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Posts posted by Aive

  1. On 3/20/2017 at 7:23 AM, Kerry said:

    I've got my controller boards working pretty well now with the digital attenuators.  I like the larger one because it has a really nice feel as you turn the volume knob (...yes I see it :P).

    I went and added a USB input to the board itself, though this is really overkill - which is why I did it.



    Here I'm updated with the TX / RX LEDs blinking away.



    EDIT: I've got to do one more round of cleaning...

    Hey Kerry - Just wondering, what motorised encoder/pot are you using? I tried googling the # on the sticker, but didn't turn up anything >< Putting my BOM for the boards together now :)

    Thanks mate.


    edit: I’m going with this one in case anyone else is interested, https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/688-RK16812MG099

  2. On 6/6/2019 at 4:09 AM, sbelyo said:

    Did anyone ever put this together with the selector boards that were run?  I was looking at AMB's setup for volume and selecting sources but I seem to remember somebody saying that his attenuator won't work with the amps here.  It would be cool to put this together with the SE/BAL to BAL/SE board

    I got a set of two boards I’m planning to build soon - too many projects but this has come back on the radar

  3. On 18 April 2016 at 1:57 AM, sorenb said:

    Every package has shipped and the sheet updated accordingly.

    For those participating in Dig.Att. Boards, Dig.Att.kit and Über amp boards, your have to look at each sheet to check your final remainder.
    Those with negative remainder means you have paid too much and will receive a re-fund of that amount.

    Please let me know when the package arrives.


    Currently double checking payments to be sure that the accounting is right, so don't act until tomorrow, thanks.


    Hey soren, did you manage to ship my package too? Just noticed there's no "shipped" status next to my name in the sheet that's all :) Thanks again for organising this GB.

  4. Yeh haven't been able to find some professional reviews - I'll keep digging around.

    I think the brand is fine, just not sure what caveats there are with mid-level bikes. Seems as though at this level, carbon bikes might not provide good value - too many sacrifices made in order to include a carbon fibre frame to hit price points. I might have to stretch the budget a bit more (as usual)...

  5. Hey all,

    What do you guys think about the Merida Ride 3000, Scultura 4000 series of bikes?

    I currently have a Merida T3 that I bought a few years ago - basically serves as a commuter bike. I ride daily to and from work, roughly 26 km a day - and I'm in quite a hilly neighbourhood. I don't really ride outside of commuting.

    I've probably ridden over 3,000 km over the past 2 years I've had the bike and think it's time for an upgrade.

    I'm not super passionate about cycling (as I am about audio gear) so I'm not really sure what I should be looking for in a mid-level roadster. I'm thinking carbon fibre just because of all the hills in my neighbourhood. Discussions here also suggest disc brakes are the way to go, so I'll probably include that in my considerations too.

    The most I could afford now is probably around $2k Aussie-D.


    Some links:



    I bought my original bike from this place and basically went to their site, filtered on carbon road bikes and sorted by price ><



  6. On 21 January 2016 at 11:38 AM, spritzer said:

    The Susy needs max 10K so I had to use some of my TKD's. 

    Hey Spritzer, just wondering, what do you mean by this? Is it a gain/stability issue to use a pot of say, 50K?

    Reason I ask is I'm interested in understanding what effects volume pot resistances have on amps - some people say it makes a difference, others say doesn't matter. I've had to replace quite a few old amps that have had 20 K input pots with 50 K ones just because I couldn't source any of the original ones...

  7. Saw a great post on this on DIYA a few weeks ago: 1215

    Think this guy's recommendation is similar to Spritzers...


    There are two features that are absolute must-haves for me:

    1. Temperature control
    2. Replaceable tips

    In addition, an auto shut-off feature can be nice to have. That's pretty easily implemented by a timer switch (available at your hardware store). Long-life soldering tips oxidize when they just sit at operating temperature. Tinning them periodically - as you would when soldering - takes care of the oxidation, but if you forget to turn the iron off, it could be a while before it sees fresh tin and the tip is now destroyed.

    The temperature control does not need to be continuously variable or even adjustable on the fly. I just want the temperature to be relatively constant when I'm working. I tend to use 600 ºF (315 ºC) or 700 ºF (375 ºC) tips.

    The replaceable tips are a must-have. Being able to install a 1.0 mm chisel tip for SMD work, a 1.6 mm chisel for leaded, and 6.3 mm chisel for when you really need the thermal mass and contact area is priceless.
    Yes. I prefer chisel tips. That's my personal preference. I find they're the ones that can provide enough contact area without overheating the components.

    I have personal experience with two brands that I will recommend: METCAL and Weller.

    My current soldering station is a METCAL MX-500 that I picked up in practically brand new condition for dimes on the dollar during the 2008 recession. I have both the regular hand wand and hot tweezers (nice for SMD rework!). 
    In the METCAL, the temperature is controlled by the tip and the heater is all the way down by the tip. This means nearly instant heat. I absolutely love it. Tips are changed by pulling them out of the wand and the soldering station comes with silicone pads so you can do this even when the tips are hot. 

    My previous soldering iron (still works, and I use it on occasion if I need something a bit more portable than the METCAL) was a Weller TCP, which I purchased in 1988. That's the workhorse soldering iron of many European electronics labs in the 1980ies and beyond. The TCP is practically indestructible. Changing the tip involves undoing a nut and removing the tube holding the tip. It's recommended that you allow the iron to cool before swapping the tip, so in that respect it's not as flexible as the METCAL. The temperature is controlled by the tip via the curie effect. 

    In the US, I've noticed a Weller WTCP, which is slightly different but functionally equivalent to the TCP.

    The Weller WES-51 is interesting as well. That's more of a soldering pencil. That one has a knob on the front for adjusting the temperature and the heater is pretty far down into the tip, though the heating element is part of the wand and not the tip. For SMD and leaded parts, the WES-51 is great. For larger parts, such as connectors, power pads (exposed DAPs), etc. you may want to have more heat capacity (more tip metal) available than the WES-51 has to offer.

    If you're pretty serious about building electronics and expect to keep going for years to come, I'd get a METCAL. I believe they're owned by OKI now, so look for that name as well.
    If you don't want to spend that much money, get a Weller WTCP.

    Those are my recommendations based on my own personal experience with the products. 



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