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Posts posted by holland

  1. Had heard of oil before (and WD-40 in particular) for packing tape glue, but was worried about thoroughly cleaning the through-holes after. So no problems on that front?


    Should not be a problem when you soak the entire PCB in solvent.  I use WD-40 to remove all sorts of glue-ish stuff, like stickers, residue, and decals.  It makes very short work of that stuff.  You can even use it to remove registration stickers on your license plate.  Glue residue doesn't like oil.


    Here's a video I found on youtube just now. 


    The acetone should work too.

  2. What, do you think she's poor?


    On the contrary, I think she's loaded to the gills and swimming in gold and bathing in champagne.  I need a sugar mama. :)


    I am now.


    Holland, I'm going with DA9000.  I've only ridden Shimano, and unlike the haters hiding out in this thread, I like it.   I was going to go Di2, but that's really over the top for where I ride and the type of rider I am, and though I could justify dropping 9 grand-ish on a bike, all things included, it's funny how I couldn't justify going just that bit more.  If I'm still able to ride as I do now in five/six years, I'll get another bike, and maybe go electronic.  


    Last day of work before vacation....new bike arriving tomorrow....if I can get through today, life is good.


    DA9000 is pretty sweet.  The Di2 electronics seem counter intuitive for what a bike means, at least to me.  I use SRAM Force, but that DoubleTap stuff has caught me multiple times with mis-shifts, especially when I go to trim the front and end up dropping it down or shifting the rear and end in the same gear.  I was thinking about Red, but the durability question kept coming up (and noise).


    Have fun on your vacation.  I take it your bike is going with you on a long trek?


    BTW, are you thinking of getting a power meter?  A few guys I know train with it.  It's pretty cool to get real time and logged power data to correlate with HR and cadence, but expensive and seems to make it more work than play.  I'm thinking about it, but I'm not sure it's "worth it" for me.


    And Holland, there is another choice... starts with a "C".


    Hah!  I always forget about them, but then again I am more MTB oriented and Campy doesn't play there.  I do hear that it is nice though.  I don't know anyone with Campy equipment (for their road bikes).  Lots of Shimano and a handful of SRAM.




    I am planning to go to SRAM Red 22 with hydraulic rim brakes sometime in the next few years.


    That's sweet.  I ride a cross bike, so I have discs.  I use mechanical, and am thinking of moving to hydraulics since they are now available.  A steep 2K descent makes my hands tired.

  3. It will arrive on Saturday.  Depending on when it shows up and how busy Vince and Ethan are that day, I may be riding on Saturday evening   :)




    That's a neat frame.  It sounds like you've got a fairly expensive stable of bikes.  Are you going to fit the new one with Dura-Ace or Red?

  4. This is a bit of topic, as it’s in regards to my BH, but maybe still relevant for KGSSHV builders, and I didn’t want to make a separate thread for my query.


    My BHs transformers are housed in a separate plastic box. The psu and amp boards reside in separate metal chassis.

    Earth ground is connected to the amp/psu chassis via its umbilical from the transformer box.


    I’m upgrading and building a metal box for transformers, so I will need to connect earth ground in this box.

    Here’s my query... Do I need to also connect earth ground to the amp/psu chassis as well, via the umbilical?


    I know for a Beta22 2 box build the amp box is not connected the ground earth, but this being high voltage I want to be 100% sure. 


    I'm probably not in the group you're targeting but I'll respond.  I earth both.  It's electrical safety protocol.  Any exposed conductive parts (metal) should be earth'd so as to not electrocute anyone accidentally, in case of a fault.  Fault current needs to go somewhere, and that place should be the safety ground.  You also don't want the chassis to float to some other electrical potential and do weird things.



  5. Marshall, that looks interesting but the nose of the seat definitely looks odd.  I'm itching to try a new saddle but I think before I do I'm going to get a full/proper fit session done on my bike.  Even after raising the saddle last week I think I probably should be even higher and I'm not sure that my fore/aft positioning is really correct either.  I'll probably wait until after the century ride since I'm pretty comfortable as is and don't want to be fiddling with that before such a major undertaking.  I also don't really know the first thing about how to even go about selecting a different saddle.  I know I need to measure my sit bones to get an idea of the width to shoot for but other than that it seems like no better than a 50/50 chance of liking a new saddle any better than the old one.  I also don't know what a reasonable life expectancy is for a saddle.  By the end of this season I'll have 4,000 or so on my current saddle.


    It's for riding on the nose of the saddle, for steep climbs, I think.


    Bike fitting, I'm not sure what to make of it.  Things change as you ride more or less.  People I know that fitted had to refit or just ignore it.  Some people are not flexibile, and after riding for a year are able to bend more and feel more comfortable doing so.  Their fit is lower in the drops and a longer reach stem.


    Go to a Specialized store.  Butt fitting is free.  They will measure it with what the workers call a "buttmeter."  After that, it's all preference.  Some stores allow you to try saddles out and ride around.  If you don't like it, they can exchange and the prior cost carrying over.  Do clarify with the store first.  Some do not do this, but almost all realize that saddle fitment is a very personal thing.


    4,000 good for you.

  6. Did anyone else read these two posts and hear them to the tune of Katy Perry's I Kissed a Girl?


    Nope, but I do hear Queen's Bicycle Race.



    Nice ride, and great footage, Mike.  I think you and Jeff are onto something with the mentally deranged mtn bike everywhere boy.  Perhaps he is the start of a new condition emerging - MBSES (Mountain Bike Everywhere Syndrome).  Get that film ready for Sundance, and we can start the fund raising machinery.


    Cyclocross bikes are the win for this.  I do have an old 1990 Rockhopper that I have set up for long mountain and road rides.  My CX bike is not quite set up for CX yet (need wheels and different gearing).

  7. That's jamming a ton of stuff into there.  I would be concerned about noise, although I have to say that I am doing something similar for a Dynahi (original boards).


    Are 2 box solutions out of the picture?  I would pull the trafos out, and the regulator for the attenuator (noise doesn't matter much here, I think).  That should free up lots of room.  I'm guessing that's not the goal.


    Can you tap the AC for the 15V PSU and run it to a different 12V regulator?

  8. I'm just really surprised how easy it is to solder 0805 parts. I might say that it can be faster than through-hole. The electrolyte caps are a bit of a bitch to solder, but those are better in tth anyways.


    Yeah, this SMT board is awesome.  0805 is easier and faster, IMO, as well.  It's also easier to probe, and you can get devices on both sides if needed or in some cases.  IIRC, Justin uses SMT on his amps.  There's a stigma with some DIYers about SMT.  I'm not sure why.

  9. Most DIY is more or less like this here.  AMB/Ti does a bang up job, but he is an anomaly.  He runs it like a commercial venture, and not a personal project.  As does other MOTs like Beezar.  It's DIY for a reason.  Most DIY isn't really newbie friendly.  AMB, and similar companies, help to get people started, but some people don't go the extra mile and actually obtain knowledge.  They become glorified board stuffers and ask questions that any person that spent a few minutes looking at a schematic and/or studying the PCB can answer.


    Based on what you're posting and asking about, I will say this project is too hard for you.  If you don't know how to wire a transformer, or to run wires from the PSU to the amp, or what fuse to use, you need to get some more experience.  None of these are project specific, and speaks clearly to your experience base.


    Sell your boards, you really won't get too far with this project.  You are correct that you don't know what you don't know.  The question is can you resolve a problem you hit?  The answer is clearly no, and will need serious hand holding.  If one needs so much help, why bother with DIY?  You didn't DIY.  Someone else did it for you.


  10. Thanks, Birgir.  It's an interesting thread to say the least.


    There are these 2 links, though the pdf schematic doesn't match the pcb shown in the jpg.  It's close enough, however, I'm not sure if either of those were the actual PCB.  The only differences that I can see is that the servo outputs to the bottom of the 49.9 resistor instead of tweaking the bias point of the NPN.  The 49.9 resistor is connected to a 4.7uf cap to float it.  It's also a RC filter if I'm not mistaken, to roll off some bandwidth.  The other is the diode string is replaced with an active circuit for adjustable bias.





    I think I'll use +-15V @ 25VA for the balanced config with 1N4747 and 1N4745 in the supplied PSU boards.

  11. Is there a square wave schematic?  I don't know much, or rather anything, about this amp.  If not, I can draw one from the PCB when it arrives.


    The silk screen says +-15V, but PSU is going to put in about +-22V, without changes.  Should the PSU get tweaked or is the plan to run it at +-22V with a different opamp?  Also, does each board pair pull more current than the KSA5, since it comes with 2 PSU boards?  It doesn't look like it will from what I can make out.  What's the quiescent current draw of each board, or each balanced channel, or all 4?

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