucks on a Larger type press? If so, do you like them?
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Boy we're havin' FUN Now!
So got my nice 5 1/4" hole saw in da' mail.
Bolted 'er up and let her rip! Literally.
Then the Chuck dropped off, new problem as it were...
So the arbor, I guess that's what it's called, is tapered on both ends. Never seen one before, so I'm in a learnin' phase here.
My first problem was the arbor was dropping out of the quill. Froze the arbor last night for about 3 hours. Then pressed it together and tried it today. Now the chuck drops off, most likely becasue of the freeze job from last night!
Today, Chuck goes in the oven at 400 degrees fro maybe 30 mins and press back on the arbor and let cool.
I cleaned the arbor and chuck real well with carb cleaner. If felt light it had a thin layer of Cosmoline on both surfaces.
This is slowing down my hole cuttin'!
p.s. no takin' it back. A Craigslist special! Looks like it has never been used, and I would be happy as a clam if the pieces would quit falling off! All the surfaces look perfect on the Quill receiver, arbor, and chuck.
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If you get the large step bit, I would be curious to hear if you like it. I don't particularly like my larger bit, my Irwin, which goes up to 1/2" is nice, but my 1-1/8th jerks fairly strongly as it makes a step, which leaves me with a less clean hole than would be ideal. Also, the spindle on my (craftsman) drill press seemed like it should be loose when I first installed bit, but like Nate, the belt will slip before it does now.
Mine doesn't slip, the whole quill - chuck assembly falls out when I lift of the piece I am drilling.
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A knockout punch.
Yeah, Understand that one, just don't have the scratch for a set of those!
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I don't know what you did but the belt used to slip on my drill press long before the quill/taper/arbor would have slipped and fallen out.
Yeah, Very Strange, and Very Irritating!
I got a zillion holes to drill and don't want to use a hand drill.
On another note...
I saw a large step bit tonight at HD. Like up to 1 1/8".
If you were drilling in mild steel that size hole, would that be a better device than a hole saw?
I hate hole saws!
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I don't see an easy way of replacing the pins. This is what audiocats did with Neutrik pin sockets: Tuitorial: How to make a "wood case friendly" stax socket with silver plated Neutrik contacts. - Head-Fi.org Community
But I already have a pair of teflon sockets, so I'm good to go. And I actually don't particularly care that the WPI pins are tin plated brass.
Thanx, I hadn't seen that article. Very Sharp
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The stuff I read tonight said no lubricant at all. Clean and dry fit. I'll know tomorrow when I try to swing a 5 1/4" hole saw with it!
Iffin' that don't work, I'll go the dye, file, and filler route.
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OK, one more change...
Cleaned with Ether and it's in the freezer.
Won't use any oil.
Tap it on with dead blow hammer.
Press and hold the press while it warms up.
I also just read about some "filling" compounds made by Locktite if this doesn't work...
A common problem it seems...
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Hmm,
I think the piece I'm referring to is called the Quill. It is male and goes up into the DP head.
Here's my latest plan. Clean the hell out of everything with alcohol or mineral spirits. Freeze the quill for a couple hours in my Freezer (-4 F). Lightly oil and press back together.
Does that sound like it might work?
The Headcase Stax thread
in Headphones
Posted
That makes it an Ol' Fart...