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mwl168

High Rollers
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Everything posted by mwl168

  1. Finally got the time to mount the FLM ball head on my Bogen tripod which I bought back in the 80's. Started playing with and setting up the controls on the FLM ball head and I am impressed. FLM is a small German company and seems fairly unknown in the US. I also have a RRS BH-40 ball head. IMO, the relatively equivalent FLM ball head is of equal or better quality at a lower cost to the RRS ball head. I like them both. The FLM head does have some unique and innovative features which I find rather handy.
  2. Went on a bit of shopping spree the last couple of weeks. Taking advantage of Holiday discounts on the FLM ball head. Nice design and very high quality product. The Canon 1D MK4 body is a prompt purchase - one in great shape came up at a good price. Only less than 34K shutter actuation. Shoot me a PM if you are interested in the mint condition 300MM F4 L lens. I bought a 300mm F2.8 last year so this one becomes somewhat redundant. I'll cut a good deal for longterm headcasers. Also has a Canon 1.4X ii available.
  3. Happy Birthday Joachim!
  4. Is the GRLV intended to output +20VDC or +/-20VDC?
  5. I bought some 2SC4686a from utsource many years ago. They tested same as the ones I got from BDENT. But I am fairly positive they also sell some fake parts.
  6. Looks like time to start a dedicated thread for the Stax X9000.
  7. I recommend looking into one of the OLED offerings based on the picture quality. It should fit nicely into your price range. I have the LG 65" one and rally enjoy it. The ability to display true black is something I have not experienced in other types of TVs and it seems to make the contrast better too among other things. Although the sounds is nothing to write home about. And that's probably common for these new generation TVs that tend to emphasize on being as thin as possible. I have mine hooked up to a nice 2-channel system. Happy hunting!
  8. I have found using smaller diameter of solder helps very much with this problem. I now use .025/.6mm ones almost exclusively now for this kind of work.
  9. Exciting and interesting race indeed. Still not impressed with Mercedes’ strategies. It probably costed them the race again. It was impressive that Hamilton fought all the way back to the podium. Now that the Mercedes no longer has the commanding lead in the pace of the cars, they ought to do better in the other departments to retain their world championships streak.
  10. All the polarized caps on the PCB are clearly marked with the polarity and voltage rating. Measure the dimensions and lead spacing of the board to decide which caps to order. Most of us used 1/2W resistors for our builds although 1/4W ones probably suffice in most if not all positions. Take a close look at the photos posted in the thread should also give you lots of information. With many parts becoming obsolete, locating an old BOM may not help you very much.
  11. This is what I used for the socket pins: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143522733990?hash=item216a9f1fa6:g:chUAAOSwga9eN~R4 They are intended for tube sockets but work very well for Stax sockets too.
  12. That TKD pot (2-gang) is also used in the Audio Note M7 preamp. I looked up its price at Michael Percy’s site many years ago. I don’t remember the exact number, it was expensive but I did not choke on it.
  13. Happy Birthday Jose!
  14. Did you put the book “The unbearable lightness of being” on the top shelf?
  15. Oops! Just realized we were discussing Clear in the Utopia thread. Maybe we should move it to the dedicated Clear thread?
  16. I also have both HD650 and the original Clear. In a nut shell, I think of the Clear as the “HD650 on steroid”. I hope I get to listen to the Clear MG soon and see if it’s worth “upgrading” to. I would love to hear how the comparison goes from skullguise.
  17. I cannot speak to the different versions of Carbon boards and I don't Know which version Sebtdi is using. But for the V5 boards I use there is a jumper that is used to engage and disengage the servo.
  18. If your Carbon board has the offset servo, you need to deactivate the servo before making the offset adjustment. Then activate the servo afterwards. I don’t remember the detail steps but that information is in this thread somewhere.
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