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HRE's are nice but they're proud.  

You might want to have a look at Forgestar's rotary forged wheels.  Great value for money.  Weight is right, you can get them in a variety of colors, sizes, lug patterns and offsets, and I've run them up to high speeds in a heavy car...they're sound.  I use them for my standing mile runs and recently bought a set for the street.

Best of luck.

HS

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23 hours ago, HemiSam said:

HRE's are nice but they're proud.  

You might want to have a look at Forgestar's rotary forged wheels.  Great value for money.  Weight is right, you can get them in a variety of colors, sizes, lug patterns and offsets, and I've run them up to high speeds in a heavy car...they're sound.  I use them for my standing mile runs and recently bought a set for the street.

Best of luck.

HS

Enkei is another option I can recommend for rotary forged wheels. I have a set of their 18" Raijin wheels and like them a lot. http://enkei.com/shop/tuning/raijin/

Enkei's been around for a long time and has manufactured wheels for Formula 1 cars. 

Edited by mwl168
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Agreed...ENKEI has been around for dog years and has proven itself on and off the track.  For the longest time what I saw was they focused on the imports (read:  predominantly Asian makes and smaller cars that are smart for road racing at least here in the U.S.).  They've expanded and are now offering larger wheels which is a very cool option for those of us with big gals...  

I run 20's on the street on my plus size girl.  I had to go with 19's for the standing mile stuff as the Hoosier R6 was the only real game in town with any traction that could handle the speeds, provide some traction and pass tech.  Now there's a Hoosier R7 but I've still got a lot of life in the R6's so I haven't tried them yet.  

These are the 19's I had Forgestar make for me a few years back...

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These are the new street shoes I just had made.  Installed last month...

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HS

The weenie rear brakes are my drag race setup so I can get a 15" wheel on for a big sidewall tire....me no likey but they get the job done.  The StopTechs I use for the standing mile are sooooo much better.

HS

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So I'm waiting to hear back from the insurance on my diminished value claim. The valuation came back at $2.7k but I doubt they will give me that. I'm hoping they give me enough to pay for some autocross upgrades. My dilemma is do I get the ridiculously light OZ Ultraleggera or do I get Moda MD22 and Koni adjustable dampers for the rear (not available for the front). The tires will be Bridgestone RE-71R which are the kings of Autocross.

 

 

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So I'm waiting to hear back from the insurance on my diminished value claim. The valuation came back at $2.7k but I doubt they will give me that. I'm hoping they give me enough to pay for some autocross upgrades. My dilemma is do I get the ridiculously light OZ Ultraleggera or do I get Moda MD22 and Koni adjustable dampers for the rear (not available for the front). The tires will be Bridgestone RE-71R which are the kings of Autocross.
 
 

Ask Brian about the wheels and tires and suspension for your car. Also, did you wind up keeping the Strano bar?

I imagine there are some other wheel options too. Which class are you looking at?

**BRENT**

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So I am driving the van this morning and out of the blue I see a crack appear in the windshield. Right in the middle, starts up from the bottom, makes a 90 degree angle and keeps going. So far it's about 16 inches from the passenger side edge. Fuck. If I had not seen it happen, I wouldn't believe it... no impact at the moment, and none that I've witnessed. I can't rule out a rock or something else hitting the glass when the car was parked. But the crack starts right at the bottom of the glass, weird. So, the crack is likely to run all the way to the edge. The migration was fast when it appeared and it slowed down, seems to have stopped at about 15 inches from the edge.

So should I stick to the dealer for a windshield replacement? If not, any recommendations for glass places? (Like Tire Rack for glass?)

Yikes

 [edit] attached a pic.

 

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That really sucks Juan. OEM glass is expensive but very good. That said I've done Safelite twice and been happy (though I did have an issue they needed to fix one time). Just make sure that they are giving you glass with the same blacked out areas, and transition pattern.

I should remember the real name for that black application because I read an article about it a few weeks ago but I don't.

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The whole thing was so bizarre. We were just staring to drive when I noticed the crack moving, at first my brain registered as "water" but then I thought wait, its moving upwards, then the 90 degree turn, and it hit me what was actually happening.

Need to check for glass places, but OEM may better quality by your comment. Thanks Chris


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Yeezh.

I've only replaced my windshield a couple times, but I've never used factory glass. I just use one of those companies that comes out to you.

And since what you saw happen was factory glass, I would say it's likely not superior. One of the possible explanations is there was a flaw in either the glass or the installation. Alright, two.

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6 hours ago, Dreadhead said:

That really sucks Juan. OEM glass is expensive but very good. That said I've done Safelite twice and been happy (though I did have an issue they needed to fix one time). Just make sure that they are giving you glass with the same blacked out areas, and transition pattern.

I should remember the real name for that black application because I read an article about it a few weeks ago but I don't.

I had nothing but bad luck with Safelite and non-OEM glass, back when my ex-wife's car was vandalized over and over.

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I used Safelite on the RLX about 2 months ago without an issue. I turned it in last weekend so no idea on how it would have been long term. My daughter also used them for her 2005 Honda Civic and it seems to be okay so far. They are timely and convenient at the very least. Since I don't own my cars, I don't really care what parts they use as long as they do what they are supposed to do.

Picked this up a week ago:
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Have an appointment for Monday. Let's see how it goes. So far the phone communication was sluggish. They were supposed to call me yesterday, never did, I had to get on top of it to close on the appmt date. Maybe I just got an incompetent employee because I was wondering if it takes this long to verify with insurance (who supposedly sent them the all the info yesterday) and schedule an appointment, phew...
Went with the OEE glass, supposedly has the shaded area as the OEM.



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Private track rental at Royal Purple Raceway yesterday.  It's called the Quick 30 but 40+ cars registered...LOL.  It's a pretty good deal.  You pay about $300, you get to run all you want with little to no queue and the track prep is phenomenal.  They also feed you and generally there's a track photog shotting pics and vids.  Very nice setup and one gets to meet some cool folks from all over the state and in yesterday's case the gent with the rail car (dragster) was from Minnesota...brother lives in Austin.  Cool car.

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I made four passes.  Was trying to shave a tenth off my personal best and figure out a few things.  I played around with tire pressure on the drag radials (was definitely running them too low previously), raised boost a smidge for the conditions that day, locked up the converter earlier which was likely the biggest benefit, and ramped in my boost more quickly as the track was holding everything I threw at it.  Can't underscore how few times I've been able to state this about track prep...it was awesome.

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My new personal best...got my 8.7.  I might find an 8.6 on a perfect day and leaning on her a bit more, but I'd likely need to take the risk of lifting the heads at this point or making changes I doubt I'll make.  

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Interestingly, I rotated my wheel inside the tire 8" in four passes.  Beadlocks or the cheap screw through the wheel approach would be the solution.  Not sure I'm willing to do that at this point but I now know why I haven't been able to get my 60ft time lower despite leaving at higher rpm....whoops.

HS

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