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Tweeter on speaker not working


shellylh

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As I was setting up the New Marantz SR6005 receiver, I noticed that the sound coming out of the right front speaker was much lower than that of the left. I don't seem to be getting any sound out of the tweeter on that speaker. These aren't super great speakers (av123 X-SLS tower speakers) so I don't want to put much money into them. However, since I have spent a bit of money on audio stuff recently, I don't know what I want, I don't really want to get new speakers right now (eventually I will probably and get a full new 5.1 setup). Is there anyway I can check if the tweeter is blown? If so, could I get new tweeters (probably would need to get new tweeters for both so they match)? Would these be easy to install (I can do basic soldering). Could this be a crossover problem?

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Generally a blown tweeter still emits sound, albeit a raspy sound. It sounds more like a connection/crossover problem. I suppose it could possibly be the tweeter though. Unfortunately I've had my own share of difficulties due to AV123's less than stellar quality control.

Check your connections to the tweeter first, then go from there.

Also Shelly, I have a nice pair of speakers I could send to hold you over until you are ready to purchase something. They're just sitting in storage anyway.

Edited by swt61
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I blew a tweeter on my Von Schweikerts when I was messing around with a DEQ2496 and it wasn't putting anything out. I would agree with others that connection problems would be the first thing I would check out. If you have a multimeter (DMM) and can disconnect the tweeter you could ohm it out. Blown would probably be open on the meter.

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OK, first I am going to try and figure out how to open this up. Not sure what I will do if I can figure out how to do that. I tried taking off the tweeter from the front but I couldn't see much that way.

Thanks for the offer Steve. I'll let you know if I get desperate. I do have an extra pair of crappy Best Buy speakers sitting around that I can use if these drive me crazy too much.

Maybe I should just start thinking of getting new speakers...

Edited by shellylh
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OK, tried to open up the speakers but couldn't figured out how to do it. They seems to consist of pieces of wood that are glued together and I don't think I can get them open without completely ruining them. :(

Guess I will be looking into options. Have any suggestions for nice looking (i.e. wood colored), decent sounding floorstanders that don't cost a fortune. Would be useful if they also have matching surround speakers and center channel since I might go that way as well. Hubby won't let me have giant ugly black speakers.

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You probably have to take out the drivers to get inside. It looks like you can unscrew the tweeter, so that will let you test it.

qrceia.jpg

Assuming this is what your speakers look like, the four outer screws on the tweeter should be all that holds it to the cabinet. Unscrew them and do the test Chris suggested.

Edited by cetoole
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Ok. I didn't think there would be enough space that way (getting to the crossover and other things through the woofer driver hole). I will try that tomorrow (and see if something is obviously disconnected).

Yes, I can remove the tweeter. Do I need to desolder the tweeter to test it? (I am assuming that is what you meant by disconnect).

Edited by shellylh
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That's too bad about the speakers, and I'd worry it will be hard to find replacement parts. I have a pair of AV123 X-static tower speaker that I love to death, and know that Mark and his wife have vanished and even turned off the home phone number. Mine were a display set from RMAF one year and I don't have the grills, and I can't find the grills anywhere to complete them. One of my two AV123 Onyx Rocket 10" subs died as well. So I hope it all works out well for you.

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I'm pretty sure that a suitable replacement for the tweeters could be found.

As for your sub HA, if it's the UFW-10 the drop in replacement is the Dayton Audio plate amp...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

It doesn't have as much power, but people have been having great success with it, as have I with both of my UFW-10s. The original amp, and it's later replacement from AV123 were pure crap.

The drivers are quite good though, and they're worth the few minutes required to replace the amps.

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Ok. I didn't think there would be enough space that way (getting to the crossover and other things through the woofer driver hole). I will try that tomorrow (and see if something is obviously disconnected).

Yes, I can remove the tweeter. Do I need to desolder the tweeter to test it? (I am assuming that is what you meant by disconnect).

Shelly,

You could try ohming the tweeter out without disconnecting it, and compare it to the good one. That might tell you enough to decide how to proceed with these. Parts Express or Madisound are good places to look if you need a replacement driver. If you replace it with the same thing (if they are still available) you might only need to replace the bad one. That is what I did on my speakers.

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I'm pretty sure that a suitable replacement for the tweeters could be found.

As for your sub HA, if it's the UFW-10 the drop in replacement is the Dayton Audio plate amp...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

It doesn't have as much power, but people have been having great success with it, as have I with both of my UFW-10s. The original amp, and it's later replacement from AV123 were pure crap.

The drivers are quite good though, and they're worth the few minutes required to replace the amps.

Thanks for that, I only just saw this reply. I'll check into that.

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Haven't gotten around to opening it up again. I may do it today. I have thinking more and more about getting new speakers for the living room. I never really liked the sound of the X-SLS that much. I did really like the Ascend CMT-340 SE that I had in my office a few of years ago but they are pretty ugly and wouldn't get the hubby approval factor (basically, hubby wants nice looking speakers - no giant black speakers). Since I like the Ascend products, I was thinking of getting the Sierra-1 with some stands but I am not sure they would work that great for HT being bookshelves. I haven't heard them but it they are better than the CMT-340, I am sure they would be great. The other product I was thinking of was Monitor Audio RX6. I heard the RS6 a while ago and liked it but my listening preferences may have changed since then. Many others complain that it is too bright but these may be the same people who like the muddy sound of AV123 products. Maybe a new thread is in order.

Edited by shellylh
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Thanks for the offer Marc but I am leaning towards some speakers where I can have a matching tweeter (and they have to have HAF).

I disconnected both speakers from the amp and opened them up. I checked resistance across both tweeters and woofers and they were about the same (~0.6 ohm for tweeter and ~5.8 ohm across the woofer). I should note that my multimeter reads ~0.3 ohm when I put connect the two leads). So it looks like I am going to have to disconnect the tweeter before I can really test it?

Another question: If a speakers has a blown tweeter or short or something, could this damage my amp? I have been using my new amp and the damaged speaker for the last week. I would be *very* sad if I had damaged it already. sad.png For now, I have disconnected both speakers and am using a pair of old BB Insignia bookshelves in their place. The amp seems to be ok.

Edited by shellylh
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Thanks for the offer Marc but I am leaning towards some speakers where I can have a matching tweeter (and they have to have HAF).

I'm not sure what a matching tweeter means, but I can send a pic if you would like. They are white two ways sitting on a stand with solid wood sides and a smoked black plexiglass front. Good luck finding something!

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Snipped the wires to the tweeter and tested it. It measures "infinite" resistance. I guess that means the tweeter is blown. Any way I can find out what kind of tweeter to replace it with (or what to replace both with)? I don't see any markings on it.

Edited by shellylh
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