Emooze
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Posts posted by Emooze
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I would agree that laser is the way to go with cutting paper. Marking, just thinking out loud here, you would need pretty fine control over the laser power level to ensure you didn't also burn through the paper. You could also probably rig up a fine pen to do the lines too.
I think a hobby-grade machine could achieve the precision you need. Below is my experiments with a diamond drag bit on brass and that emblem is less than 1.5" tall. There's definitely some artifacts from inaccurate steps but this is straight out of the box, no tuning.
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That's really damn nice Steve. I'm really digging the matching aesthetic.
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Dang, that is a nice and clean build. Where did you get those heatsinks if you don't mind me asking?
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Made some simple clamps for the Shapeoko out of some scrap red oak. Don't have a finished picture because I don't have a flush-trim router bit to cut off the tabs. Still learning feeds and speeds so the finish is also questionable.
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Thank you all for reminding me I have a pair of Grados. Even if just the SR-80, I forgot how good these sound.
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Nicely done Nate, I really need to pick that project back up.
I finally got around to adding a proper ground loop breaker and redoing all the grounding in the KGSSHV. I didn't take any pics...
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I suppose if I am spending that much on Stax, what is the cost of a nice set of earpads compared to that.
Especially since it looks like they can do that blended leather/velour style that is on my Fostex.
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The red interior of the cups is a solid choice.
Looking forward to maybe checking out T+A in the future.
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Are there any velour pads out there for any Stax sets that people have tried? Ideally in Lambda or Omega style.
I realized recently that I am still using my janky Lambda Novas that I repaired myself back in college because I had no money. I want to finally upgrade but I do have an issue with leather pads in hot weather. I found a few options searching around but I want to know if anyone has tried any.
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Happy Birthday Uncle!
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I would also point out that some, mostly the type that engrave metals, of lasers do not trigger a blink response because they are in the deeper bands of IR. So all you will notice is your sudden lack of depth perception, or vision at all. I found this horrifying quote from Wikipedia:
"A pop or click noise emanating from the eyeball may be the only indication that retinal damage has occurred i.e. the retina was heated to over 100 °C resulting in localized explosive boiling accompanied by the immediate creation of a permanent blind spot."
And seriously, a $300 pair of safety goggles can cover a wide swath of potential lasers, chump change to the several thousand most of the good machines cost.
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This is one of the better videos I have found explaining a lot of the basics in one video. Everything he talks about is applicable, really regardless of the synth format, even extending to non-modular synths.
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Cool. You do you. I'm gonna bow out of this.
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Not quite, what I need is more gear (typical). I've seen some stuff where they are essentially building entire separate synths within the same case then just syncing the sequencers off of the same clock or clock dividers to get what I would call, polyphonic sound. Stupid, pricey, but I have a goal to do shit without a DAW.
I found a project to use a gieger counter to introduce randomness into the pattern so that may be the next step.
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I recently have been slowly acquiring modular synthesizer parts and stuff. I have nothing to present yet as it still sounds rather flat to me (need more gear) but the hobby seemed like the natural progression of being in this hobby and being a DIYer.
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Thanks, I hadn't paid that close attention to the software yet but I agree, requiring a network connection is off-putting. And 40% off is kind of a huge deciding factor. Looking again at prices and just from a work-area size comparison, the Shapeoko is a bit of a no-brainer.
I'm not ready to pull the trigger on it yet so I would be very interested in your long-term observations eventually.
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Nate,
I am nearly in the same boat. Been weighing the pros/cons between the Shapeoko vs the X-carve. Are there any particular reasons you went down the path you did?
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The cap has a tolerance measured in pF with no total value but the resistor has a percentage.
I'm still even more confused though, what are the resistors for now? Does it have a built in feedback loop? Is it a weird op-amp like a 701 that needs external components?
I know you all don't have the answers I need, I'm just tired and instead of going to bed, I am here.
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What's the cap connected to?
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Thanks Pars and yes you got it right.
And she's a real beaut
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I ended up going for a 465B that looked to be in much better condition than some of the regular 465s available for a not bad price. Only downside is that it does not come with probes. I'll wait until it gets here to see if the probes that came with my Rigol will work before I go buying more.
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On 12/16/2018 at 9:09 PM, Emooze said:
A while back my PS-X7 stopped maintaining platter speed and resulted in a really weird Beck album before I caught it. I put it to the side to troubleshoot for a bit. Now it maintains speed just fine and I live in fear of the Eldritch god of chaos that now lives in my turntable. They prefer Wilco over Beck.
Sounds good though.
Turns out the Eldritch god that lives in my table is more finicky about input voltage. Bought an AVR and have had no issues since then. Until it becomes displeased again I am sure.
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Nectar Sound DIY Electrostat Energizer
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Compared to what?
Also nightmares are dreams too.