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KGSSHV Carbon Build Thread


mwl168

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I’ve had yet another terrible experience with Cam-Expert, a relationship of years has come to a head after getting back a front panel for the second time that was very poor workmanship indeed, the brushing was coarse and rough, the rear side screw holes for the stax sockets were still slightly out of alignment again (I managed to fix this by making the holes slightly bigger on the sockets themselves).

Anyway... I did a bit of experimenting, I removed the anodising via a caustic soda bath and wet sanded for a brushed polished look. I did this for all panels, the result isn’t bad and I prefer the shiny appearance to the duller clear anodised panels, but it does leave the panels vulnerable to fingerprints and scratches easily. 

Here’s a pic of the results... 

31800356432_f918c918d8_h.jpg

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So...  Having completed by first KGSSHV build using boards from Spritzer, I'd like to move on to a KGSSHV Carbon build.

I've already had the carbon amp boards fabricated using the gerber files on Dr. Gilmore's site.  I'm puzzled as to which of the myriads of power supply boards I'll need to power the carbon amp boards, however.  My KGSSHV build was an on-board version -- I'd like to go with an off-board version for the carbon build.  

Would some of the more experienced members give me some tips on which power supply boards I can use and any gotcha's to watch out for with a carbon build? 

-Vinh

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The Carbon is purely an off-board build btw.

The 2 power supplies;
1) The Golden Reference High Voltage (GRHV) these boards include bias and low voltage circuits.
2) The Golden Reference Low Voltage (GRLV) supplies.
You need to chose between using the the supplied low voltage circuit included on the HV boards or use a GRLV. If you do use the low voltage circuit included on the HV boards you won't need the GRLV boards.
I personally like the GRLV supplies and think they are worth it, YMMV.

From here... the many gerber files are mainly sizing and split supply options, most of them will be a choice purely to suit your design requirements.

Watchouts...
Well I prefer stainless steel M3 socket screws for the cree and ixy devices, many builders here use peek screws, I haven’t had anything arc yet, just be diligent and ensure work is clean and solder joints are as smooth as possible. I completely flush the scrub boards with 99% isopropyl alcohol before powering up.

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16 hours ago, johnwmclean said:

I’ve had yet another terrible experience with Cam-Expert, a relationship of years has come to a head after getting back a front panel for the second time that was very poor workmanship indeed, the brushing was coarse and rough, the rear side screw holes for the stax sockets were still slightly out of alignment again (I managed to fix this by making the holes slightly bigger on the sockets themselves).

Anyway... I did a bit of experimenting, I removed the anodising via a caustic soda bath and wet sanded for a brushed polished look. I did this for all panels, the result isn’t bad and I prefer the shiny appearance to the duller clear anodised panels, but it does leave the panels vulnerable to fingerprints and scratches easily. 

Here’s a pic of the results... 

31800356432_f918c918d8_h.jpg

Sorry to see the trouble with your vendor, John.

Must say the result does look very good to my mechanically inclined eyes.  I have quite a bit of experience with raw aluminum on my car projects and your conclusions are spot on...high maintenance to say the least.  Anodizing or powdercoating (if you can find one that scratches the itch) is best in the long run IMO.

Regardless, your work continues to impress.  

Happy Holidays!

Sam

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20 hours ago, johnwmclean said:

The Carbon is purely an off-board build btw.

The 2 power supplies;
1) The Golden Reference High Voltage (GRHV) these boards include bias and low voltage circuits.
2) The Golden Reference Low Voltage (GRLV) supplies.
You need to chose between using the the supplied low voltage circuit included on the HV boards or use a GRLV. If you do use the low voltage circuit included on the HV boards you won't need the GRLV boards.
I personally like the GRLV supplies and think they are worth it, YMMV.

From here... the many gerber files are mainly sizing and split supply options, most of them will be a choice purely to suit your design requirements.

Watchouts...
Well I prefer stainless steel M3 socket screws for the cree and ixy devices, many builders here use peek screws, I haven’t had anything arc yet, just be diligent and ensure work is clean and solder joints are as smooth as possible. I completely flush the scrub boards with 99% isopropyl alcohol before powering up.

Thanks, John.  I'll go with the GRLV.  Much appreciate the tips.

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Thanks, John.  I'll go with the GRLV.  Much appreciate the tips.

John, I found the Goldenreference7plus and goldenreference7minus boards--they look like just the LV version you've mentioned. Which ones of the boards is the GRHV board?


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  • 1 month later...

Hello all,

it is my first time here and as I am very interested in building myself this Amp, this is my first post.  I am looking into buying the boards, chassis, volume controls and PsU to start the motion.  Can someone point me to where to get it ? Thank you

 

just pmed John above.  Hopefully to hear good news soon :D

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21 hours ago, Whitigir said:

Hello all,

it is my first time here and as I am very interested in building myself this Amp, this is my first post.  I am looking into buying the boards, chassis, volume controls and PsU to start the motion.  Can someone point me to where to get it ? Thank you

 

just pmed John above.  Hopefully to hear good news soon :D

Hi Vince,

You are in good hands.  John's DIY work is very inspiring.

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Vince,

John is a meticulous graphic artist and builder.

Below is a Carbon designed and built by John, sitting on top of a KGSSHV off board designed and by John and assembled by me.

The knobs are stainless steel on the Carbon and titanium on the KGSSHV...

 

SAM_0563.JPG

Edited by wink
Extra info.
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On 2/7/2017 at 11:14 AM, Whitigir said:

Hello all,

it is my first time here and as I am very interested in building myself this Amp, this is my first post.  I am looking into buying the boards, chassis, volume controls and PsU to start the motion.  Can someone point me to where to get it ? Thank you

 

just pmed John above.  Hopefully to hear good news soon :D

I think he said HE was going to build it, not John...

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is a small project paying tribute to stax mafia. So I called it stacked mafia. :D I am going to build several amps in the same boxes.

This is the first one. The Carbon with two boxes, GRHV, GRLV, 23 stepped VR.

Planned by my friend and I and built by @ang728.

Here are some pics. One GG is also done and more amps are in progess.

DSC_6703.jpg

DSC_6708.jpg

DSC_6710.jpg

DSC_6713.jpg

DSC_6721.jpg

photo credit to ang728

Edited by joehpj
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On 2017/2/24 at 3:46 PM, johnwmclean said:

Very nice building.

I can't see any thermal grease applied? Not sure about those insulators with metal screws?

 

I'm not applying too much thermal grease on ceramic thermal pads and angle brackets but sufficient to have good thermal contacts :)

My approach is applying thermal grease at about pea size then screw all the compoments together,let the pressure spread out the grease.

Edited by ang728
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On 2/22/2017 at 7:53 PM, Kerry said:

These boards have extra circuitry for the delay timer, which is not needed on the Carbon.  I'd have to see if I can dig up a bom.  Not sure if I published it earlier.

Hi, Kerry,

Thank you for the quick reply. 

You did mention in the previous post that "

Just don't add the opto relay (CPC1117N) and the 600 ohm resistor (not necessary).  It is a normally closed relay that prevents the HV from starting up.

EDIT:  Also, the 3K resistor above the relay is not required."

I have gone through every page of this thread, couple of times, and could not find the BOM (or its location) nor the schematic. It would be great if you could provide a pointer.

 

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On 8/9/2016 at 4:13 PM, kevin gilmore said:

you can use that schematic and figure out the extra three parts now I see its been added,

BOM is harder, write down the silk screen and look it up or wait for Kerry.

Haven't seen any build this but Him

Edited by congo5
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Here's a rough BOM.  You'll need to double check things.  Patterns are not necessarily correct, but part numbers probably are pretty close.  Use this as a guide...

ID RefDes Pattern Name Value Vendor Part Number Quantity
100 A5 Bridge HV BRIDGE BR   GBU-610 1
101 AC-IN2 Mate-N-Lok 2 Connector 2 Pin 325VAC   sames series as 3 pin 1
102 DC-OUT Mate-N-Lok 3 Connector 3 Pin     571-1-770170-0, 571-1721661, 571-770988-1 1
103 AuxPwr, PWR-IND Header 1x2 Connector 2 Pin       2
104 C1 CAP_2815   47uF   80-T491D476K020  1
105 C11 Cap 22.5PS 10.5x22.5 .22uF   B32913A5224M 1
106 C13 Cap 22.5PS 10.5x22.5 .33uF   505-MKS4.33/1000/10 1
10 C14, C16 Cap 15PS 9x18   0.1uF   505-MKS4.1/1000/10 2
108 C23 CAPPR-10/35h20   330uF   594-MAL215959181E3  1
9 C25 Cap 15PS 9x18   47nF   I used 100pF instead 1
110 C26 Cap Pol 10PS 25D   220uF   80-ELG157M450AR4AA 1
16 C27 CAP_1206   5pF   581-12067A5R6CAT2A 1
112 C36 Cap Pol 2.5PS 6.6D   470uF   647-UVR1A471MED  1
113 C40 Cap Pol 2.5PS 6.6D   47uF   667-EEA-GA1A470H 1
25 D12, D13, D23, D25 SMA       FM4007 4
27 D14 SMA   130V   1SMA130Z 1
29 D15, D16, D17 SMA   150V   1SMA150Z 2
25 D20 SMA   1N4004   FM4007 1
26 D22 SMA   24V     1
24 D24 SMA   15V     1
121 Q10 TO-220   FQPF8N80C   FQPF8N80C 1
41 Q13 SOT23-5       HN4A51J 1
36 Q15, Q16 TO-220   KSC5026   KSC5026 2
44 Q21 SOT23   MMBT3904   MMBT3904 1
44 Q31 SOT23       MMBT3904 1
45 Q32 SOT23   MMBT3906   MMBT3906 1
39 Q36 SOT223-4   STN9360   STN9360 1
43 Q37 SOT89   DN2540   DN2540 1
54 R1, R41, R29, R30 RES_1206   3K     4
130 R2 RES_1206   600   667-ERJ-8ENF6040V 1
131 R3, R38, R78 RES_1206   1K   71-TNPW12061K00BEEN 3
55 R25 Res500LP   50K     1
56 R26 Res500LP   1M     1
57 R27 Res500LP   4.7M     1
136 R29, R30 RES_1206   100K   71-TNPW1206100KBEEN  2
60 R31 Res500LP   10M     1
138 R36 Res500LP   4   71-CPF33R3000FKRE6  1
139 R37, R42 RES_1206   390K   71-TNPV1206390KBEEN 2
49 R39 RES_1206   2K     1
48 R40 RES_1206   100     1
143 R43, R46 RES_2512 330K & 390K 300K     2
144 R44 RES_1206   20K   71-TNPW120620K0BEEN  1
53 R45 RES_1206   50K     1
65 R65 RES_0805   100K     1
67 R70 RES_0805   20K   RG2012P-203-D-T5 1
68 R72 RES_0805   10K   RG2012P-103-D-T5 1
69 R73, R75 RES_0805   2K   RG2012P-202-D-T5 2
70 R74 RES_0805   3.3K   RG2012P-332-D-T5 1
61 R79 RES_1206   4.7K     1
152 U1 SOIC-8/150mil     D LT1021DCS8-10 1
153 U2 CPC1117N       CPC1117N 1
154 U3 TO-220   10M90S   IXCP10M90S 1
155 U8, U14 TO-220       IXCP10M90S 2
156 U11 SOIC-14/150mil   CD4093   595-CD4093BM  1
157 VR1 POT T93B   50K   652-3266W-1-503LF  1

 

Here's the schematic:

SingleRailGRLV400V.pdf

SingleRailGRLV400V-2.pdf

 

EDIT:

I made some tweaks to the PS.  I'll need to see what I did.  I think I added some extra capacitance.

Edited by Kerry
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