sbelyo
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Posts posted by sbelyo
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On 10/10/2021 at 1:47 PM, Jon L said:
Which "PC" are you powering? I've tried quite a few different power supplies for my PC/server, and the largest difference in SQ seems to occur when better power is given to the very end of the PC signal chain. For example, if using USB out, giving decent power to the USB card. Giving good power to an outboard usb-to-spdif converter makes a large difference also.
It's a core i5 system built around this:
https://www.asrock.com/mb/intel/H110M-STX/
The next step is to power My Amenero directly with 5V
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The PSU is finished and in place in the rack. At day one I couldn't really hear any difference. The second day I left it on all day then listened at night and there was a positive difference. It's subtle but seems to get better a little each day. It was worth the experiment per se.
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1 hour ago, audiostar said:
Shield stays connected to the chassis only. Ground is pin 1. I use Neutrik's that have separate shield/chassis connection from ground and chassis goes back to the PSU where only there chassis connects to circuit ground and mains ground (in a star manner).
So, in your example for the input I would only switch pin 2 and 3 (and not switch ground, nor shield) with a DPDT relay best, something like a a Kemet EC2-12NU (one per channel), located near the inputs on the back of the amp. A front located SPDT switch will only toggle the relays.
The output I probably would not switch at all, but depending on the subsequent device (power on/off status) it will be the one or the another (or both, if you make sure you can use both outputs at the same time). Ofc, you can have the same switching for the output as on the inputs, one EC2-12NU per channel and switched by a front located simple SPDT switch. As you prefer.The above Kemet's are for 12V, check the voltage in your device or use MC78/79 type of voltage regulators or change relays to 5V,... 24V to suit your needs.
Omron G6A-234P-ST-US relays might be used as well.
That makes sense to me. I figured I'd only switch pin 2 and 3.
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On 6/29/2021 at 4:48 PM, starcat said:
Anyone tried the Dynalo Mk2 through-hole with Xicon 273 resistors? All the RN60Ds are 100ppm where the Xicon 273 are 50ppm, 1/2w... and cheaper as well.
I haven't built a dynalo with them but I built several cmoy 's back in the day just to explore resistor sound. I used Vishay Dale RN60D, Holco H8, and Xicon. Xicon came in last to my ear so I avoid them if I can. I also use the IVY III output stage for my DAC and that uses Xicon resistors in it's stock form. I switched them out for PRP and it was an improvement. So I have two instances where I didn't like them in the signal path. But feel free to try, YMMV and nothing ventured nothing gained etc. etc.
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On 7/28/2021 at 11:36 PM, Pars said:
In the US, NAC has the LSK389B in the TO71 for $7.12 ea.
what's their website?
On 7/28/2021 at 6:13 PM, starcat said:I can get genuine LSK489/LSJ689 in TO-71 6L or SOT-23 6L as well as LSK389/LSJ109 in TO-71 6L.
Waiting for prices... the LSK389A TO-71 is about 12 Euro the piece.I'd be interested in LSJ109 in TO-71 6L I always wanted to hear the LSK389/LSJ109 but missed the boat on the LSJ
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18 minutes ago, bbest said:
+1 agree with you. I like his boards. I redesigned L-Adapter and UltraBib 1.3, made them more compact. Both has great specs.
That's cool! I'd like to see those as I want to use for two other projects where space is at a premium
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yeah, that's what I ended up going with. Salas's stuff is great! The first board I posted was too risky as there was nothing to prevent the full rectified voltage reaching the PSU if the regulator failed. Salas tested his supply for failure a few different ways with no problems if the regulator failed.
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Here's the completed working PSU. My first build of 2021
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lol, Amazon is too funny
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I agree... Goldpoint make a 1 in 2 out or 2 in one out for $395 That'd be about what it would cost to build what I'm taking about. I see lots of 4x1 and 1x4. Where else should I look?
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I'll soon have the need to switch between two different sources and amps and I'm two projects behind even starting my preamp. I want to put together a 2 in 2 out switch. If I use 4P2T switches how should I manage the shield (pin 1)? Or should I use 3P2T2D and not worry? I'm just trying to see if I can get away with 1 deck instead of two?
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Ha, good point. The reviews look good. I'm swayed toward less is more now. I always liked that those dacs are upgradeable and the trial period
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The OG is the one I know I didn't like but that was the earlier version so that's still a consideration I guess. I think it comes down to these two:
Yggdrasil Less is More. Even better performance for lower cost. The most affordable Yggdrasil uses four TI DAC8812 16-bit D/A converters. Many think this is the best sounding flavor, hence less bits, more better…less is more.
Yggdrasil More is Less. The best-measuring integrated multibit DAC, ever. This Yggy uses four TI DAC11001 20-bit D/A converters. If you’re one who thinks multibit DACs can’t measure well, this one’s for you—approaching -120dB THD+N.Based on a few reviews it sounds like the Less is More could be what I'm looking for. Plus it's got a trial period. Anybody have one in their system now?
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I have not, I will check it out
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I think I'm going with the Pontus II. Has anyone had a chance to compare it to other R2R dacs in that price range? I really want the terminator but $4400 is a chunk. I wonder for that extra $2800 if I'd hear the difference.
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making some progress... Just need to figure out the wiring for the voltage and current display
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started this build this weekend...
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ok, now that I have my locky_z curve tracer working I need to figure out what template to load in the tracer to match the BC556 (PNP) and BC546 (NPN) and what settings to use. I'm kind of lost in that area and I've never used anything precise like this to match. I'm pretty sure the unbal/bal boards run at 20Vdc so I'm guessing I want to match for that voltage but other than that?
Here's the templates available and a screenchot of the settings for one of the PNP templates
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I was wrong about my unit! It didn't like being plugged in to a hub. Wanted to be directly into the USB port on the PC. Also, I had to start my power supply at like 2Vdc and slowly ramp up to 32Vdc. It came to life after that.
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On 4/24/2021 at 12:00 PM, tkam said:
Believe it or not, it's more common than you think and I know of several cases where it's done solely to meet local municipality requirements. Most people hear 'data center' and think of these super fancy expensive facilities. 95% of data centers do not match that and are built to the lowest possible cost. Building nice, enterprise grade facilities is very, very expensive.
It could have been worse, OVH had an entire one of their data centers burn to the ground because they simply didn't have any fire suppression system: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-france-ovh-fire/millions-of-websites-offline-after-fire-at-french-cloud-services-firm-idUSKBN2B20NU
Yeah, I guess when you think about it the cost outweighs the risk sometimes
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Thanks Bro, just happy to be up and running.
Who puts a water based surpression system in a data center? That's common sense 101. I mean anyone who's watched Terminator 2 should know about Halon. I don't think they use it in new installs but still.
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Sadly, mine was DOA. I set it up tonight for the first time with 36VDC. Verified I had voltage at the supply and connector. Plugged the power in, heard relays click. Plugged in USB and no device detection. Removed USB and power, then just plugged in the power. That produced a spark when inserting the power connector. I sent a message to Locky for assistance. We'll see what needs to be replaced. He included and empty populated board so worse comes to worse I'll populate that.
My advice, buy the one made with new components if in stock
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6 hours ago, RudeWolf said:
Yggy absolutely must be used from the BAL connection, the SE is "just there" as a crutch. Supposedly the analog board upgrade made the sound less warm and more precise.
My experience with a 9018 Buffalo is that it needed a ton of tweaking to sound right. The FIFO board basically was what made it listenable.
Definitely agree on the need tweaking part. I'm getting ready to build my third one with a separate PSU for the AVCC along with DimDim's isolator board and TFT display
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I had listened to the Yggy about three years ago at can jam nyc and didn't like the sound compared to my BIII at the time. I've since built a BIII Pro 9028 and an all Salas power supply. This was a huge improvement to the original BIII. Has the Yggy gone through improvements since then?
What's your favorite coax cable for making RCA interconnects?
in Do It Yourself
Posted
I want to make a couple sets using different coax cable available on the net. I want to use solder connectors not compression.
I'm looking for something flexible. I've ordered Belden GS-4 and some 26 AWG shielded silver plated from navships. Anybody used Belden 1505F?