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DefQon

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Posts posted by DefQon

  1. If you`re trying to transplant x07 drivers onto old x04 Lambdas. You need glue or tape or drill holes.

    If you`re recoating x07 drivers it is easy but not for x04 and older drivers because it is epoxied together.

    No mylar comes coated. Pretty sure Stax coats it in house.

    Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

  2. does the x07 drivers fit into x04 or previous? from my knowledge they do not.

    They will fit but just the way it is secured will be different to the old baffle setup of the typical old Lambda's (404 and before). You can either glue/use of strong industrial strength double sided tape the driver casing assembly to the baffle or you can drill 4 holes into the existing baffle to line up with the holes on driver assembly housing.

    Repairing Lambda drivers is possible as I've done a few but it requires a lot of effort and time into prying the epoxied driver open without damaging the drivers. Once open there may be a slight chance the force transferred over to the stator and gold ring holding the diaphragm will be slightly bit warped (easy to fix). Then you need to clean and scrap off the old epoxy and glue material Stax used to sandwich the drivers, so re-assembly the stators are absolutely flat. There is also the 60% possibility of the original diaphragm needing a clean/re-coat from dust and glue bit debris settling inside but a higher chance you need to re-diaphragm the driver, which is an easy process but more so trial and error to getting the tension right without hurting the bass UNLESS you have a proper measuring and tension rig involving a pound gauge used to a certain pounds per square inch of weight/force distribution for the mylar across the stator. 

  3. Do you happen to have a schematic for a proper 230v bias supply? Every time I track down a thread that looks like it might have a better bias supply design, the image links are dead.

    For the amps just trace back the bias to the circuit before the ballast resistor. There is always 2 resistors and 1 reference to ground that is a voltage divider off B+ from the HV capacitors.

    For the adaptors its a bit different because as Birgir mentioned its a doubler over the AC input.

    I`ll post some circuit pictures of my SRD-7sb mk2 as a reference as it has both pro and a proper 230vdc normal bias output.

    Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

  4. You know you want it.........       :D

    Nah I've stopped collecting and buying headphones shortly after my head-fi ban, have gone over to the dark side with a high end analogue setup and various speakers. The only headphones I would consider buying when they pop up is the SR-4070, SR-X MK3 Pro and the Sigma NB and Pro for reasonable prices then my Stax collection would be complete.

    This is my first post on this forum and I am seeking your advice.

    I have a Stax Lambda Signature that I bought in 1993. The HP was stored for a very long time and is not in operating condition. The drivers' membranes (or dust covers if any) are wrinkled, the foam covering the membrane has decayed.

    Is a Stax Lambda Signature repairable?

    Compared to current production Stax (thinking of the new L-700) is the Lambda Signature still competitive sound wise? is it worth repairing or I am better off buying one of the current models?

    The wrinkled membrane outside of the drivers and you can see through the mesh gap on the earpad side is the dust cover and it is normal. You actually cannot see the driver diaphragm unless you took the whole driver apart as it's sandwiched inside in between the stator housing. What do you mean by not in operating condition? Unless the headphone was stored in very humid or sunlight conditions diaphragm inside may have stuck to one of the stators and repair is not possible unless you break open the drivers.

    If the dust cover has holes then dust would have settled in by now and will cause driver squealing and channel imbalance when powered on.

    There are no more NOS Signature drivers from Stax distributors and they will replace it with a modern day 407 driver for few hundred dollars which you may as well buy a new Stax headphone.

  5. Too expensive.

    Anyway I recently repaired a Micro Seiki MX-2 package composed of the MS-1 headphone and its adaptor and I have to say despite the flatened pads it has more balls, bass, speed and less coloration to the mids and mid bass compared to my 4 pairs of SR-3/New and 3N even though it is made by Stax for Micro with evident design cues taken from the SR-3 range. The bias and stator supply and wiring is a weird one as it has 4 pins a`la electret fashion but is a full blown electrostat. It has 1 wire for per channel for the stators divided by a resistor network and 1 wire per channel for bias supply which I`m not exactly sure at this stage. Now the step up current through the transformers via the speaker terminals provides enough volume even with the adaptor powered off which is just some diodes and 5M resistors for each channel from the 100vac AC (the Japan export models utilised a battery pack) to supply the bias but of course when the adaptor is powered by the power outlet, volume gain increases, early bass distortion is cancelled out and all other weird anomalies to the sound is mitigated and the sound output is what I would rate over the SR-3 ranges sound quality by a notch and almost SR-5 territory.  And my pair have flattened pads so the seal is broken for 100% bass output.

  6. Tinkerer I saw your posts with the pictures on Head-fi and was very close to creating another account there to PM you with some information on the transformer specs.

    Anyway it is not surprising that you're getting some problems because the transformer is not even for the 12S, the output boards have been modified with different output transistors that don't even belong there.

    The transformer is the exact same unit found in the SRM-3 amplifier and the original output transistors are TO-3 cased Toshiba 2SC1167, near impossible to obtain but you can find them if you know where to look as I purchased 5 NOS replacements for 1 of my output boards for my 12S which is still on the bench for repairs.

    The static noise you hear on the channel is either an out of spec leaky resistor or bad output transistor. The input jfets (2sk30's) would not be the problem. You need to source the original TO-3 transistors and replace those ones (I have some NOS stock I can sell if you need some). Also you can't measure the resistors as it is as they will all show up out of tolerance especially the 150kohm resistors because the 500ohm trimpots adjust the balance of the output. To measure the resistors properly you need to isolate it from the trimpots or desolder them one by one and measure it that way, and most likely it will measure fine (but the dielectric properties can be out of spec when high voltage and heat is presently going through the resistors). You should only see 290-300vdc between the base and collector of the output transistors. I'd replace all the resistors with uprated equivalents and replace those transistors with original Toshiba TO-3 units. 

    Btw since I can't measure the winding voltages for my SRM-3 due to a broken transformer, what are the voltages and mA current supply for the secondary side windings?

  7. Lot's of negativity about the LCD-4 on that site and given the few pages I've skimmed so far I agree that Audeze must be smoking crack if they want $4k USD for LCD-4 when they still haven't fixed there consistency and reliability problems with there current range.

     

    Right now with the headphone industry it's all about who ever markets the most expensive headphones has the biggest dick on the block. There is no innovation and new ideas now. Wait till Joe Skubinski of JPS releases a new $15k Abyss model. Fuck maybe we should get Wachara a 3D printing machine, a bigger CNC milling machine to mass produce DIY ESL headphones and sell them at $10k, bound to be plenty of suckers buying them in no time.

     

    On the other hand......What the fuck is this?

    https://www.audeze.com/products/microphones/planar-magnetic-microphones

  8. Look at the size of them. Size comparable to the Jecklin Floats.

    KGST's starting to surface in Japan:

    http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/k198381037

    http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/e168977315

    And then there is this one:

    http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/p491700709

    I know the seller won them on an auction last year for about 50000 yen but I did not expect it to have a custom RK50AX2 pot fitted inside?

    Don't know any other round pots (other then a few custom ones from Taiwan) that are brass or gold like the RK50...

  9. That schematic is actually not the correct one for the SRA-10S, it is actually a modified schematic for the 10S output board (10S never used 2SC1101 output transistors, it and its big brother the 12S always used Toshiba 2SC1167). 

    Spritzer is right, the 12S and 10S share the same identical schematic minus a few quirks here and there with part values.

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