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UFN

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Posts posted by UFN

  1. What I was after was simply that the shaft itself (non-threaded part) was 20-25mm like on the Alps pots instead of the stock 14mm for TKD. If you need it shorter it should be easy to trim with a small hacksaw or a dremel-type tool anyway (clamp shaft the while cutting to avoid any mechanical damage).

    My rationale is simple: I normally countersink pots from the front, because it's simpler and it can be done without a mill if needed. Any work on the back of the panel requires a mill or CNC because you normally have to make room for the whole body of the pot, pcb etc. in order to get it more than a couple of mm. deep. A longer shaft also should make it easier to mount and center the large knobs typically favoured by the HC community ( ;) )

    Extending the threaded part would of course work as well, but as that would make it difficult to use the pot with thin front panels so I wouldn't recommend going this way (or ask that we do so).

     

    //UFN

  2. 1 hour ago, mwl168 said:

    Sorry being late to response. A couple of things:

    2. I am interested in the 4CP-2511 myself ( like Jeremy Clarkson, I believe "bigger is better" :D) and can commit to 2 units - that's 3 units between obiwan and I. If we can get 2 more units we'll meet the minimum quota for production. Anyone interested?  

    Is any customisation possible? I have a couple of 4CP-2508s in my stock but it's really annoying that the shafts are so short that it's nearly impossible to use them with 10mm (or so front panels). If it's possible to have them made with longer shafts (5-10mm longer than the stock configuration) I'd be in for at least one and possibly two pcs.

     

    //UFN

    EDIT: The same question would apply to the CP601s actually ^_^

  3. Partly. From memory, the Dynalo runs app. 300mA at +/- 15-20V, i.e. an idle dissipation of around 10-12W per channel. This is not much by class A standards (a 20W/ch speaker amp like the Pass F5 or similar dissipates from 60W/channel and up).

    Distributing the heat across many transistors means the Dynalo can use smaller output transistors - the MPSW/PZTA-ones are only rated for 1W dissipation each.

    //UFN

    • Like 2
  4. Looks very impressive Kerry. Are the switchers MW IRMs? If so, I am working on something similar albeit with a more modular approach (PSU, post-reg and amp on separate boards) :-)

     

    I obviously can't see the PCB layout details, but if you are using two identical PSUs, why not stick with a pair of either the TPS7A47 or TPS7A33 regulators? That might also make it possible to use the TO-220 version of the TPS7A33 as well and then the whole board should be hand-solderable (?)

     

    //UFN

  5. On 28 Jun 2016 at 8:20 PM, Amar said:

    It's no wonder he's not accepting paypal, and it's indeed very much relating to being scammed-  This is the same scumbag who ripped me off 5 years ago thru Audiogon. The same set, I can confirm by the SN# on the SRE-750 box from a pic he sent me then:

    Ehm, I'm not saying it's not the same guy but that isn't a serial number but just a GTIN/EAN-code :mellow:. The 499 prefix indicates it's an item that's made in Japan.

    Could well be the same and all that, but this unfortunately doesn't prove it.

     

    //UFN

  6. Interesting work Kevin/Birgir (as always when something new comes out :) )

    Can I start by making a passionate plea for enlarging the board a bit so that tombstoning the resistors isn't necessary?

     

    //UFN

  7. If you want something universal then I can recommend the ones from http://www.engineer.jp/index_e.html

    Universal for small JST/Molex connectors with 2.0mm/0.1"/0.15" pitch: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21e.html

    Larger model for FAST-On style connectors (cable shoes I think they are called?) etc: http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa01_04e.html (the PA-01 model)

    Should be available on eBay etc. (unless you know anyone going to Japan where the prices are much lower :D ). 

    //UFN

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