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High Rollers
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Posts posted by Horio

  1. Thanks guys. I just got the amp running last night, so I've only been able to listen to it for a few hours. I don't know if its just me being biased because I built this thing, but this amp sure kicks the crap out of my little SRM-1 mk2. The bass on my O2's seem to have better control and extension, and I think I'm hearing more detail too.

    Needless to say, I'm very very happy so far. :)

  2. The idea with everything including the very stable power supply is to set the thing

    once after about an hour of warmup, and likely never touch it again. 10 to 20 volts

    of offset for electrostatics is nothing. My T2 stays at -13 volts and its just too

    much work to open it up and adjust it. Has not drifted in 2 years..

    That's good to hear.

    Just for fun I powered up my amp this morning (was cold in our place), and the offset V (O+/gnd) started off around -40V. The balance offset was only around -10V initially. These numbers came way down as the big sinks started to warm up (took a good 5-10 min I'd say). The initial offset really seems to be dictated by the temp of the big sinks at startup.

  3. Did you fire up Horio? We probably have done something stupid so don't use me as an example.

    I'm kind of nervous about firing mine up, until we get a better idea of what is going on with your build. I've been working on some of my wiring in the mean time.

    I want to see picture of your 2SC2705... and A970, C2240.

    I'm guessing he wants to make sure they are real?

  4. I would try and omit the ground between the attenuator board and the amp. The amp should be happy with a true differential input.

    I'd add a ground loop breaker between the PSU ground and earth. I use a pair of anti-parallel diodes, but a resistor works too.

    Thanks Marc,

    So I'll tie the ground from the attenuator (and hence the input ground) to the chassis ground, instead of the GND point on the amp boards. The PS ground and L/R amp board grounds will all be tied to the star ground. I'll also try placing a pair of anti-parallel diodes between the star ground and the chassis ground. Would something like this work for the diodes?

  5. Here are a few photos of the Stax Jack PCB that Ujamerstand was nice enough to make. It solders right onto the Jack pins, mates perfectly with KG's teflon jack, and allows you to use a Phoenix Contact style screw header for convenience. All you need are (4) 6mm long standoffs to place between the teflon jack and PCB.

    BatchPCB was nice enough to send us a number of extra boards. For those interested in the PCB's, Ujamerstand will be posting more details about that soon.




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