parris
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Posts posted by parris
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Vicki it the ride you're going to be on the tour de cure?
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When I got back into riding a few years ago I built up a set of wheels with Mavic open pro rims and Ultegra hubs 32 hole 3 cross and they're very rugged. One of the things that really helps with wheel durability over and above quality components and builder is to use a bigger tire. I run 25's on everything right now but am thinking of going with some 28's for some of the gravel roads we've got in my part of the world.
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Vicki you're 100% right re the frame that's on the other forum. I'm torn due to the fact that the thing would fit me but there's the "I already have a JKS and shouldn't be looking at another" devil on my shoulder. Any way you slice it for that frame it's a very good deal. When it was all said and done I paid substantially more for my frame than the owner is asking for the same thing right now.
This brings up a question that I have a tough time with. What makes some people buy and then flip custom and not inexpensive items in short amounts of time?
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I've been getting out a little even though the weather's been a little moist lately and until a couple of days ago I had been riding either my RB-1 or mountain bike because of a lot of road salt still on the roads around here. It was finally nice enough to break out the Kirk and although I've been perfectly happy turning pedals with the other bikes the Kirk really does just make me smile that much more
! It just seems more focused and precise. Of course yesterday and today we're back to rain and mid 40's so it's back to the bike with fenders... I've actually been scoping out a JKS that's been one of the other boards that's for sale and it's close to how my particular frame measures.
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Jpelg can you see on the bike if there's a decal stating what tubing the frame and fork are made out of? Also what are the balance of the components? Cranks, bars, etc.
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You know it's unsettling what you just wrote because I was thinking essentially the same thing! When I had mine built the hardest choice I made was color. I flip flopped between the yellow I've got and Moltini orange literally for the 6 or so weeks before Joe Bell contacted me.
You know Vicki you could always sell some of your audio gear to fund such a worthy item...
I'm going to duck now.-
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I REALLY think that it should be Vicki! Just think of how sweet a JKS would be with Di2 and some mad fiber wheels... Hmmmm. Now i'm sounding like a crack dealer
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After NOT buying a new road bike for 20 years I got my Kirk last year and upon seeing the announcement thought... "hmm I've got better than 1/2 saved for one of those". M U S T R E S I S T!!!
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Ouch. I hope things work out okay as hitting the deck like REALLY sucks.
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As nice as Daves photos are they just don't do the frame justice. The one part on my bike that smacked me was the rear dropouts and how they looked like they just grew out of the tube ends. This is seriously cool stuff to me. Congrats Vicki and It'll be great when you've got it to enjoy!
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No matter how many time's I've seen the pictures it's just cool to see another one come to life.
One of the neat things about Dave as well as some of the other top tier builders is that they only use the jigs for tacking the frames and such together. Once they've got the tubes tacked in place the frame comes out of the jig and generally put in a park stand where they will silver solder the frame. They do this so that there aren't stresses induced as the frame takes shape. Another thing that they do is they all have a particular sequence they will braze the tubes in. They do this so that the frames will come out of the process straight and not need a bunch of alignment work after the fact. It's pretty esoteric but cool stuff. -
Dave's been a car guy since before he and I knew each other years ago. The Elise is the latest in a long line of cars that he's saved and worked on. Although it looks like a shiny new penny It's not close to being new and like anything else he traded up for this one several years ago. So don't let the photo tell you something that isn't...
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Bingo! Thanks for posting the link. The jigs that Dave uses are Anvil brand frame and fork jigs and I think they may be put out by Don Walker but I can't be 100% on that info.
Vicki that's a petite head tube! It's always cool to see the progress photos that Dave supplies
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I don't remember the name of the site but the person who runs it put out the measurements for many popular bars. things that were included were the amount of drop, how far forward the reach was, things like that. You may be able to find a few pages from the different manufacturers or parts distributors so that you can get a ball park idea for the different shapes. I found that the Deda zero 100 bars that I've got now work better than the fsa bars that are on one of my other bikes due not only to the shallow overall drop but also the curvature that the company uses with that particular bar. The good/confusing thing is that there are just so many really fine bars on the market it's easy to get a little twisted when shopping.
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24 degrees this morning, the wind's been howling for the last few days, and there was snow on the cars. I wonder what we did to piss off mother nature.
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If I remember correctly I believe that due to how the logo is made that a stencil option may be possible. In any case super cool that things are coming together!
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Cool beans! Have you decided on the color?
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Smart thinking Vicki. Dave is among if not the best at working with fit and needs of the people he builds frames for. I think that's part of why he gives the 20 questions form so that he can get a vibe for those things that the hard numbers can't tell him by the fitting sheets.
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hehehe they crossed again
Be aware that 12-25 and 39-53 would be pretty standard road race gearing so there's not a lot of low range with that setup. 25 years and 60lbs ago my standard across the course gearing was 13-24 42-52 and I was in MUCH better shape than I am now. that gearing is still on my Serotta and on the rare occasion that I take that bike out my knees threaten rebellion every single time. and that's on generally flat terrain! When the 39 replaced the 42 as the "standard" road bike chain ring it made things better for just about everybody who went that direction. Now we have the further advantages of the compact crank setup which opens even more options. If you want to find out about gear inches and such punch into a search bar sheldon brown gear calculator . that will take you to a site where you can play around with different options and such which will show in inches of travel what your choices would have. It's a nice tool to use when considering things like cassettes and chainring sizes.
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Our messages crossed
. If you're running a 12-25 right now with a 39-53 standard crankset about the smallest chainring you would be able to fit would be a 38. You could also go to a 12-28 cassette with the rear changer you have now as well. Just be very careful to make sure the chain is long enough. I'm running a 39-53 and 12-26 on the Kirk and although I can make it up the hills here it's not fun with several of them. I picked up a compact for when I know I'll be doing a bunch of hill work. My Bridgestone has a compact 34-50 and 12-25 and that gives me the low gears I want now so that's the bike I'm on until I drop some more of this winter er... um padding. I don't feel bad about not being on the Kirk due to the junk on the side of the roads this time of year. I've also got some heavier tires on the other bike in the hopes that I may not flat. -
I just checked the Shimano site and according to them depending on which Dura Ace model you have the max sprocket will be either 27 or 28 teeth. You may want to look into a long cage Ultegra for the larger cassette. You will also need a chain for the extra links that the new gear will require. Another option to consider is to go with some smaller chain rings paired with your old cassette which will give a lower gearing option without having to change out the more expensive bits of your drivetrain. Be aware that the second option will really only work if you've got a compact crank with 110 bcd chainrings.
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I could be wrong but I think the Dura Ace "might" be able to handle a 32 depending on what the chain ring combination is. What cassette and chain ring combo do you have on the bike now?
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Cool beans Vicki! The Calfee is a really sharp bike as well. Colds suck in general but often times an easy spin has seemed to help when one hits.
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Bewpubs, BBQ, warm weather...color me envious! Ahh what the heck at least I've got high taxes and road salt!
! It just seems more focused and precise. Of course yesterday and today we're back to rain and mid 40's so it's back to the bike with fenders... 
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. If you're running a 12-25 right now with a 39-53 standard crankset about the smallest chainring you would be able to fit would be a 38. You could also go to a 12-28 cassette with the rear changer you have now as well. Just be very careful to make sure the chain is long enough. I'm running a 39-53 and 12-26 on the Kirk and although I can make it up the hills here it's not fun with several of them. I picked up a compact for when I know I'll be doing a bunch of hill work. My Bridgestone has a compact 34-50 and 12-25 and that gives me the low gears I want now so that's the bike I'm on until I drop some more of this winter er... um padding. I don't feel bad about not being on the Kirk due to the junk on the side of the roads this time of year. I've also got some heavier tires on the other bike in the hopes that I may not flat.
HC Bike/Cycling Thread
in Miscellaneous
Posted
Brent rain can be tough on vision. Things that have worked for me in eyewear is to have a pair that's fitted quite close to your face. Big gaps are not your friend in this case.The problem with glasses fitting like this is that fogging then becomes an issue when stopped or riding slow. There are some things that can be applied to the lenses that will help to reduce the fogging but right now I can't remember the brand names. If I know I'm going to be out in the rain for a while I've actually got a couple of pairs of less expensive glasses that I've treated with rain-x which sounds goofy but in this case it does work. I don't use the stuff on my better glasses because I just don't know how or if it'll damage the lenses over time though.