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HC Bike/Cycling Thread


boomana
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Xavier finishing his first ever Time Trial. He came in last in the junior division, but he was the only kid in Chattanooga to even compete. 7 kids in his age group (9-12) and the other 6 were split evenly between two teams which came from at least 2 hours away, and almost every kid had Zipp 303, 404, or 808s... but one had some deeper-than-808 Reynolds wheels.

We went out on a ride with a septuagenarian friend of mine about 2 hours after this pic was taken, and we got in an hour ride. When we were packing up after that ride, he told me "I forgot how much I love riding!"

<3
IMG_6839.jpg

**BRENT**

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32 minutes ago, luvdunhill said:

Can anyone recommend a cheap ($40?) repair stand that I can use to tune-up my bike and the kids? Prime is a plus, but willing to order anywhere.

I looked and looked for a cheap repair stand back when I was looking for Xavier's road bike (see race finish pic above.) I came to the conclusion that there's really nothing you want to touch under 100-130. I'd just find a proper-height tree branch and hang it from the saddle and work on them like that.

I have a hanging-from-top-tube hitch rack, and that seems to work fairly well for my bike, but YMMV for kid bikes with that solution.

**BRENT**

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Guys, I´m thinking change my Ultegra 6800 36/52 by a Dura-Ace 9000 34/50. Yes, I know that the new Dura-Ace is here, and the ultegra versión is more cheaper but 9000 versión has a good price now and I need change... my 36/52 is great for flat stages or médium mountain but here we have steep ramps and sometimes I suffer a lot with this development. (rear I used a ultegra 11/32)

Ok, I know that a 36/52 with 11/32 is "similar" to 34/50 with 11/28 but the "feeling" on long mountain pass is very, very different.

What do you think?

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Thanks. It´s the problem of the Shimano bottom bracket. You can´t change the ring. You can change the rings but only  with certain combinations for example, you can´t put a 34 with a 52.

On my case, if I buy the dura-ace 9000 I will have two bottom bracket (DA 32/50 and Ultegra 36/52) and I would change.

(Change the bottom bracket no the rings)

Edited by jose
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It's my understanding that with DA9000 I can switch from 50/34 to 52/36 if I want or even 53/39 because they all are the same BCD. Therfore just switch the rings if you don't like it. I think you mean crankset when you say bottom bracket.

I love the shifting in my Di2 but I still to this day tend to press the wrong buttons when in a rush.
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With Shimano you cannot mix the compact with regular chainrings because of the shifting ramps.

The large 52 ring doesn't like shifting to smaller than 36 inner ring. It works but it is easier to drop a chain.

You can run the compact 50 outer ring with the regular inner rings e.g. 50/39 with no problem. 

I don't think the bottom bracket impacts the shifting.

Ride safe!

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Thanks guys.

I don´t know if my Ultegra Di2 will have problems with the different rings and the ramps between them. My ideal will be 52/34 but this is the problem: The 52 ring doesn't like the 34 ring.

The price of an Ultegra 6800 (50/34) is around 155€ and the Dura Ace 9000 (50/34) is 344€. Is a big difference.

I need time for thinking about this.

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After 20 years of not riding, I fixed up my 40 year old Claud Butler Sovereign a couple of weeks ago. Of course bike technology has undergone at least one and possibly two revolutions since I bought mine.  Reynolds 531 tubing and forks, 27 x 1-1/8 wheels, Campognolo changers and downtube shifters.  Stonglight crank set with 52/36.  At some point I had replaced the rear 5 speed wide ratio rear gears with a close ratio 6 speed. All the grease was like tar (the balls were even stuck together!), so it was a complete strip down and very careful clean, replacement of all balls with grade 10 and relubed with some fancy teflon-loaded grease. New chain - Shimano with some sort of useless quick link which I ditched and just used a chain tool.  Replaced the grippy but heavy tyres with a pair of lightweight NOS Continental UltraSport ones from eBay (NOS because of the now obsolete wheel size). Even buckled down to learning how to true wheels, since mine had take a bit of a battering on UK roads when I was still riding.

Weighs in at 11kg all up.

It is what now classifies as a "retro bike". :lol:

Anyway - it uses pedals with clips and straps, and I used to have a pair of bike shoes with the correct old-fashioned cleats.  But I seem to have thrown them out at some stage. So it looks like the next thing that is needed to effectively get the thing on the road (apart from shaking out rebuild gremlins around the close) is some clipless pedal and new bike shoes/cleats. Any recommendations that won't break the bank would be most welcome.

I'm kind of working up to the inevitability of falling off at some point; I still recall how much that hurts.

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