naiy8oaY
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Posts posted by naiy8oaY
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12 hours ago, mrmarbach said:
It’s obvious: it’s the Euro price in US Dollars.
Seriously: they want €7250 from me in Germany. Justin’s price equates to €4929, which plus VAT is €5858.
What’s the other €1400 for? Is it perchance a tax on stupidity?
Maybe. It's not taxes or duties anyway, since those are 0% for headphones. In Denmark, the X9000 is offered for 49999 DKK, or about 6724 EUR. Still 600€ more (at 25% VAT), but maybe there are other countries with more reasonable distributors.
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On 3/23/2021 at 12:48 PM, Playmusic said:
That sounds very promising if I understand it correctly.
Let us consider the case that the unloaded output voltage is 100 V (for one channel) and that the loaded output voltage is due to the output impedance of the amplifier 80 V.
Stax Headphones behave essentially like a capacitor. DC resistance is probably multiple Mega Ohm. Assuming you stay within the current (and voltage) driving capabilities of the amp, things should get complex, but I wouldn't expect a change even remotely as large as you postulate.
On 3/23/2021 at 12:48 PM, Playmusic said:So, when the headphone is plugged into one receptacle then the voltage at the unused receptacle is also 80 V which I can easily measure. (I found some diagrams on Stax wire configuration on the internet.)
That's accurate at least within the measuring accuracy you're going to get with an off the shelf multimeter.
On 3/23/2021 at 12:48 PM, Playmusic said:Is my understanding also correct that when another headphone is plugged into the second receptacle in parallel (with the same settings, in particular for volume control) the output voltage would drop, but still be equal for both receptacles?
As above, if the combined capacity (etc.) stays well within the capabilities of the amps, I wouldn't expect much of a change.
On 3/23/2021 at 12:48 PM, Playmusic said:Thank you very much for pointing out the simplification with the 1 mm hole. This was exactly my wish for posting in this forum that someone would point out a simplification which was not obvious to me.
And the idea with the clamp test probes is even better concerning cost and process. I now found the probes below which look suitable.
Thank you very much for your excellent feedback. I would give two likes if I could.
There are probes with a U shaped hook at the end. If you find one that allows you to bend that hook into a shape that wraps around the pins of the plug, that would probably be ideal. You'd still have to make sure that the probe doesn't cause any shorts, so just measure on the second socket if possible.
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10 hours ago, Spychedelic Whale said:
I don't get it.
If you are afraid you are choosing an costlier amp just because it has higher SPL, then just lower the volume on more expensive one and if you think the less expensive amp now sounds better, then your wallet thanks you.
He wants to (somewhat) objectively determine which of the amps is actually the best. To accomplish this, he absolutely has to level match them pretty precisely, and using a multimeter to do so is actually a very good choice. Otherwise the amp that is even slightly louder in the comparison will appear to sound better, masking any minor differences that may actually exist.
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13 hours ago, Playmusic said:
So, if you have comments on anything hazardous (either on health or product inegrity) in my description above when manipulating a Stax extension cable, please let me know. Maybe someone also comes up with an easy way to match volumes with high precision. Thank you!
For the Stax amps with two outputs, all the corresponding pins are connected in parallel. Assuming your selection only contains such amps, just plug your multimeter's probes into the correct receptacles and you're done.
If you still need to go with your idea with the extension cable, I think you'll only need to expose the bare wire enough so you can get the probes to contact it, so drilling a small hole with 1mm diameter would be sufficient. If you don't want to ruin a 100$ cable, just buy a pair of clamp test probes for your multimeter and attach them to the pins of the headphone plug and insert it as far as possible - it should still make proper contact. You'll need to be careful, and ensure that the probes you buy can actually wrap around the pins.-
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14 hours ago, OakForestAudio said:
AHHHH It's 650 EURO's for the shit box!
With a little patience, that's enough for a 2nd hand SRM-727. That really makes that Sirrah a bad deal.
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I'm wondering if that plastic part fits into "old' 007 mk2, and if STAX is willing to sell them separately.
billqs, could you take a few additional photos of that part and the port?
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1 hour ago, mtaifa said:
Hi folks,
How often do you guys swap out the pads on your SR-007's? I have a pair of MK1's, still using the original pads and they are starting to get a little too soft, and the dust protection is misshapen on one side, so thinking of replacing and/or refurbishing.
What pads are generally recommended? SR-007mk2's, SR-009 modded, or something else? Best place to source new ones?
Are there any guides for replacing the foam in the original pads? My searching skills fail me.
If the dust screen is disintegrating, it probably high time to replace those. I found the instructions for pad I had read so far somewhat unintuitive, but luckily there's a video by STAX with a thorough demonstration how to install the EP-007: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyRZFD8yv8Q
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On 10/10/2019 at 11:32 AM, Tachikoma said:
I have tried equalizing using EqualizerAPO based on reference FR charts. It transformed my KSE1500 into a $5 earbud.
Have you tried adjusting to a linear response or any of the Harman target response curves or a variation thereof?
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On 12/16/2018 at 12:15 AM, blenheim said:
Good point regarding the port mod. I guess I am looking for an excuse to play around with the 3D printer :).
You could still 3D-print molds and then build plugs from other elastic materials, I was thinking acrylic, sugru or silicone. Not sure if any of those are actually better than Blu-Tac. I'd buy a pair if you figure out a good material and were able to drop them off in Yaletown...
The Headcase Stax thread
in Headphones
Posted
Another cause for different prices is the duration of the warranty / guarantee. It's at least 2 years in the EU, but only 1 year in the US and Japan, if I'm not mistaken.