Jump to content

Pars

High Rollers
  • Posts

    8,428
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Pars

  1. From your pics I couldn't see al the connections to determine how big of pain in the ass this would be to do. Of course its easy to sit here and say I'd do it
  2. But..... this one goes to 11...
  3. You will need to be very careful with the mounting bolt if it is that tight, as contact with the case on both ends of the bolt will result in a shorted turn... something you definitely do not want.
  4. If it were me, I would wire the left one up like the right with the additional grounds. If that didn't work, I would swap L and R attenuators to see if the problem moved or not.
  5. I haven't tried the Neutrik Powercon/Speakons, but I have used the JAE aluminum housed connectors and like them. Available in up to 16ga pins (solder), so good for most applications unless you need real high power handling. Similar to the Amphenol mil connectors but more reasonably priced. For some reason, Mouser only stocks these with the chassis connector with male pins and the cable connector with female, which is backwards for a power supply chassis connector IMHO. Digikey carries the female pin chassic connectors.
  6. Pars

    Deals

    If you were truly a procrastinator, you wouldn't have two of those sitting in your closet...
  7. Like Naaman says. And these don't need to be matched.
  8. Is the Sigma set for +/-24Vdc? I thought most build b22s for +/-30V? At any rate make sure you have both + AND - 24V relative to GND. Then check the power inputs for each board making sure you have +24V where you are supposed to as well as the -24V. Then start going thru the checkout steps from amb's site.
  9. Agreed. You do not want to use any connector type that is commonly used for something else. Examples: IEC, XLR, RCA, etc. As Grahame pointed out, someone is going to plug the wrong thing in at some point.
  10. Thought you guys were looking for a way to get hi rez outta a player for the Sabre32 DAC? Didn't look at the price. I'll go back to sleep now
  11. Kinda overkill; KG would be proud. Are those connectors on the leads, or just protective caps? Hadn't seen those before. Just make sure you hook V+/V- up correctly to the amp boards so ya don't fry shit.
  12. Not sure, but would something like this be of any use: Audiopraise Vanity :: High Resolution Digital Output for CD/SACD/DVD-Audio
  13. Marc is of course correct. If it is the crossover, then a replacement tweeter isn't going to help you. Funny, I can't find the voicecoils on Madisound anymore. They used to carry a bunch of them (I bought one within the last year IIRC).
  14. 2G of RAM (Crucial) and a 640Gb WD Caviar Black HD from newegg for my Powermac G5.
  15. Its pretty much the only thing that could go, unless it was so abused that the cone or dome is farked. What Vifa tweeter does this use?
  16. If it is the voicecoil that is blown, many Vifa tweeters have user replaceable voicecoils; Madisound carries many of them and that may still be available.
  17. Yeah, its a tower (case like a Mac Pro now). So, Seagates aren't any good now? I always used to think of WD as crap, but apparently not anymore? I guess I'm more used to Quantum HDs (can't remember who bought them). How about Hitachi? NewEgg has the 640Gb 7200rpm WD for $69.99 with free shipping (god, that is cheap!). I just need to open the puter up and make suree it already has the cables, etc. I should add some RAM to it while I'm at it (has 1G now). Thanks for the recs.
  18. I need to add a second HD to my G5 Powermac (dual 1.8Ghz) and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? Should be SATA IIRC. Thought I might get it from OWC or newegg? Something in the 500G or so range I think, but open to suggestions. The PM has an 80G and I haven't filled that up yet (kids are working on it though). I went back 4 pages and didn't see a similar topic, so thought I would just ask.
  19. I don't know from personal experience, as I don't use external DACs, but if you are going to bother, at least use a chunk of RG179 micro coax. If you can get it right and it doesn't cost that much to do it, I can't think of a reason not to. Speaking of jocko, some interesting posts on audiocircle, such as this thread where he takes a squeezebox (IIRC) and mods the SPDIF out for another board member, who hears the differences. http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=45330.0
  20. Yeah, for a statement DAC, that is some serious fail on the SPDIF wiring and lack of a pulse transformer and impedance matching that I can see. I can't understand how you bother to put a 75 ohm BNC on, then just grab some wire from the tool box
  21. I just mix PRPs and MK3s... that is what I did on both my Dynalo (a couple of them) and the Dynahi. No value substitution that way. Ideally, FB to either a pad between R19/R20 and pad at the input where it is currently; make the user choose?
  22. THose look good. The original Dynalo LEDs were the FLV110s, but these have gone thru several suppliers (used to be at Digikey but now at Mouser) and the Vf range is higher (1.6V-2.0V vs. the 1.6V-1.8V on the ones you came up with). C31a is right of R57 and goes from the input to ground. As it is (on the schematic), the servo is driving the input; one thing I always lked about the dynalo, etc. was the fact that the servo did not directly drive the input. I would agree with Marc's comment on R19/R20 if doable. Percy carries a wider E range than PartsConnexion or Soniccraft do. For example, the 30K is available in either Roederstein or Holco. I personally like the Roederstein MK3s, and these should fit (if the board will fit the 1/2W PRPs). EDIT: Looks like the board layout will fit 0.3" resistor spacing; the 1/2W PRPs are 0.4" body length, so guess that isn't gong to work (at least without creative lead bending). Ditto for the Roedersteins )0.325" body, closer). Holco are 0.375" for H4 (and he doesn't seem to have H8 anymore ??) Caddock TF020 are 0.6", so no go there; I'm sure the Vishay bulk foil are similar
  23. Really sorry to hear about your daughter and your ordeal, Hopstretch. Hope she gets better quickly!
  24. From the sound of it they don't actually build their own USB cable (smart move), but modify an existing one that hopefully has the proper impedance control, etc. (would need to research the USB spec to see what this actually is). Typical BS in specing the crystal using a meaningless long term frequency stability figure (ppm) rather than phase noise (jitter).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.