voodoochile
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Posts posted by voodoochile
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Any suggestions on how to dial in the picture, looks good now but I think there may be some tweaking that I could do.
I used to use Avia's calibration disc, which does help- but HCFR works much better. AVS forums has plenty of info on it. I have a Sammy A630 dialed in very tightly with HCFR.
Also, AVS has a number of threads showing "average" setting of those who have calibrated, which would probably get you a lot closer than out of the box, without going through calibration. Very nice screen for the price, you have to spend a lot more to do better IMO.
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Well, fuck. It appears the interface change over at flickr is now final/permanent (I'd been ignoring the option to test out the new interface and chugging along on the old interface). As someone else mentioned earlier (I think it was Knuckles), the new interface is full of FAIL. Reminds me of my recent experience with moving over to Office 2007 at work.
That's an awesome endorsement! Sounds about right, too.
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Yikes... I've have a built-in headphone stand all along, but not with bark on it.
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That sounds great. Ebony would go very well with the dark top plate and the medium base material.
I'll see if it's miller time at mr roboto's.
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It'll look much better with an ebony erection on the front!
Actually that would be good. It could serve as a kickstand while working under the hood.
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That blows the doors off absolut knox blox.
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Ebony is the right color, and does turn well... excellent!
Nate- I need to email you anyway about a bunch of other stuff, too.
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Thanks Ari! I should try to clarify though- it's not a separate PSU for the gain, just a separate filter stage. If you take two of the original Mapletree PSUs after the first filter cap, and put one of them on each of the output legs of Ciuffoli's PSU, it's pretty close to what I have. I did not use a Graetz bridge this time as Ciuffoli does, just a normal FW setup with an 80 rectifier. My other amp does have the Graetz bridge, using two hexfreds and a 12X4 rectifier.
Ciuffoli's PSU:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3094[/ATTACH]
The separate chokes on each channel do seem to work quite well. My output stage would be tagged on at the terminus of the above schematic, then there is another r/c filter composed of the poly in oil caps on each channel before tagging on the input stage. It's very quiet, but is still very fast, without excessive overshoot or ringing on transients. The output is pretty heavily biased, too.
Nate- a 1.25d knob will fit okay, it's just that I didn't like the knob I had on hand in that size- it was too short for good vertical use I think. The Kilo is a good height, but a little too skinny, not to mention odd looking. The fluted bakelite communications knob that Lloyd uses on his amps looks very good on it, but feels weird when used vertically.
I think an ideal size would be about 1.125d x .65 tall, or something along that line.
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]3090[/ATTACH]
I've been looking for a place to store this.
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does anybody else really want a Leica M9 and a 50mm f.95?
Want, yes; want to pay, no.
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The kilo knob is .925", and is a touch small. I don't recall the diameter of the knurly knob, but probably 1.25 to 1.33". The clearance between your fingers and the adjacent plugs is a little too small when it's on there.
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We might have to do something about that knob though, I've got a few bits "laying around" that might be suitable.
I agree completely! The only others I had in black were your typical knurled thang, which was a little too large in diameter for the layout, and then I have the hafler knobs, which look great, but did not quite cover the peg for the pot. I should have just snipped off the peg like I usually do.
So, you have something in mind?
This amp is a bit different for me, having everything on the top plate. I think I would have spaced the inputs and output a bit more from the pot if I did it over, which would give more room for the knob. But I do like the directness of the wiring path.
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Very, very nice!! I just love "scrap" components, makes us look thrifty.
No kidding... whatever helps you sleep at night! Works for me...
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Thanks guys! It's pretty dark in appearance as compared to the other amp, it being stainless and birch. This one has a graphite-like hammered paint on the top, and I still don't know what the wood is for certain, but it's plenty dark. Both this and the stainless amp have just plain watco on them, nothing else.
It sounds very nice to me, but I'm going to need help comparing between the two, so I'm reserving any other comments. I am going to put together a little a/b box with a toggle switch that I can plug one pair of cans into and flip back and forth between two headphone jacks, which should help some. I like them both a lot, but there are differences between them.
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Got a couple pictures last night at last. It's been running for a few weeks now, I kept tinkering with it, but it's pretty much done for now. Built mostly from parts on hand, plus an old scsi drive chassis. I did buy a few resistors once I had settled on working values, if only to replace a couple series and parallel conglomerations.
Obligatory off and on shots...
Started with this lumber and chassis...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3086[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3087[/ATTACH]
There is another thread (dead bug psu) that shows some other pics along the way.
The amp is derivation of the mapletree design; it has higher operating voltage, similar to his super, though the operating point and bias are different. The PSU has three chokes, one common to both channels, then it splits. First PSU stage for output tubes is electrolytic with poly bypass, the second PSU stage for the input is poly in oil only.
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^^^scary^^^
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That bench conundrum has a downside, too. I built a "temporary" bench to cover my needs temporarily, and also to assist in building a good bench. It was almost two decades before I was finished with that temporary bench.
It is definitely very handy to have a separate metalworking bench, even if it's small.
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That is a beauty, Craig! Very nice workmanship.
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Yes, they look much like tiny irridescent ribbons. It's more subtle sitting on a table with normal room lighting than it is standing on edge under a pair of 8' shop lights.
I have a friend in a neighboring town who has a Beech bench, and is a very experienced cabinetmaker. I'm going to have to pay him a visit with some pieces I think.
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I've got to find some Red Beech to compare to. So far it seems like the best fit for something that appears to have the hardness and grain of Maple, but with the coloring of Cherry.
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I don't think it's Teak... I've sanded and oiled way too many LF of Teak. Or if it is, it's some different variety than that used on most boats and outdoor furniture.
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I was getting anxious waiting for the big mill to show up (still weeks away) and spotted something interesting on Craigslist, which I went to pick up this afternoon.
It's a well worn Grizzly G8689 that came with a bit of tooling and DRO's on both the X and Y axis. I've already made some wood chips with it and it won't be long before I throw some aluminum on the table and get serious.
Dog!
I can't believe you were able to make room for this. Nice job!
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You do need your eyepiece!
"YES!! This is DEFINITELY wood, of that I am 100% sure!
At first it appeared that it might possibly be toast, but no- it IS WOOD!"
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I'm just not sure from the pics, but I have seen some Beech that looks similar. I just don't think it's Cherry though.
So glad you checked in, I should send you a block of it. The stuff works way too hard (durometer, not difficulty) to be Cherry, but the hue is there.
As for Beech, I've only seen your typical European Red Beech like used in Ulmia workbenches, but that stuff is probably younger growth, or from some managed forests.
At any rate, it's interesting to me because usually it's pretty obvious what any usual piece of wood is, and in this case, it isn't. Prior to cleaning up, I figured it was some form of maple.
Unregulated Power PCB
in Do It Yourself
Posted
That looks like it would run pretty smooth; have you modeled it?
I like it.