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LOL...yeah, pretty much.  Here is the bastage that caused all the drama.



I was able to save the heads with a bit of work.  Here is a shot of the heads being repaired.  Only one hole was an issue, but there were o-ring grooves in them previously for a certain copper gasket I've given up on so I had them filled and decked.  Definitely changed from the POC Manley to a Rev race valve.


Cleaning up the hole from hell...you can see some of the damage still


Buttoned back up with the new hardware



New Diamond 2618 allow pistons


300M rods...


Higher capacity oil pan...


Billet main caps



Assembled short block with a forged Scat crank and a custom cam made for boost...lift is relatively tame










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I am starting to rethink my Koni's as I bet that I'm better off spending the $340 on some race rubber and I am now thinking that I see what the sway bar+rubber does first. If I install them in an adjustable manner it involves modification of the steel and interior to get the knobs to be accessed.

Doing only the sway bar has the added advantage of being super easy to reverse and allow me to go back to stock for trade in. Of course by the time I think of this they had already arrived.

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Modifying in stagest/increments has the added benefit of seeing what each element does for you, especially if you keep track notes.  

A proper sway bar can make a nice difference.  Proper rubber...invaluable and you won't unnecessarily tear up your street tires.  If you can return the shocks w/o a material hit, then mod in stages as you've suggested and see if you're happy.  If you are, return them.  If not, slap those puppies in there.  

What I don't know is what quality of shocks & springs / coilovers you have now.  It made a huge difference for my car, but I made a pretty signicant change also.  My damn car looked like a chuck wagon before I installed a proper suspension a few months after purchase.


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I can't modify my springs and stay in GS. The car handles great already but is actually a little tail happy which the sway bar improves a lot.

Apparently the shocks help you get a wider handling sweet spot. People basically say the shocks don't make you faster but make it easier to go fast.

I ordered them at the same time because I thought it would be worth doing both but as I look at wheels and rubber it gets harder to see the value of one upgraded corner vs the advantages described.

We'll see what the return shipping will be to tire rack and make a decision

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Need new tires on the X5 and thinking about taking the opportunity to finally ditch run flats, which flat out suck. (Particularly with 315 rears. Tramlining? Er, yeah a bit.:blink:) But I don't have any kind of spare, because BMW. If I just keep a 12V compressor and a couple of cans of repair goo in the car, am I still being a responsible road user?

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28 minutes ago, Hopstretch said:

Need new tires on the X5 and thinking about taking the opportunity to finally ditch run flats, which flat out suck. (Particularly with 315 rears. Tramlining? Er, yeah a bit.:blink:) But I don't have any kind of spare, because BMW. If I just keep a 12V compressor and a couple of cans of repair goo in the car, am I still being a responsible road user?

Repair goo only works if you have a slow-ish leak.  When was the last time you had a slow leak?  Every tyre that has gone on me in recent years has been a hole in the road shredding the tyre beyond goo.

An X5 has no spare?  WFT.

You're right to ditch run flats though - see above comment on shredded tyres.  They are an expensive useless nonsense.

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All my flats have been tire replacing ones and I can't see going without a spare. An internet search turned up:


I don't know if you use your 3rd row but that looks pretty good if you don't and I'd get a spare tire bag if you do. Not that much room used up.


I'm trying to decide what the hell to do about the Koni's. I can return them and only be out shipping. I'm probably just going to keep them and get them installed and the car shock towers drilled so I can adjust them. I wonder how much a new trunk liner would be if I wanted to go back to stock.

Edited by Dreadhead
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Before the rebuild I was running twin turbos that made real power, but with challenges.  I use twin Precision 6766 turbos with the dual ceramic ball bearing rotating system.  I had to use smaller housings than ideal for fitment as they sit under the car (didn't have the heart to gut all the creature comforts like AC, power steering, ABS braking, etc... to place them in the engine compartment).  Believe it or not my car is still very streetable thanks to the boost controller.  Additionally, I needed 3" piping to make them work well.  3" piping running under the car and to the air to air heat exchanger is something to see...big as hell and made for fitment issues as well and bending things here and compromising things there.  I had some fluid leaks as a result (e.g. pressure side of power steering hoses "massaged").  This also resulted in somewhat "leaky" turbo system due to some bending of the cold side plumbing (think pipes headed to the heat exchanger after the turbos have converted the exhaust to the pressurized air).  On top of that there is the oiling system for the turbos.  Changing engine oil was a serious PITA due to all the plumbing...2-3 hour ordeal.  

This will give some context of how much plumbing....before they were powdercoated black


Anyhoo, these are the snails which I still run in the new setup...


They make stupid power and the power delivery can be very deceptive, unlike my prior positive displacement supercharger which was like a light switch...on or off.  No middle.

46mm wastegates


and 50mm TiAL blowoff valves


Air to air heat exchanger



The new turbo system is a major leap forward for me.  Same elements as above, but much of the plumbing is now integrated into my K-frame, including the oiling.  







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Test fitting of the motor, with midplate and integrated K-member / turbo piping (including oiling) goes in and out of the vehicle to tweak things.  To say some assembly required would be an understatement...in the end it was obvious the headers that kick it all off were....well, off.  That resulted in the geometry getting all squirrelly the further back the plumbing went.  


Not exactly lined up...lol




Some shots of the turbo plumbing installed going in and out of the car.  It really is a clean setup, once the fitment issues were addressed, and soooo much cleaner than what I had previously.





Here is an example of the frame being notched and boxed out very nicely to avoid clipping one of the ears off a turbo


Huge front rollbar in the way so custom endlinks, a bit of rotating it and then removing some material required


integrated oiling box won't clear the rollbar


so change things up








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  • 3 weeks later...

With the motor and turbo system test fitted, time to start buttoning up the driveline.

Rossler 4L80E trans.  I can shift it manual or auto, but the key is it handles the power and has overdrive for the standing mile events.




The rear cradle was showing cracks from several years of abuse so gusseting in order




Trans serviceable with the harness installed in a way it can be dropped w/o having to drop the whole driveline53BBDFD6-A3E9-4189-8462-33CCCE75345C_zps





I've been running hard piping for a while so it needed an update for the rebuild given repositioning of some bits...


My Corsa exhaust from 2009 modified to fit the system and with some manual cutouts...less back pressure for the turbo system should I need it at the track

The Ford 9" rear end with Wavetrac differential is worth it's weight...  The black hoop over the DS is a rear safety loop.



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  • 2 weeks later...

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