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sbelyo

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Posts posted by sbelyo

  4. Anyone up for a group buy of IXCP10M90S ?

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted · Edited by sbelyo

    Hi All...

    Anyone up for a group buy of IXCP10M90S ?  This place below seems to have 146 of them and is in Florida.  I know I need them for a bunch of projects and could wait but I'm thinking this might be good for everyone.  Has anyone ordered from this place before?  

    https://store.nacsemi.com/Products/Detail?part=IXCP10M90S&stock=XSJMZ0000019254&Mfr=IXYS&auth=n&utm_campaign=listing&utm_source=findchips&utm_medium=aggregator&utm_content=textlink&instock=y

     

    I'll run it like my others in the past.  I'd say 7-10 people is all we need.  I'm in for 30

  5. Sanity check needed for an amp build

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    On 4/7/2022 at 1:47 PM, RonH10 said:

    Hi Sbelyo. I have a Bottlehead S.E.X. with switches for output impedance. My HE-560 and HE-6SE V2 sound best off it at the 4 ohm output impedance setting. It's rated at 2 watts per channel. At higher impedance settings they sound muffled. Your other 2 cans may sound great out of your pair of transformers.

    I have that very amp and use the same settings as well.  I definitely don't want to let these go to waste

     

    On 4/7/2022 at 2:20 PM, simmconn said:

    For the same phone, the lower the secondary winding impedance tap you connect to, the lower the output and the lower the distortion (assuming class A SE output stage). The max power transfer happens when you have a matched impedance. It’s not recommended to connect to a tap that has higher impedance than the load.

    I did some research and talked to some people that have built this amp for headphones.  The 32 ohm and 120 ohm are the taps I'm going to use.  From all accounts I should be good with that.

  7. Sanity check needed for an amp build

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    Hi All...

    I was cleaning up and found a pair of Electraprint OPT that I had wound for headphone impedance. I've attached the values.  I got these for a build of tubelab's TSE that has now changed to a TSE II.  My plan was to use 45 tubes for the output, that would give me 1-2 watts.  The headphones I use are HE-560 and HE-6 SE.  I have HD-650 and Beyer DT-770 (250 Ohm) as well.  My thinking was to start with the 32 ohm tap and connect them directly to the headphones.  I don't want to fry the headphones or blow my ear drum if something goes wrong so I'm looking for a sanity check.  Should I build it for headphones and use these OPT's or abandon them and get a new set for speakers?

    opt.jpg

  11. Transformer-Coupled Balanced Output for Solid-State Preamps

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    I agree, I've found a few schematics online similar to the one I posted above.  I see that edcor makes a similar one for $28  https://edcorusa.com/products/copy-of-pc-series-balanced-or-unbalanced-line-matching-transformers?variant=41110251962555

    I think I'll order a pair just to see how it works.  The Jensen transformers are $95 each.  I also found https://cinemag.biz/line_input/line_input.php

    Do you think I'm fine with 600 Ohm | 600 Ohm like the article?  The input would come from the lineout of a chord mojo and feed a Dynalo mini

  14. What Are You Building Today

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    12 minutes ago, mwl168 said:

    If it matters, I built the that340 version because I believe it's the latest version of the balanced Dynahi with the SUSY input IIRC.

    I did not use the THAT340 BJT though - I use the jfets and plugged them into the DIP sockets. No other changes needed. 

    Going by memory here but happy to dig out more details if you like me to.

    Thanks, I'm sure I'll need the help.  I remember the lil kinght boards are SuSy but were layed out for the LT jfets and had a regulator for the servo power.  The THAT340 boards did away with the regulator and added the THAT340, probably some other changes as well to account for sand that went out of production.  Since I have the parts for both I'll most likely build them and see what I like better.  I figure why not since I'm only populating the amp boards and drilling the heatsink mounts for the second set

  15. What Are You Building Today

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    1 hour ago, mdr30 said:

    It's my favourite amp for dynamic headphones, double mono like yours with psu in a separate box. Sounds so good I haven't even bothered to replace the THAT340 with JFETs.

    Mine too...  I have a single ended version from the original headwize site with the jfets and a dynalo mini as well.

    I have two sets of amp boards, the lil knight version and the that340 version.  I have the parts for both and jfets for both so I'm not sure which one I'll build.  I'm leaning towards the lil knight boards first, we'll see I guess

  23. DIY cable gallery

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    On 10/25/2021 at 12:43 PM, jamesmking said:

    The cardas chassis wire is rated at multiple KV so its great for valve amps. It is enamel coated so ideally you need a solder pot to burn away the enamel and tin the copper. I tried a high temperature large tip soldering iron but could not reliably get rid of the enamel. A solder pot (once its slowly) heated up to temperature) works well and consistently.

    I once rewired a valve amp completely solid silver wire, cost a fortune, total garbage. I simply could not listen to it, clapping sounded like a popcorn maker, violins were so bright and edgy it almost made my gums bleed. I removed the sold silver wire within an hour of finishing the rebuild and put it in the bin. 

    I use the Hank Thompson track "orange blossom special" from "live at the golden nugget" to detect brightness/forwardness. If the violin on the left hand side hurts you have a high frequency emphasis issue. If the bass on the right isn't warm you have a dry low frequency issue. If the entire track is fatiguing you have bad high frequency issues.... it might not be your type of music but it is a live recording in a casino with plenty of ambience and things going on in the background - this is especially true between tracks and on introduction before the first track. 

     

     

     

    I'll try to find that just to see.  I use Dire Straits Brothers in Arms to judge upgrades

    On 10/26/2021 at 4:52 AM, bbest said:

    For my HiFiMan HE-6 were made custom cable with pure silver + UPOCC copper, proportion 1/3. And it sounds balanced and transparent at same time.

    I Have those headphone and am considering making a cable from Cardas cable.  Need to finish my dynahi first

  24. DIY cable gallery

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    On 10/24/2021 at 3:13 AM, jamesmking said:

    is the mill spec cable silver or silver plated?

    personally I have always found cables which are silver or silver plated to be bright, shouty and lack ambience. I only use updated copper cables. I use Cardas chassis wire for my builds and use Cardas golden reference for speaker, power and some inter-connects. Van den hull first is not bad but I think lacks a bit of bass - it can also cheaper second hand than the Cardas. I even find silver plated/solid silver fuses to be bright.

     

    Its silver plated.  It sounded just like you describe.  I was wondering if it would settle down with some break in.  I think I prefer copper myself.  Think I'm going to start using Cardas for chassis and interconnects now

  25. DIY cable gallery

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    I made these over the last week.  The blue pair is Cardas 2 x 21.5 AWG.  The white pair is 2 x 24 AWG SPC mil spec from navships. 

    The navships cable is a step up from the Mogami that I was using.  Cost was $35  After a week I really like it but found it to sound bright.

    The Cardas is a step beyond the navships cable.  Sounds neutral to me.  No harsh highs or bloated lows.  After 5 hours I'm liking this one the best out of all three.  Cost was $65

    cardas xlr.jpg

    navships xlr.jpg

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