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KenW

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Posts posted by KenW

  1. Placed an order for some A900's through Audio Cubes on the 24th of September. Website mentioned nothing about the product not being available or back ordered. I sent an email asking if the product had shipped, but according to their customer service rep, they don't have weekend support so no reply was issued over the weekends.

    Called this morning and a rep informed me that the person I needed to speak with was out and he took my contact information and indicated I'd be getting a return call that day. No call came. I've played email tag with this bunch all day today and finally get word that they don't know what the problem with the warehouse is and that they may be looking for more favorable exchange rates from other vendors. So customers are left to sit, wait and wonder.

    Simply shoddy business. Order canceled and refund requested. If you choose to do business with them, I recommend you do it by phone and get names, product availability, etc. Personally, it will be a cold, cold day in hades before I send them another dime. Buyer beware.

  2. start your research here: World Electric Power Guide

    Most computer and electronic equipment have built in voltage adapters (i.e. universal voltage) and others have switches (e.g. some PC power supplies) that can be adjusted from 115V to 230V to cover worldwide voltage systems. In these cases, I'd suggest getting a local power cord that fits the power supply input; that should cover it. It's best to check the power supply section (i.e. the wall plug or the PSU input section on the equipment) of each unit to see what their specs are; most of the time with electronics you'll see "~100-240V, 50-60 Hz" printed on the power supply or wall plug (in which case you just need a plug adapter). Other times you will notice a switch (usually a red colour) that moves b/w 115 and 230 V settings - these will usually need a power cord change (again, no big deal).

    What you want to do is inspect the equipment and avoid taking units where the power supply reads "120V...60Hz". These units are designed for use in North/Central America only (for the most part), and WILL have some trouble even with a good transformer - most likely it will work for awhile (even if not exactly like it did in the USA), then just die an early death (irons, vacuums, microwaves, etc. usually follow this pattern).

    Here's an example - specs taken from Apple's Imac page:

    Electrical and operating requirements

    [*]Line voltage: 100-240V AC

    [*]Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz, single phase

    [*]Maximum continuous power: 200W (20-inch models); 280W (24-inch model)

    [*]Operating temperature: 50

  3. Ken, you're cousin should be careful as suspect quality may not be the only contribution to fried componentry. Keep in mind that many places in the world (Korea included, I'm pretty sure) run on 220V, 50 Hz AC systems. This means that even through your high quality converter/transformer, you're not adjusting the delivery frequency - this typically leads to under-volting (not a real word) and over-currenting (also not a real word), which will overheat parts and is a fire hazard if you're using power cables designed for 60 Hz systems (thinner wire is used). I hope this helps.

    Oriel

    Thanks, Oriel. Sounds like a real problem. Any suggestions on transformers or possible solutions? He's paranoid about frying his Mac and other electronics....and I don't know enough about transformers to help him.

  4. I've got a family member getting ready to spend a year or two in Seoul. He's been advised to pick up a couple of converters in the US before he leaves. Seems a couple of his colleagues picked up a unit or two that were of suspect quality which led to some equipment damage.

    Anyone here have some top flight units they'd recommend? I'll confess to knowing nothing about the converters, what's out there or what's good. Thanks in advance. Hope things are well with the Head Case gang!

  5. Forget Linksys. Grab an Airport Extreme or Express. Much better to work with. Had both and there's no comparison. Btw, tkam is correct. When you restart/reset your network, you need to power the modem up before the router. Also, be aware of your configuration as to which of the units is assigning the IP. Is your router going to fill that role or are you going to let it act as a bridge? Just something to think about.

  6. Like lostonetr I've also had a time or two where I regretted the purchase of Logitech gear. I have been wondering how I could put my extra SB3 to good use and a bedroom rig or perhaps a small setup in the living area next to the kitchen would seemed likely, but dac, amp, speakers, headphones, etc. Nothing seemed 'right'. If this plays out well, it might solve the problem. Then again maybe something like the AudioEngine line with the SB3 is a better option. Likely similar money involved. Interesting.

  7. I do wish I could be convinced a portable amp(even with the onboard dac) was anything more than an extravagant toy. It would be great to think I could get a Pico in MacBook Pro silver and have it serve as my office setup. I know I won't use it with my iPod/E500. Never have felt amping IEMs gave enough improvement to justify the cost and headache of carrying a portable amp. Still, this Pico intrigues me.

  8. Personally, I use the Transporter/Squeezebox to play FLAC on a network, external HD when I'm listening to my speakers. The MBP holds AAC @224 for the ipod. Of course, I can also play my iTunes AAC through the PS3 if I wanted the convenience of using the iTunes interface. So far the PS3 won't support FLAC, but I'm hopeful that's coming. Conversion of FLAC to AAC is with Max. Used Toast for a time, but the PS3 just wouldn't play the Toast version so I went with Max and it's been smooth sailing since.

  9. Personally, I use the Transporter/Squeezebox to play FLAC on a network, external HD when I'm listening to my speakers. The MBP holds AAC @224 for the ipod. Of course, I can also play my iTunes AAC through the PS3 if I wanted the convenience of using the iTunes interface. So far the PS3 won't support FLAC, but I'm hopeful that's coming. Conversion of FLAC to AAC is with Max. Used Toast for a time, but the PS3 just wouldn't play the Toast version so I went with Max and it's been smooth sailing since.

  10. If you're adamant about returning the cans to Grado, I think they'll do you right. I'd purchased a pair of RS-1's back when I was into headphones and felt underwhelmed with some of the cosmetics/fit/finish so I got in touch with Grado and they not only agreed to allow me to return those cans, but they hand picked the best pair they had from current inventory and got them right out to me. Pretty nice pair....and all on their dime. Grado did right by me. I'll agree that they should do better at quality control on their end. Stinks to have customers dealing with such issues.

  11. If you're friends with your family dentist, I'd ask him to use his air abrasion unit to prep the two metal parts where they join and use the JB Weld as suggested earlier. I can promise you that you'll not see those pieces apart again. Btw, be sure to use some barriers to protect the vital parts of the GS1000 from the aluminum oxide particles. A couple of rubber bands and sandwich baggies will do nicely.

  12. I'd like to stay under $1k. Actually, the further under $1K the better. She already has a nice laptop in the dorm. Just need a tough little unit with wireless to use during and between classes. Gotta be small. I can see where a small gal trying to lug a desktop replacement all over campus would tire of that quickly. I'm sure it's going to take a fair amount of abuse being carried around and theft is always a concern so I don't want to sink a lot of money into it. Cheaper is better. Word processing and wireless....that's about it.

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