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bbest

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  4. and now for something completely different part 3

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Pars said:

    I personally prefer the CFP3 to a Dynahi, but I have only compared SE directly. The CFP3 is probably my favorite dynamic amp, but my SE Dynafet is awfully close (and better than an SE Dynahi in my opinion).

    I've never built a Beta22, but have heard them at meets (10 or more years ago). I don't recall being particularly impressed then, even though I have a lot of respect for Ti.

    And what difference between CFA3 and Dynahi? My balanced Dynahi seems more rude, more simpler then beta22. Last one very close to electrostatic sound.

  7. and now for something completely different part 3

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted · Edited by bbest

    Assembled my balanced Dynahi old version of 2004.

    dynahi1.thumb.jpg.9632310a5338b6b4cb24f0dc2d2bad14.jpgdynahi2.thumb.jpg.9ce7736d1afbf644f16eef6c51181585.jpgdynahi3.thumb.jpg.8ef36b344966f7e086335b76311f5160.jpgdynahi4.thumb.jpg.399c6dbde8c512780115ff58a99f024c.jpgdynahi5.thumb.jpg.8e40994a17efe9bd264bb93adf6b0e61.jpg

    Using it with HiFiman HE-6. Sound: entertaining, opened, dancing cheerful. Compared it with beta22.

    Have only couple of questions:

    * does it make sence to change main capacitors from Panasonic FC 470uF on Nichicon KG 680uF

    * DC offset without opamp +-10mV, with opamp OP27 +-2mV. Is it ok, left as is or try to make it better by changing on opa134 or something like this

    * does it make sence to make some other mods

    What you think?

    • Like 4

  8. Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted · Edited by bbest

    On 2/24/2023 at 2:21 PM, MLA said:

    I've sucessfully used stn0214 as replacement for ksc5026M as per JoaMat's recommendation in several other builds. Don't know the heat dissipation requirement for the position where they are used in KGSSHV, but someone more knowledgeable than me might chime in here. 

    Not so far ago it was expected in JUL-23 on mouser, but now shift to 19-Aug-24. So only stn0214.

    Quote

    btw I think I'm going to use STP8NK80ZFP instead of the obsolete FQPF8N80C, at a glance the specs looks very similar other than a different Id rating and speed.

    here said https://www.mouser.com/PCN/onsemi_Generic_PD24419ZB.pdf it could be replaced on FQP8N80C, but mouser also suggested STP8NK80ZFP

  10. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted · Edited by bbest

    On 2/6/2023 at 4:22 AM, jamesmking said:

    Here the latest T2 psus, I have modified the layout to provide more space around the rather hot R11 3W resistor and added vent holes to the pcb. The pcbs, transformers etc still fit inside a 400mm deep case without issue.

    ...

    This pcb is 220mm wide by 137mm deep and contains the -260V, -560V and +250V rails

    image.thumb.jpeg.ba35ce04c9d132e09c2874113890c141.jpeg

     

     

    tiny mistake: FQPF8n80s -> FQPF8n80c. But anyway, FQPF8n80c completely obsolete. May be it make sence to change it on FQP8n80c.

    PS: compared to previous gerber version

    fixed wrong silk for IXCP10M90S: KAG -> GAK, good 👍

    • Like 1

  15. Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted · Edited by bbest

    20 hours ago, Craig Sawyers said:

    It's an ONSemi part. I really don't know what has happened with ONsemi. They bought Fairchild and Sanyo, and have obsoleted most of the really useful audio parts. Anything remaining has ended up on ridiculous lead times.

    We're well beyond the Covid excuse, and I'm left with bungling corporate incompetence as the only explanation remaining

    so may be find some analog for KSC5026MOS, on Aliexpress some shops try to sell 1pcs for 24$ 🤔

  21. The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Helium said:

    Hi starcat. What are P/N of the connectors and housings and pins you are using?

    I'm tempted to try these. As far as my quick search revealed, pins and wire entry seals don't come in bundle and are sold separately, aren't they?

    My concerns is that CPC series seems to be rated for 250VDC/VAC only, and that there is no space between the thread and the gasket, which means that the gasket itself will be outside the panel/case. Any considerations?

    I used 3 different connectors, different for AC and DC. Something like this:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000011885330.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dG8z02S

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32814240840.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dG8z02S

  24. DIY cable gallery

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    On 10/24/2021 at 9:13 AM, jamesmking said:

    is the mill spec cable silver or silver plated?

    personally I have always found cables which are silver or silver plated to be bright, shouty and lack ambience. I only use un-plated copper cables. I use Cardas chassis wire for my builds and use Cardas golden reference for speaker, power and some inter-connects. Van den hull first is not bad but I think it lacks a bit of bass - its cheaper second hand than the Cardas. I even find silver plated/solid silver fuses to be bright.

     

    For my HiFiMan HE-6 were made custom cable with pure silver + UPOCC copper, proportion 1/3. And it sounds balanced and transparent at same time.

  25. stax mafia circuit boards see updated links on page 5

    in Do It Yourself

    Posted

    On 10/23/2021 at 9:01 PM, kevin gilmore said:

    here are the current google share links

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r3g2TAtBUaBdiMorTWX7yYgeJ7maQbYW?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7egryukiT7_TFlEQlBRejdVdDQ?resourcekey=0-nGWwBYQ_Uivj-ciBLYMeaA&usp=sharing

    someone please verify that both links are viewable.

    1. boards - ok

    2. documents - has 311 errors:

    Quote

    You are prohibited from downloading this document.

     

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