Mach3
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Posts posted by Mach3
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Thanks George,
As mention in PM seller stated it was working as the way I got it. Which makes sense because just swapping the brown and the grey still provided 120V with the jumper B on 1-4 & 3-6. It just doesn't give out 240V when I shorted out 3-4 because the two primary 120V wouldn't been in series.
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Ok found out the reason why fuse blown. primary and secondary winding was wired incorrectly to the terminal block.
Grey and brown mixed around.
I need to replace the transformer, did a continuality test on P1 and it failed.
I tried to contact [email protected] at Toroidal Engineering Co.
But GeorgeP inform me it looks like he's close door since COVID.
Anyone got a spare one for sell?
@Kerry do you mind sharing what specs you're using with your transformer. Alternative route I get toroidy custom make one base on the correct current specs below. They made a custom one for my KGSSHV.
Kevin mention that the total of the primary winding should be 90watts, so would 0.5 amp each for P1 and P2 be enough.
P1 = 120V, (unsure of current rating)
P2 = 120V, (unsure of current rating)
S1 = 15V - 0 - 15V, 1 amp (Kevin provided these rating)
S2 = 6.3V, 5 amps (Kevin provided these rating)
S3 = 6.3V, 5 amps (Kevin provided these rating)
S4 = 6.3V, 2 amps (Kevin provided these rating)
S5 = 6.3V, 2 amps (Kevin provided these rating)
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@jamesmking The amp been sitting gathering dusk for a while over 12 month up to 24 month. All tube been replaced with new quad matched one. Maybe the initial draw is too much.
Thanks @Kerry for clarifying what type of fuse to use, I'll replace the fuse with a new one and see how it goes. If it doesn't blow I'll replace it with a 2A fuse.
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On 8/12/2010 at 11:12 AM, kevin gilmore said:
I'm pretty sure its a 1.5 amp slow blow. (for 110 vac) But it might be a 2 amp. Too lazy to go and look.
Definitely not more than 2 amps.
updated schematics with a couple of resistors labeled as to power, and default of .5 watt added.
I will have to look tomorrow on the fuse... Its never blown the fuse yet. Not even with 24 hours of CJ.
On 10/17/2016 at 7:12 PM, hfhimeka said:Today, my DIY T2 has successfully come to life! After a year on and off working on this amp on my kitchen table, I was able to power up today and get music playing.
All 4 batteries are sitting around 743V. The +/- voltages for each channel are surprisingly well balanced, and both L and R sit about +10V offset at power-on and gradually get down to about 2-4V offset at steady state. I measured the heatsink temperature -- looks like it's steady at 124F/51C after about 3 hours continuous burn-in.
A shoutout to GeorgeP for enabling this build--one of my good buddies helped me reached out to you about a year ago for the case/amp board/torroid set.
Thanks KG, Spritzer, and everyone else who posted all the useful information on every aspect of the amp on this thread. I learned a lot through the process of building this amp!
One interesting thing I found while testing the PSU was that when I had both HV toroids hooked up and powered, the combined inrush blew through my 3.15A slow blow fuse (at 120VAC from the wall). I take it that the inrush of the 2x HV toroids (at least on my toroids) are pulling closer, but not quite, to 4A, since I was able to power up one HV toroid with a 2A fuse that I had left over. I have a 5A slow blow in there now, and so far no issues!
-Kuen
What is the correct value for the fuse in the DIY T2, Kevin stated shouldn't be no more than 2A.
However in a much more recent post, Kuen used a 5A slow blow fuse.
I'm using the same amp as Kuen, built by George.
The amp I'm using was from US with operating voltage set to 120V with a 4A slow blow fuse.
I've change the operating voltage to 240V (I'm in Australia) using the same fuse.
After turning on the unit for about 40 seconds, I see the tubes warming up.
Then the power went off, no pops, not burnt silicon smell, just a blown fuse.
Any advice would be much appreciated on what fuse to use.
I've got a bunch of 4, 5 & 6.3 amp fuse, just not 2 amp fuse.
I'm too paranoid to use any of the 4, 5 & 6.3 amp fuse.
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Long overdue update.
I ended up sending my panels to Kent at Electrostatic Solutions 2 years ago.
Cost was very reasonable, Kent gave me detail instruction on how to put the panels back and connect everything back up.
I also took detail picture and notes as well before sending them off. It was about 3 weeks turn around.
Spoke to Kent on advice in regards to proper amp to power them, safety mod etc.
The stock safety circuit resistor 2W 12Ohm needs to be swapped with 10W 12Ohm to prevent the panels from arching.
Causing holes in the panel's membrane.
Tube amp are best to drive them due to the speaker impedance curve.
Kent mention he uses the ARC REF300 300 watts to drive his F81 and F83 (Basically 2x F81 stacked 3db louder lol)
He can achieve 98-100dB peaks before clipping about the limit of the F81 design.
I'm using a Primaluna Premium amp 8x KT100 which output about 100watts. I get about 92db peak.
The speaker are very touchy with placement. but are absolute divine once position correctly.
Can listen to them for hour with no fatigue what so ever.
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Can buy a Merc with that collection...
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3 hours ago, nopants said:
I have one of Birgir's Omegas, I'm mildly curious to compare the O1 O2 and X
That price tag is brutal though
I'm sure if you're patient, Birgir will buy an X9000 and tell us all how good or shit it is, maybe even pull it apart. Birgir still got a few SR-Ω lying around to compared?
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X9000 because it tops the 9000. X is eXtreme version of 9000. It nice looking and all but I don't get why they didn't bling it up a tad. Where the plain Jane headband meets the gimble with Stax lettering and indication of left or right.
Or maybe ditched the stainless steel all together with full carbon all round for weight reduction.
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Would have preferred they call it SR-ΩX to pay homage to the original.
Anyone with the Ω planning to get the X9000 to compare?
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You're not pull hard enough hahaha
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The cables looks like they're detectable, got photo of them detached?
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21 hours ago, kevin gilmore said:
stax mafia electrostatic portable in the works. would need the bias adjusted for the shure headphones.
ohhh.... portable carbon level for my Shure KSE 1500 me hoping.
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On 9/3/2021 at 5:17 PM, johnwmclean said:
Looks like a Chinese company that’s pricing using AUD.
I have wondered how they made their amps so cheap. What a steaming pile of crap.
No he just an Australian reseller for JR Audio in China.
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I know caps have about 20 years life span, didn't know that applied to mosfets too. Or is it longer than 20 years?
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On 1/21/2021 at 4:10 AM, Werner42 said:
Now I heard from many sides that the "Hifiman SUSVARA" outperforms all STAX-headphone combos by far, and that at different disciplines. So, it is said that Susvara reaches the same high resolution as a SR-009, paired with a good amplifier like the BHSH or the KGSSHV Carbon, but Susvara is better than STAX/BHSE/Carbon in all other compartments, i.e. bass, liveliness, full musicality, stage, spatial resolution. They say, Susvara is just the better headphone than any Stax.
So, my question now as a newbie (not a newbie on STAX but on magnetostats), are these claims real, is this true?
The people that made these claim obviously believes in fairies.
Anyway, statement or claim made by Cheap Fi Man should be taken with a grain of salt. First example, a lot more people prefers the HE-1 over the Shangri La Sr. After hearing both, I can concur as I have heard both at a dedicated headphone store. In regards to Susvara reaching the resolution of the 009, hahah that's Crap Fi Man marketing and fanboi at work.
As an advice, trust only your own hearing. Everyone hearing preference is different. Some people prefer 007, some prefer 009. Regardless how good something sounds poor build quality has no place in my book to commend 4-6k and above.
It would be very hard to find someone with the financial backing to get all these expensive gear to properly test and compare them. Not to mention even if you have funds, some of these uber summit fi stuff like the DIY T2 are unobtaniumly rare.
Which is likely the reason why stuff like this aren't discuss or bought to light often.
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Was there ever a commercial STAX SRX-Plus, or did it only exist in the DIY community?
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See that last post (blue binding) they cut the cable.
Check if you're has the same issue. If not all good.
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Yeah the picture I posted was for 240V setting. In some of the energizer Stax cut the wire for the 240V winding.
I had to resolder the winding using off cut wires.
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I did the same to mine about 2 years ago to my SRM-600 I think.
It had the cut wire to the 240v tap on the transformer, Spritzer help me with this.
Then gave me the correct information to sort the jumper for the voltage selection
. Should look like this.
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What's the generally consensus revolving around which energizer sound best with which electrostatic earspeaker.
Blue Hawaii for 007
DIY T2 for 009 & HE90 & HE60
Anyone got impression how the the nanotube sound with the above?
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You should try contact vesper audio, they can custom make the earpad for them that uses much higher quality lamb skin, super soft and durable and memory foam. I've had a few custom design done from them for my ESP 950, thicker angled pads that offer better seal. Did the same for my 007 Mk1.
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Here you go chocolate
Regarding Voltage input to the 007t
The power supply transformer has 7 tap on the input side:
Yellow= common (winding 1)
1 White=same as yellow (winding 1)
2 Green=100v tap (winding 1)
3 Purple=120v tap (winding 1)
4 Black=common (winding 2)
5 Brown=100v (winding 2)
6 Blue=120v (winding 2)Six jumper bar for voltage change number 1 thru 6
1 thru 4 are to select:1=100v 2=120v 3=100v 4=120v 5=220/240 6=100v/120v
So for 100v you install one bar each for 1,3,6.
For 120v you install one bar each for 2,4,6. You will need to do this for your 120v
For 220v/240v you install on bar each 3,5.Unscrew the two screw at the back
They remove the sStax plate covering the transformer
Carefully remove the board and change the desired voltage.
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According the the Edifier youtube clip. The Stax Japanese team will release the Omega successor when they are ready.
When are they ready: When they are ready
When will it be release: When they are ready
Edifier calls Stax japanese team, "What time frame you need for the new Omegas": We will let you know when we are ready
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In the new 353X they cut the wires so you can't change the voltages.
Did they just cut the wires connecting to the transformer terminals or they removed the winding altogether.
It's annoying using a step down transformer.
The Headcase Stax thread
in Headphones
Posted
Even though I already have a bargain DIY T2 with the link you sent me. I'm jealous, want one now.