ujamerstand
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Posts posted by ujamerstand
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I've never been able to get consistent solder joints on the PCBs until I started wiping small amounts of liquid flux on the leads of the components after they've been inserted. No more cold/weak joints for me now.
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The link to the discrete diamond buffer has typos that prevented it from loading. That being said, I'd be interested in one of the epsilon12s.
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Didn't expect to see you here momomo.
I'll keep that in mind. -
huh. I learn something new everyday. I've been advised to protect the wooden finishes of my headphones with lemon oil. I didn't know there would be nuances between treatment of different finishes. So say my wood piece has been applied a layer of grain filler and polished, do I have to do anything to protect this finish?
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lemon oil. (mineral oil)
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I moved off TKD because there is not a good electrical connection between the shaft and collar. The net effect is that you get a crackling or whooshing sound as you turn the shaft.
That's something I would expect from a RK27, not something as expensive as the TKD pots.
I don't think I would sit around to play with the volume either but I can imagine it would annoy the hell out of me when I do turn the pot. How does the alpha pot fare with this regard? -
On the second page there was recommendations on alpha and TKD pots. Now I've tried contacting alpha about the four channel pot but got no answers. I rather not spend $250 @ thel-audio for a quad cp-2500 either... Does anyone know of a place to buy these 4 channel pots? (other than familygate's quad RK27)
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Excuse my ignorance, what are the advantages of running the PSU at a higher voltage? I tried searching, but nothing came up. :s
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Thanks for the offer, but I'm not too worried. 2 of the 568-NC3MD-LX-BAG were meant to be extras if I fubar the other ones. I was going to mod them into stax connectors, but instead of using a 78-S6S as base, I'm thinking of just pouring epoxy into the structure, since these gold pins I got won't fit into the 78s.
I just have to be more careful now. -
Made a mouser order last night, but I've spot a mistake after ordering. I've tried to correct the mistake through the online chat program, but no one answered. By the time I wake up, the order is processed and they can't change a thing no more. Now I ended up with 2 extra 568-NC3FD-LX-BAG and 2 less 568-NC3MD-LX-BAG.
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Nah - I couldn't cope with imperial measurements on a day to day basis
Not to mention their temperature is in Fahrenheit. =.='' Come to Canada instead.
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There seem to be good news happening all around! I would be interested in a board set.
In the UK Farnell stock them (at least if we're talking Aavid 6300BG), their part number 1213471 at -
I'm going to guess that there are two different pots in there. Maybe an ALPS for the normal one, and a stepper for the other side? Does the side that "goes around and around" drop its volume to a minimum when you turn it pass the maximum?
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That price tag... 39 000 TWD = 1 231 USD = 1 268 CAD It looks like I won't be having any buyer's remorse for my SR-404. lol
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Oh, so it's a slab of metal, not plastic? For some reason I had thought the SR-404 used a plastic baffle...
And I say meh to 404 etch.
We'll see how it goes.
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So between now and when I get a working stax amp, I've been researching more on the "etchiness" people talked about in the SR-404. If my understanding is correct, this is due to the natural resonance of the drivers being in the mid-high frequencies. To remedy this, stax used glue to "fix" the drivers to the baffle in the old lambda series, and this took away the vibrational energy at those frequencies. The SR-404 used glue that was not as good as the one they used before, and the drivers could not get the same amount of adhesion to the baffle; thus the etchiness returns. Is this correct? What's a good replacement glue for the default adhesive? (Good to know if the etch drives me crazy >.>)
Also, when the driver is fixed to the baffle, doesn't the vibrational energy get carried over to the baffle as well? Does the SR-404 have thick enough of a baffle to damp it? In short, does it do tack or tock when you tap on it?
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Damn. The parts are on their way... I'll try to take a sanding bit and open it up a little instead. If it gets ugly... well... off to local hardware store for cheap xlr jacks.
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Yeah, I saw that thread, I was asking because the walls of the pins for these:
seems to be a bit thicker than the ones used in his mod. I'm not particularly sure if they would fit. I'll find out when I get them I guess.
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^^Have you tried replacing the pins in those connectors with the taiwanese tube pins that you posted in the diy forums?
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I think at this point I'm just going to turn around and sell my extata boards and wait for the KGSSHV. Great first stax-related DIY project, eh?
Well, there's always that option too.
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I can't seem to find boards or parts list for the KGST at the moment, other than a few pictures of the prototype and estimated cost at around $2K (!!!) from headamp. So regardless of the exstata's high THD, I think it should be a good start into diy electrostatic amps for me.
I guess it shouldn't be to bad once I:1) replace the bias supply
2) add thermal breakers to heatsinks on the PS
3) Mod the boards with KG's fixes for the hybrid (if possible, likely not...)
4) and most importantly, rethink about my budget for this build
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My board haven't arrived yet to no testing as of yet but people were experiencing odd things like the volume of the system drifting as if the bias supply wasn't working correctly. There were also some issues with the first supplies (as in they never worked) but I converted mine to the voltage doubler with a voltage divider at the end setup from the start so I never had any issues.
Ah, I see. So something like the bias supply from the blue hawaii would work here, right?
As for the exstata, I've been cleaning up the layout of the new boards to try and make them smaller for the last couple of days and I've gotten them down to 195x122mm which isn't bad for something which has the same number of heatsinks as the KGSS two channel board. A simple PSU coming up too and then I'll order some boards.Nice! I assume it is the SS version with KG's fixes? I want better THD too. >.>
BTW, about this:
The heatsinks need to be bigger, and thermal cutouts have to be added to the heatsinks to shutthe thing down. And half the power going to the shunt devices needs to be taken up by power resistors
bolted to the chassis.
I'm having a hard time trying to understand which resistors in the schematic this is referring to. Or does it mean that we should add a series of power resistors before the shunt devices? If so, which devices in the schematics are the shunt devices? /noob questions
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I was soo looking forward to building the ExStatA hybrid until I've read the last few pages of this thread. I even started collecting parts, and was just about to place a $220 mouser order.
spritzer: a few pages back you mention the bias supply is finicky. How does the problem manifest itself?
I don't think I would sit around to play with the volume either but I can imagine it would annoy the hell out of me when I do turn the pot. How does the alpha pot fare with this regard?
I just have to be more careful now.
I guess it shouldn't be to bad once I:
Spring Cleaning DIY Stuff Thread [Final Update]
in Do It Yourself
Posted
I hope you haven't had the chance to ship out anything yet.