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DefQon

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Posts posted by DefQon

  1. I truly don't get the interest on HF over the new Jade.  Just look at the prototype, they are still doing the same old stupid shit (no Stax plug for instance) and we all know it will be very, very expensive.  No leather pads which makes no sense at all. 

     

    Now I'm the last person to defend the King Sound lineup but at least their headphone sounded better than the Jade stock and was 500$.  They also managed to make proper cables and the whole assembly is solid enough.  They are also replacing all the H1's for H2's free of charge.  Still I'd rather have a 207... 

    For me at least I sort like the look of the original Jade having a bit of resemblance to the HE90, haven't heard the KS or Jade though but read the horror stories on them dealing with reliability and extremely poor construction where some units broke on first listen. 

     

    More e-stat's in the market means competition for Stax which we might see lesser expensive models be it a new flagship or an entry level, but I can't see this happening soon unless Sennheiser or Koss or maybe even Sony got together and released something crazily good since these are the only few companies around still with experience in the e-stat field.

    Where is the info on it? I read from Tyll on IF but can't seem to find any more info about it.

     

    There is a poll thread started by purrin dating back to last year to encourage Hifiman to bring out another Jade successor, there's bits of pieces of information (credibility unknown) here and there in the thread to do with the next e-stat from H-man.

  2. Instantly reminded me of my Gamma's.

     

    We need more e-stat's on the market than planars. Actually no, let me correct myself we need more less expensive but very good sounding headphones. 

     

    Where is the Jade v2.0 that they've been prototyping all this time?

  3. lol 

     

    I showed that schematic to a local builder who has been building and repairing amps mainly tube speaker and some solid state designs since the VFET days, he just giggled. 

     

    I actually didn't know the price of the ALOStudio6 until Spritzer mentioned it while ago with it using shit trafo's what the fucking fuck $4k for something that looked $1k max sort of like the Woo stuff, big, intimidating and nice chassis but underwhelming sound for the price.

     

     

    On this subject take a look at this:

     

    http://www.siliconray.com/audio-amateur/amplifiers-w-case/low-price-6p3p-single-ended-tube-amplifier-kit.html

     

    So this is a fully featured tube amp kit for 241$ shipped.  It uses 6P3P which is a Chinese version of the 6L6 and 6N1 driver.  It is trivial to use 807, 6BG6, 6L6 or indeed 6V6 and swap the driver for 6N1P-EV or indeed 6CG7 (aka 6SN7).  Now all the components included are probably crap so it's just the chassis, sockets and transformers that are usable.  Good excuse to get some Koa SPR's and rework the circuit to perform better.  The PSU needs work but the small Wima 10uf caps are cheap so make for an excellent input cap after the tube.  Add another choke, some new caps and we are in business. 

     

    All in something like this could cost 500$ with very nice parts and crush the Alo piece of crap.  Hell there is plenty of space on that front panel for six TRS sockets if you think that helps...  :)  The Edcor output transformers are only 50$ and should fit the top plate perfectly. 

     

    I just bought one but I'll do it a bit differently.  I'll fit some Lundahl iron and turn this into a Stax amp.  Might even add some input transformers and balanced inputs.  XLR in, then single ended to balanced output. 

    Coincidentally I bought one of the 6P1 amp's from that site while ago, for the price $200 shipped, you are bang on the money with the crappy quality parts used (generic resistors, caps and shit soldering and wiring technics), but for the price just for the trafo, chassis and some of the re-usable parts it's pretty good and with a bit of extra $$ and time to fix either fucked up CCS or SRPP stage used as output it actually sounds nice, you can go further with an O-scope and make sure you get no fucked oscillating noise from the circuit and go further fixing it up, still worth it in my books definitely good way to learn about diy tube amps rather than just theorising all the Morgan Jones diy tube book in your head without an actual project to work on.

     

    Some of these big shill companies should just fuck off already and leave us alone, especially the clueless fucks on head-fi thank fucking god I ain't active on that shit anymore (excuse and pardon some of the few folks there that actually do provide non shill input to the threads).

     

    Now I'm pissed.

  4. I'm sure I can.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Awesome...PM'd.

     

    If the diaphragm is intact then there is no reason to swap it out.  Just recoat it and replace the dust cover. 

     

    Yeah was thinking along the same thing and only carefully opened them up given how fucked the dust filter was, luckily the diaphragm looked untouched no holes.

     

    As for King Sound, just saw this

     

    Looks to be of something good in my books given how bad it was but they should've nailed it in the first go before releasing it.

  5. SR-3N came in, no sound unless I crank it up to max on the volume dials of my Accuphase power amp thats feeding the supplied SRD-5, swapped it for my SRD-7sb mk2 same results and finally my SRM-1. Opened the housing, dust filter was completely pushed in and full of holes, ripped it off, carefully dissembled driver and the diaphragm inside looks fine. Maybe lost its charge? Outter cups are yellow seems the past idiot owners must've had this sitting under the sun.

     

    No clue on fix but for $80 it seems acceptable to be used as spares.

     

    Anybody have SR-3N drivers for sale?

     

    Wachara are you able re-membrane these for me?

  6. Man that sucks for you I'd lose my shit if I had found out some scratches on a $3.6-4.5k headphone.

     

    Anyway @ Birgir:

     

    Slightly low volume output and some distortion from both channels (once you turn the dials up) on an SR-3 off a SRD-5 adaptor, what could be the possible causes? I'm thinking the SRD-5 adaptor as I just purchased this combo from YJ and hoping to give it some TLC and get it up and going properly when it arrives at my doorsteps, so I'd think it's good to brainstorm some preliminary solutions to the problem.

     

    Cheers

  7. Quote from the other site:

     

     

    By KG:

     

    The 727 is a local feedback version of the 717. The 727 has a current source, the 717 has a resistor. Otherwise virtually identical.

    The 727 runs the output stage at higher power.

     

    The kgss and the 717 are similar amplifiers. (4 stage amplifiers)

     

    The kgsshv and the 727 are similar amplifiers except the kgsshv uses global feedback. (4 stage amplifiers)

     

    If people want it, the next revision of the kgsshv boards will have the local/global feedback option.

     

    Personally i like the sound of the global feedback version better.

     

    The 313 and 323 are 3 stage amplifiers. Same or similar to all the transportables (srmXh,srm151,srm252)

     

    There are the 2 ac coupled single power supply amps, sr-001 and srm300

     

    the srm-t1, t1s and 006t are virtually identical. (solid state/tube hybrid)

     

    the 007 has twice the number of output tubes and runs the output stage at twice the power. (solid state/tube hybrid)

     

    The T2 is a tube/solid state/tube hybrid.

     

    The BH and BHSE are essentially the T2 output stage with the kgss input stage configured for 800 volts.

     

    For stuff older than the srm-t1, things get complicated. spritzer has more of the really old schematics.

     

     

    By spritzer:

    While we are on the subject, Stax amp history lesson. 

     

    First SRA1-8 amps were all classic tube units of varying complexity made in the 60's. 

     

    SRA-3S was the first deviation from this with a transistor front end and AC coupled tube output stage.  Preamp and phono amp on plug in cards similar to the old ISA units used in PC's. 

     

    SRA-10S/12S were the first SS amps with a push pull front end and AC coupled outputstage.  Run fully in Class A they get stinking hot and feature a nice regulated PSU for the low voltage circuit and a stacked PSU for the +640VDC B+. Similar plug in system as on the SRA-3S but now everything except the basic PSU is on plug in cards and the build quality is far better. 

     

    SRD-X was the first portable Stax amp and features an automotive chip amp driving a pair of transformers.  Think Darkstar but with much better specs done in 1979.... 

     

    SRM-1 Mk1 was pretty much the same circuit as the SRA-12S but turned on its head.  Similar AC coupled output stage.  I recently refurbished one of these and it is a nice little amp but the SRA-12S is better over all. 

     

    SRM-1 Mk2 is where things get tricky since there are so many variations of it.  The first ones were some weird Mk1/Mk2 hybrid though fully DC coupled but later units are much more similar to the current crop of Stax amps like the 313.  Now the amps are fully balanced from input to output though most only have RCA inputs. 

     

    SRA-14S is pretty much the SRM-1 Mk2 circuit but turned on its head.  Better parts and some tweaks but most of the price difference is spent on the preamp capability. 

     

    SRM-3 is just a SRM-Xh with a full size power supply.  It even uses the same circuit boards. 

     

    SRM-600LTD is the same basic circuit as the T1/006t but modified to take the ECC99 tube. 

  8. Silver trafo's eh?

     

    Sounds almost like Audio Consulting's silver line trafo offering for CD/SACD/DVD transports few years back. I don't think the silver provides any difference to sound compared to regular copper, it might just made more strictly to spec with the near perfect windings required for matching specifications. 

  9. Been waiting for those pictures for a long time :D

     

    The stator looks a bit dirty inside like some sort of rust build-up? 

     

    Any serial sticker inside the cups? I know my SR-3 and SR-5 has them.

     

    Very curious as to how many SR-2's were produced in 1968...maybe it was used for prototyping the SR-3?

  10. And I think headfi is all screwed up with their censoring and protecting a bad company that is selling bad stuff to credible customers.

    In a sense, headfi is perpetuating the problem.

     

    +1. While I don't think everything is crap including the users (some folks are alright) on the other site but I've come to my senses not too long ago that there is just too much noise, compared to when I was lurking back in 2004 and delightfully reading (the Trevor Network fraud with KG's Dynahi amp builds, some SP issues and the Rudi stuff), it's slowly developed a trend of strong censorship with what you can post and what you can't, than everything gets covered up and naysayers get banned by mods and everybody move on again.

     

    I think at the end of the day it's all about generating enough attention and noise with buying new shiny new gear and such from a business perspective on HF's behalf, I don't really have much of a problem with that but it's some of the posters that piss me off that need to learn to separate fact from opinion and vice versa. Is it that fucking hard?

  11. :laugh:

     

    I was like  :palm:  when I read one of the post that mentioned the Lau is the best dynamic amp available because it is the most expensive and that Cavali prices the amp accordingly as to what can compete against it and obviously a step up from the GSX MK2 because it is MOAR expensive. Fuck me some people are absolutely clueless with a flawed logic. 

    • Like 2
  12. Size, mica structure and (if 0 getter) looks awfully similar to a 6005/6aq5, though only pushed to max about 280-350vdc. Unless it's the Chinese/Russian version similar to how they made 6p1's to handle up to 350vdc easily from a bog standard el84/6bq5/6p14.

  13. After that, if there are still creases - Repeat the following procedure with a little bit of 3M post-it note and then scotch tape (the gentlest you can find) followed by more agresive scotch tape in order from "you're crazytoast" to "OMFG-WTF-YOLO"

     

    Omg this had me in tears.

     

    Btw, I had the exact same problem with my old HD580's, the crinks need a bit of heat to reshape back to normal. I fixed mine by sleeping with it, enough heat to retract the membrane to normal.

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