Les_Garten
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Posts posted by Les_Garten
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That sale annoys me, as my pair arrived with dents, so as much as I understand Todd gets a lot of respect, I have to wonder how my pair got out the door in the first place. Maybe they weren't dented enough to be called B-stock?
Mine had a pretty good nick in them, but they sounded great. I talked to Todd about it and he said JG would fix them. I was worried I would get another set that may sound different so I just blew it off, especially since there are few perfect Grados in the wild, I just figured it wouldn't be a big deal, all in all. . I'll bet that if you had returned yours that they would be in this lot as well.
I don't think they inspected them before they went out the door. Todd handling 500 pairs, no way he looked at them. QC should have been done at the factory anyway, and we know that doesn't really happen. I had to send my GS1000s to them 4 times to get them fixed. JG is a pleasant enough guy to talk to, but their QC blows.
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Yeah, and the cheap price is going to completely wreck any chances of people selling their HF-2's at anything close to what they paid for them.
It's only 26 sets, don't think it will devastate the Grado Pre-Owned SE market
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HF-2 B Stock! - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio
B-stock HF2's... I wonder what they look like
I thought by definition they were ALL B stock. That must be a typo, these must be C stock!
Does make you wonder about something that isn't up to Grado "Standards"
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I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here...The 6-pin variant is even more fun
I removed all of the outer pins, did the centre pin first, and made sure for the outside pins that all the wires were actually towards the outside. I used 22AWG Belden wire and a decent length of heatshrink, and it ended up a nice clean job, and very secure.
Through my powers of inductive reasoning here, it looks like it is best to solder the Jack first, then install in the chassis.
Solid core does sound attractive here.
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Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together...
Good point. You could use heat shrink, but that would cover up the pretty pins.
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Sexy
Although you oriented the top left and the bottom middle one wrong. [/pedantry]
Wait till you see me build something!
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I feel like Newman hoarding Victoria's secret Catalogs!
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They dont replace the cups though, so you wouldnt get the same effect. No idea what a custom metal cup would run, might not be too bad in the quantities they would be looking at. At that point though, why bother with using any grado stuff? If you can make a SR325 sound like a completely different and better headphone, what possible reason would you want to keep the grado design?
Yeah, the cups, forgot about those...
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That's not what I meant, you do get those back, lose = not using in this case, why send a pricey HF2 when 1/2 of it isn't used..
Absolutely agree with that. I would think you would send a SR-60, a different cable, and source a Headband.
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I think the SR325 drivers are used as "cores" to modify, and become the magnum drivers. Could be wrong, but the drivers have to come from somewhere.
He's found a source for his new drivers.
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You're supposed to get the drivers back but there's no mention of you getting any of the housing back (except for the parts that are re-used). Now, if the original drivers are being returned and housings are completely replaced, I don't understand why you'd need to send in the entire headphone at all - couldn't one just send in the headband parts (posts & R/L blocks) and cables?
I've had that very conversation. I have my 325s in pieces and I just wanted to send in the pieces needed. Instead of assembling for the dis-assembly??
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Sounds like to me that getting the Magnum mod for the HF2 is useless.. you lose the drivers & the wood and the outer housings aren't that much different from the SR325i/MS2i, the mod is really aimed at those two models.
How do you know he doesn't return the wood and drivers? He uses different drivers and I thought he was returning the 325 drivers?
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I got an email today from Mouser and the last of the parts should be in stock in April.
A long time but better then the late July date in the last estimation...
What brand are those pretty red resistors?
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Hope it works out for you, the Adcom gear from the mid 80's sounds very good.
They are probably fine, but I think I'll recap them just for peace of mind.
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I did a search and found a company that mods/services the Adcom GFA55II. I have no association nor any idea if their work is good or expensive, here is the link: Big Sky Audio, LLP - Service, Repair, Restoration, Audio Upgrading, Modification of Hi-Fi Stereo Power Amplifiers, and Shortwave Radio in Helena, MT
Thanx Miguel, very interesting!
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Interesting, thanx guys!
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I have some gear that I've had a long time and have not fired them up in a long time.
2 Adcom GFA-555s
1 Pair Martin Logan Monoliths
They are all around 20+ years old. The amps have spent some time in the garage in South FL.
Should I just recap the cross-overs in the spkrs and the amps? I'm afraid to power them up. The woofers need the surrounds rebuilt anyhow.
Just worried that firing them up would take out the boards if the caps were bad.
I think I know the answer but thought I would ask anyhow.
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Nope. Although that measures about .5mm
Isn't a 5 digit digital mitutoyo digimatic a standard part of everyone's computer
desk?? I have 3 on mine (different sizes) Plus a digital micrometer...
I'm using the same caliper on my SR-003s and get the same number. FWIW.
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more practical question where does one obtain said depleted uranium?
I been getting mine from Tehran...
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Koss Custom Fit Noise Isolating Earbuds - $10 + $5 shipping - woot.com Today only.
Not a really exciting deal for purposes of most of us here, but I'm mentioning it since Koss is topical these days. Not that purchasing these is likely to do them much good, since this seems to be a discontinued model that has been remaindered other places as well.
Great Gift idea for the aural'ly disadvantaged.
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Bahaha... my god I can't believe my early morning stupidity =P
I had this funny image of turning a 16 inch long by 3 inch wide rod to make a knob with full size shaft.
For some strange reason I had the same image in my head. I think the reason why we thought this is because of the rest of the design of the amp! I mean once you start offering Platinum knobs, I'd believe a Kryptonite option for sure!
The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!
in Do It Yourself
Posted
What's an ESX board?