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Posts posted by Emooze
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Cutting has definitely been an uphill battle with a diode laser in my experience. I have not been paying attention to what rig you are running so I may be in a totally different court. Also Lightburn was worth every penny for laser work. $40 is nothing compared to some of the other CAD/CAM programs out there.
Those cutouts look heckin dope! ....if you wouldn't mind sharing the vectors.....
I've been doing Arrow of Light plaques for the local cub scout troop. I won't share the finished project because I feel weird sending out names of children but the arrow was cut out with the router then the words cut in with the laser. Arrow was then filled in with yellow paint and the whole thing was stained and varnished.
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Sounds (heh) wonderful. I'm not sure if I should be jealous of the table itself or your wood dealer.
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Did you build it entirely from scratch? What did you use for the main bearing? Building a turntable has been on the long list of projects for a few years now.
Just A+, bang-up job on the design. Loving the combo of woods and overall aesthetic.
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Truth, it is not.
However, it is raining and real cold. The weather does not agree with the great news.
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The thing I have learned working with a lasers is you need to treat it like a weapon: is it loaded/plugged in, is it safed/armed, is it pointed at the thing I am going to shoot and not at the things I do not want to shoot, am I wearing the safety gear, is everyone else safe or with gear on, do I know what I am doing?
Only then, do you press the button.
Shitty day out here, trying to motivate myself to head out to the garage and put my words into actions.
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Agreed, coming from a lot of work-related laser work, there's a personal arm/de-arm sequence and there will be an enclosure before anyone else is even in the garage with me. I trust myself, but no one else.
Also need an enclosure for fumes anyways.
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I got the J Tech Photonics laser upgrade for the Shapeoko. Started installing it today, hope to do some test runs this weekend.
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sorry, should that have been an <\vpi>?
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But wait, is it really a fair comparison if all the speakers are not positioned in the same spots?
You mean to tell me your store doesn't have pairs of servicepeople to move around the speakers so I can get the most accurate comparison??
Who's the manager?!?! I demand to speak to them!
<\karen>
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Compared to what?
Also nightmares are dreams too.
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I would agree that laser is the way to go with cutting paper. Marking, just thinking out loud here, you would need pretty fine control over the laser power level to ensure you didn't also burn through the paper. You could also probably rig up a fine pen to do the lines too.
I think a hobby-grade machine could achieve the precision you need. Below is my experiments with a diamond drag bit on brass and that emblem is less than 1.5" tall. There's definitely some artifacts from inaccurate steps but this is straight out of the box, no tuning.
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That's really damn nice Steve. I'm really digging the matching aesthetic.
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Dang, that is a nice and clean build. Where did you get those heatsinks if you don't mind me asking?
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Thank you all for reminding me I have a pair of Grados. Even if just the SR-80, I forgot how good these sound.
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Nicely done Nate, I really need to pick that project back up.
I finally got around to adding a proper ground loop breaker and redoing all the grounding in the KGSSHV. I didn't take any pics...
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I suppose if I am spending that much on Stax, what is the cost of a nice set of earpads compared to that.
Especially since it looks like they can do that blended leather/velour style that is on my Fostex.
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The red interior of the cups is a solid choice.
Looking forward to maybe checking out T+A in the future.
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Are there any velour pads out there for any Stax sets that people have tried? Ideally in Lambda or Omega style.
I realized recently that I am still using my janky Lambda Novas that I repaired myself back in college because I had no money. I want to finally upgrade but I do have an issue with leather pads in hot weather. I found a few options searching around but I want to know if anyone has tried any.
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Happy Birthday Uncle!
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I would also point out that some, mostly the type that engrave metals, of lasers do not trigger a blink response because they are in the deeper bands of IR. So all you will notice is your sudden lack of depth perception, or vision at all. I found this horrifying quote from Wikipedia:
"A pop or click noise emanating from the eyeball may be the only indication that retinal damage has occurred i.e. the retina was heated to over 100 °C resulting in localized explosive boiling accompanied by the immediate creation of a permanent blind spot."
And seriously, a $300 pair of safety goggles can cover a wide swath of potential lasers, chump change to the several thousand most of the good machines cost.
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What Are You Building Today
in Do It Yourself
Posted · Edited by Emooze
Naaman, I've been using predominantly VCarve Desktop since all my work so far has been 2.5D designs. Kinda steep at $350 but it does make simple cutouts real easy. The Cub Scout plaques took me maybe 15 minutes to set up since I was able to easily import a vector file. There's a lot of community support so a G-code post-processor I bet has already been written for your specific machine/controller.
The bad: the Desktop version only allows a 24x24" work area. Unlimited costs $700, which it looks like you'll need on your machine.
I will say, having used my little diode laser add-on, it's good for space efficiency. But if you have the space for a whole other machine, I would say a standalone CO2 laser would be way nicer to use, and about the same price.