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Posts posted by VPI
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My main concern with the tried and true is that I did the shelf with that and sawdust seems to stick to it like crazy. Maybe I did not rub off enough of the excess, I kind of treated it like I do Odie’s with a sander buffing pad to remove excess.
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Thanks guys. Luckily none of you have to see it in person to pick out all the issues I have.
Next poll, which finish for this thing. I know Naaman used Tried & True and some big bench nerds recommend Waterlox and about everyone else recommends Danish Oil. Cannot decide.
Al, since you guys convinced me to add them to the other side I will only have 6-8 leftovers. If you want to use them on your bench let me know. The require a 1 5/8” Forstner, 3/4 auger and a Brad point 3/8” bit for the magnets that hold the dogs at whatever height you want.
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I will have some regular 3/4” dog holes on that side for the Veritas whatever dogs/hold downs. Might start getting Swiss cheesy, but I guess I can supposed use them with the 3/4 through holes made for the In-Kleind bench dogs.
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I bought 24 and at the moment only think I will need 7-8, so I am going to start putting dogs on everything.
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Yeah, probably just not supporting it properly but the saw worked very nicely.
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Makes sense. Moved to the dogs as the vice and ends were pissing me off.
1 hour ago, naamanf said:Figured a miter saw would have been the better option.
Not mine. Even with two rolling stands, getting the things up on the flexy stand and the rolling stands at the proper height led to an end slightly better than this one. I used a straight edge to set the stands as there is really no way to set them with the top on the saw as the thing flexes as soon as the top is on. The flex still happened so no matter how much I adjust one or the other rolling stand, if I had to move the slab again for the cut, immediate need to redo everything.
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Review of the Makita. Made the cut, almost as deep as a needed. Dust collection seems to be there for looks only as all the dust shoots straight out the front of the saw and I ended up with an end that is less square than when I started. Festool track squared for the straight cut and clamped to the work piece but evidently the Makita was leaning a bit. Might have to read a manual.
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It would probably do better at pasta than vicing. Been fighting it all day due to the completely twisted maple vice jaws. Of course the other Vice showed up without the jaws at all so not sure which is worse.
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I assumed, as they were so prominently on display as part of the design and based upon the cost of the table, that they are actually made of Vibranium. Knowing that, killer price for this piece.
Thinking about making an offer and saying the deal must include the sweatsuit and hammer.
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Unfortunately, if we built a trebuchet here at half-assed woodworking, it would undoubtedly fling the burning cloths directly into the finishing cabinet when the shitty build failed.
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Seems fairly cumbersome.
I did look at the big Mafell track saw there but it does not cut deep enough.I think I will just rig something up with a roller stand or saw horse.
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I see what you are saying.
My more pressing problem now is figuring out how to trim both tops to the same length. The shitty gravity stand for the Bosch will not support the tops for a straight cut so I either have to do it with the track saw and make cuts from both sides or build a temporary saw horse set up to support the tops while the shitty mitre saw cuts the ends.
Alternatively, trying to track down someone local with a real mitre saw station. -
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Happy Birthday Al.
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I assume that was after one of the 7,000 morphine pills required after your back went out.
Did not know those pills worked so well for hair growth.
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Woodworkers of Head Case unite!
in Do It Yourself
Posted
Applied a first coat of Tried and True on the base (ash). Kind of wish I had treated the Ash with a water based finish, as it went from looking okay to looking Home Depot lumber real quick with the yellow tint.