UFN
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Posts posted by UFN
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1 hour ago, Blueman2 said:
mwl168,
Any chance of going forward with the GB for just the amp? I think some people (like myself) might go with another power supply for now.
Maybe take orders for the amp and the PSU separately instead? I'd at least still want a full set but I might consider adding an extra amp board - just in case. That would allow people to order amp boards only as well? Does give mwl168 some addition complexity in packing and shipping boards though.
//UFN
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Good initiative, but it might be good if we could get a more realistic cost estimate first? Spritzers $10 ballpark is just the factory FOB-price, so some estimate on what would be the final price (including shipping/import costs and a small contingency) would make it more realistic.
If you commit to 50pcs the difference between $12 and $18 per unit suddenly matters

//UFN
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17 hours ago, spritzer said:
Around the 10$ mark F.O.B. I'm sure the TKD's are around this level as well in these quantities.
Thanks. Even if the final price ends up being in $18-$20 range I'm pretty sure they'd go fairly quickly.
Of course doing this is either a ton of legwork to run a GB or quite a bit of risk for someone to front the cash, buy the lot and then sell them off afterwards. Not sure if we have volunteers for either?

//UFN
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That was what I was thinking as well, although I can't seem to find any data sheet for a 2SC32725...
DefQon: Not sure if you you already know, but 2SCxxxx is an NPN BJT in the Japanese system (2SAxxxx is the corresponding PNP). BCxxx in the European system is a silicon small-signal BJT, but no mention of polarity.
//UFN
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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread
in Do It Yourself
Ran into the same problem a while ago. and found two potential solutions:
1) There is an equivalent size (as far as I can see) with an M3-hole called the SK437 xx STS 2 from Fischer Elektronik (xx is length in mm.). However, note that only the STS 2 version has the right pin configuration for our use. Available from TME in the EU, but I haven't checked for other sources.
2) I mounted my parts with a (nylon) M3 screw, where I trimmed the head slightly with a Dremel-type tool so it would fit between the fins of the original Aavid HS, with an M3 nut on the device side. A bit of a faff to do, but seems to work OK.
//UFN