luvdunhill
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Posts posted by luvdunhill
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42 minutes ago, swt61 said:
Pretty good repair.
Just for knowledge acquisition - water based stains go on before an oil finish but oil based stains can go on anytime (including between coats?)
I need to grain fill a bit so my worry about adding a stain on first is that I blow through it as I am trying to fill in the pores with the oil finish.
I would prefer something I can apply anytime hence the question about a tint in the oil finish.
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19 hours ago, swt61 said:
Is the repair also Walnut, just lighter in color?
If so I would start with a strong brew of black tea. Keep applying the tea until the color is similar in tone.
1 teabag to 1 cup of boiling water should be about right.
Apply the linseed finish afterwards.
Thats correct. First photo is raw after the repair and second is one coat of the linseed finish. Think I need to go darker quicker without applying more finish coats..
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Hi all!
I am repairing a piece of walnut that broke off and am in need of a stain to darken and color match. I am not sure what the best approach might be - tinting a linseed based oil finish or applying a water-based stain and then finishing with the above oil based finish. Any suggestions?
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nice router table!
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19 hours ago, swt61 said:
I do have a bit of concern on this technology, as it's my belief that people can become complacent and get careless because of a false sense of security.
I dunno, one time I saw you put the wood in the wrong direction. Just saying.
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51 minutes ago, Voltron said:
Did you buy the festool adapter pad? I would think the holes would line up perfectly. Put the pad on without the mesh so you can see the holes lined up. Then put on the mesh disc..
Uh no. I see now. Sadly none at Woodcraft.
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I went team Head-Fi and found the cheapest thing that I am here to tell you is amazing. It seems to be good enough for my little project. I wish the holes lined up on the pad saver so dust extraction would be better though. Making a trailer storage solution for a sailboat using marine ply and epoxy.
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14 hours ago, Voltron said:
What do you mean there isn't an assortment? Festool has mesh discs called Granat Net in a range of grits. You need a special pad to affix them, but that is typical. Sorry if I'm missing your point.
There isn’t a multi grit option in smaller quantities - ya gotta pay $70 a box.
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Went to an acquaintance who has like all the green tools and compared the ETS EC 150 to the regular one. Actually preferred the non EC and just picked it up in 3mm. Super annoying there isn’t a mesh/net disk assortment. Specifically having an issue with west system epoxy clogging up the regular paper backed disks and looking to try something new out.
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The obligatory MOTMOTMOTMOT
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Nice! Definitely a step up!
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9 hours ago, VPI said:
https://youtu.be/u66TRn2LPRY?si=M0aSin86zDco1Xp_
I mostly watch for the music, but this is a compilation of making templates on a number of things to fill with scrolling.
Very cool. Needs more scrolling though.
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Is there a way to define an area and have a pattern design filled in that area, or are these designs just made for these specific dimensions?
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Seems reasonable. Team 5-pin approves.
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Very cool!
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Wow that’s super cool!
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1 hour ago, n_maher said:
I doubt any fix would make it look much better. I feel like I'm missing some overall perspective from the picture, like what is what, i.e. are you calling a "wall" something that's on the ground? But fixing/blending/hiding a joint in concrete generally doesn't last. Possible option would be some kind of coating that would span across the joint or if applicable, decorative trim to hide the gap/wave.
I see. So the steel pieces are the wall. If I secure it to the concrete on the right (yes Al is correct with his marking) then it no longer will be straight. If I don’t secure it, it will be nice and straight, but there will be a gap between the steel wall and the concrete on the right. I would need to fill it with some sort of coating (Sika makes a self leveling material and there is some you heat up as well..)
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I like things straight, what can I say.
So looking for advice. Do I attach my steel wall to the concrete and live with a wavy line, or leave a gap and fill it in later with concrete. I plan on using metal stakes and concrete on the back side of the not-so-great-wall so that would make it straight..
I already want to raise the wall a bit so this is just a dry fit to mark the holes for the to be concreted posts
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8 hours ago, Dusty Chalk said:
I felled a tree. Fell in exactly the direction I wanted it to, only a little bit of a barber chair.
I feel so outdoorsy.
Thanks to this video:
Axe? Chainsaw? We need more details!
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On 12/24/2023 at 4:16 PM, grawk said:
my 17 yr old daughter asked for vinyl for christmas and doesn’t have a turntable. so i got her a turntable and the record she wanted.
Cool. I got my son an Audio-Technica Sound Burger. It was a hit.
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On 12/12/2023 at 1:54 PM, swt61 said:
It should fit fine. The Metabo is the new name for Hitachi, and I know that the older Hitachi grinders used the standard wheels
It fit! Thanks! I opted to not test it out .. but ready when I feel up to it.
I submitted the warrantee form as well. I am not in a huge hurry but come Jan if I haven’t heard back, I think I will just order the EZS in a smaller capacity and move it into the larger bar.. that seems easy enough.
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1 hour ago, swt61 said:
No help here.
Jeff will suggest C4 again.
I don’t think I know what that is. I suppose I can buy a smaller clamp and just pull the mechanism off of it. I need something that be both a spreader and a clamper. These are quite old - we used them on the corner horns. I filled the warrantee with Bessey just now, we will see what they do.
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I recently had an occasion to use my clamp as a spreader. Worked great but I am now not able to get the bar back in the head. I have tried moving around these oblong disks inside with a knife but they won’t budge. Has anyone fixed their clamp or should I just see how the Bessey warrantee works..
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So I am trying to figure out if this wheel:
will fit on this angle grinder:
But I don’t have the angle grinder with me, it’s 4.5” vs the 4” diamond blade and I am not sure if the removable arbors can be put back on.. most 4-1/2” seem to be 7/8” anyways so I am probably fine..
any ideas?
I have about a foot of 1-2” thick Texas limestone (Lauder) need to trim off on my footpath and don’t want to buy another blade
this one might be too small but I am going to give it a shot and see if I can just chisel the rest off..
this one might be too small but I am going to give it a shot and see if I can just chisel the rest off..
Axpona 2024
in Meets
Posted
What about blutarsky? When is this thing