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HC Bike/Cycling Thread


boomana
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mountain bike shoes and pedals have the advantage of being walkable, if that matters.  

 

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2MLU7RJKZVBL3&coliid=I3AR38GS47XPRI&psc=1

Those are the pedals I use, with some shimano mountain bike shoes I got from REI on sale years ago.

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I am currently running some cheapo VP pedals.

Not sure how much the mini platform adds but otherwise no complaints.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O9XZA5O

 

If I was buying today it would prolly be the A530 pedals linked above.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Pedals

Jenson also has the Shimano SH-M065 Shoes for a decent price

http://www.jensonusa.com/Sale/Shimano-SH-M065-Shoes

And there's a coupon for first time buyers.

http://www.jensonusa.com/Coupons-and-Promotional-Codes

Edited by Mister X
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You can use some appropriate shoes (non-cleated) with your current toeclip/strap setup. Adidas Samba soccer shoes apparently work pretty well. The old Avocet shoes were great though (model 30), used to win RAAM in the '80s.

As for the wheels, what kind of hubs? You could rebuild them with 700c clincher rims (Velocity, Mavic, etc.), new stainless spokes, etc. This would open up your tire selection, though you can still get some tires in 27", such as Panaracer Pasela. It wouldn't be much of a stretch to spread the rear to 126mm for std. 6 speed / ultra 7 freewheels. You would have to replace the axle for the rear hub with the appropriate length and increase the spacers a bit for that.

The frame could be cold set to 130mm for a modern group also, but getting harder to find in silver alloy. Stuff like what jose just bought doesn't look at home on a vintage frame. Wiggle / Ribble / Probikekit, etc. have pretty good pricing on many groups, but you will also need wheels. Or grabbing a donor bike would be the most cost effective. Should all be English (BSC) threading. Many time you can use the existing crankset, though the modern ramped ring ones will shift a bit better.

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When you replace the 27" wheels you may also need to have longer reach brake calipers depending upon how they are mounted. I ran into this problem when updating my 1984 vintage Panasonic. It limited my brake choice but was worth it in terms of a much broader tire selection. Also I was able to spread the rear stays myself to put in a modern 130mm rear group. I made a spreading jig from some threaded rod, bolts and wooden shims. It insured the spreading was symmetrical.

Edited by morphsci
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Yep. 27" wheels are ISO 630 while 700c are ISO 622, so you will need 4mm more reach on the brakes. Sheldon Brown (RIP) has a section on his site regarding cold setting. Your Panasonic was probably already 126mm for 6 speed. Spreading a 120mm 5-speed frame requires a bit more care, but you are still only opening it 5mm per side.

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7 hours ago, Pars said:

You can use some appropriate shoes (non-cleated) with your current toeclip/strap setup. Adidas Samba soccer shoes apparently work pretty well. The old Avocet shoes were great though (model 30), used to win RAAM in the '80s.

As for the wheels, what kind of hubs? You could rebuild them with 700c clincher rims (Velocity, Mavic, etc.), new stainless spokes, etc. This would open up your tire selection, though you can still get some tires in 27", such as Panaracer Pasela. It wouldn't be much of a stretch to spread the rear to 126mm for std. 6 speed / ultra 7 freewheels. You would have to replace the axle for the rear hub with the appropriate length and increase the spacers a bit for that.

The frame could be cold set to 130mm for a modern group also, but getting harder to find in silver alloy. Stuff like what jose just bought doesn't look at home on a vintage frame. Wiggle / Ribble / Probikekit, etc. have pretty good pricing on many groups, but you will also need wheels. Or grabbing a donor bike would be the most cost effective. Should all be English (BSC) threading. Many time you can use the existing crankset, though the modern ramped ring ones will shift a bit better.

Already tried a selection of shoes, and anything resembling a tread or resilience in the sole makes it essentially impossible to insert the other foot on the fly. Wish I hadn't tossed my old hard soled cleated shoes.

Also, the price of new cleatless pedals and shoes (as above) is only UKP30 more than a pair of Samba.

Phew - fit a new rim and spokes - that sounds like a brave and expensive option; I guess it would need a truing jig too. I suspect that if I was going that way I'd probably just go for new wheels, or a junker bike to scavenge parts.  The brakes would cope with 700c though - there is plenty of travel on the (Weinman) brake shoe slots to cope with 4mm more.

Oddly I have not have to spread the stays.  The 5 speed cluster had additional spacers that I removed to fit the 6 speed, still with sufficient clearance for the small sprocket.

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Last weekend was the Civil War Century and it was 96F, super sunny. That made for an interesting ride. I fared well, but it was pretty exhausting. Took plenty of electrolytes. With the Hammer Endurolytes didn't get any cramps or pains, so that was great. For me, these work better than SportLegs.
 

Cheerio!

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Xavier and I did a 25.75 mile training ride today. My Garmin was set for run instead of bike and I missed a bit, but we averaged almost 14mph with the first 8-10 at a 17mpg avg. We couldn't hang with my friend on her tri bike training for an Ironman, but Xavier killed it today!

32db381e8a5bc78ea5e062c2f65e5b67.jpg

**BRENT**

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...

Seeing your bike is enough to get me back out on the road.  

For the time being I am trying to pick up a gravel bike for some great crushed gravel trails I have in my neighborhood.  Looking at some Cyclocross bikes and some gravel bikes ranging from a low end Diamondback w/ Ultegra Diamondback to a Niner Cyclocross CC or Gravel Gravel or a Pivot w/ Ultegra Pivot

Just looking for something basic so I am leaning towards the super cheap Diamondback, but the others appeal more to my snobbiness.  :-)

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Jeff,

I honesty choose bikes based on whether or not they look like something I'd ride.  Honestly.  I look at the Jekyll, giggle like a little kid and go hit the trails.  Based on that sophisticated analysis method my $$ would go towards the CC.  

In actual riding news I got out on a very nice, 7.5mi MTB ride this afternoon after work.  I'm not sure there's a better way to end a work day.

 

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