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What Are You Building Today


luvdunhill

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9 hours ago, dsavitsk said:

I know people who refuse to use it, particularly in jointers and planers, because of the required blade sharpenings. But it is very durable for outdoor stuff.

It might be prudent to add some spar varnish over the tried and true.

The ironic part is that the first board I pulled to see how it came out ofĀ my planer was the one and only board so far that had a buried piece of a screw in it. The metal nub chewed a couple of divets in the planer bladesĀ before I noticed. Using Steve's planer outside the following weekend caused multiple noise complaints and three neighbors andĀ a police officer to come to my house. After I got my planer/jointer blades sharpened, all hasĀ been well and the planer and jointer have worked well.Ā 

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I know you're joking, but the cop said from the very beginning that we were not in violation of the noise ordinance. He came because they were so many calls so quickly and he wanted to know what was going on. Two of the "neighbors" were people I've never seen before and one of them drove down from the street aboveĀ trying to figure out where the racket originated. We had planed enough boards to get to work and it was clearly incredibly loud, so I told them to put down their pitchforks and torches and agreed to stop the noise.Ā 

15 hours ago, dsavitsk said:

It might be prudent to add some spar varnish over the tried and true.

I meant to respond to this earlier. We originally planned to leave the Ipe unfinished and let it silver, but when I tried teak oil and T&T that I had on hand on some scraps it was obviously worth applying something.Ā I considered spar varnish but wanted to keep it simple. And in fact, I alsoĀ had in mind your earlier comments about encasing natural wood in plastic coatings. I'm hoping I can just reapply the oil every year without a hard finish but I'd still consider adding spar varnish after vacation if that would last longer.Ā 

Edited by Voltron
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I'm with you there. Urethane varnishes (a) lose the appearance of the wood - you see the varnish, and not the wood (b) it seals the wood and stops it from moving. But it does move and the eurethane cracks (and/or yellows) (c) the only way to recover this is to strip and sand back - then apply an exterior grade Danish or Teak oil. Apply an extra coat every 6 months to a year.

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Tried & True says that their finishes are OK outdoors so long as they are not actually outdoors - that is, so long as they don't get rained on and stay wet. It may also turn out that the beeswax in the original finish would block the spar varnish from being applied. But ipe is really weather resistant - the worst case is that if the finish does not weather well, you have to sand it down in a few years and redo it.

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  • 2 months later...

ā€¦limited.

Itā€™s a Stax SRM-600 Limited. Now Iā€™ve got it modified with constant current sources instead of the power resistors. The CCSs are 01N100D/LT1021 by Kerry ā€“ see this post.

The board looks like this and is connected to the main board via 16 pin headers to the holes for power resistors. Current sources set to 6.0 mA.

1478215512_01N100DCCSSRM-600Limitedboard-Proteus8Professional-3DVisualizer.thumb.jpg.dbce83e052d04822c0bd171485aff3ca.jpg

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Iā€™m presentlyĀ  enjoying the Schwanensee from Wiener Staatsoper through ā€œSRM-600 Limited Modifiedā€ and I like the sound. Drove 400 km from our summer cottage to apartment and back today to assemble the CCS board.

Here is picture of the Limited surrounded byĀ a couple ofĀ nice electrostatics.

IMG_0179.thumb.JPG.9d9a960f989c3d7ac4ff34ab843951c9.JPG

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My name on the schematic and layout files are KG Tube input + GG output.*. Based on Kevinā€™s KGSSHV-TUBE-SANDWICH board. Different CCS, offset/balanceĀ servos and most parts are surface mounted. I did pollute the stax t8000 clone (well sorta) thread with posts during built last summer - an extremely rainy summer.

Edited by JoaMat
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  • 1 month later...

Thanks guys

I know that many of you work wood well. I would like to mill the holes where the TRS, led and the power on/off.

The problem is that the holes are very small and the milling cutter I have is of a size, let's say "standard". What could I use to do this?Ā  I had thought about Dremel milling cutter but they are hard to get around here.

Lastly, what color would you like? I had thought to use some dye and leave it sapelli color (like the table) or use a clear varnish and leave it natural.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/24/2017 at 7:15 PM, luvdunhill said:

Ā 


Team 5-Pin is an elite organization. You do not just ā€œforeseeā€ joining Team 5-Pin. It joins you.

What is the accepted std. pinout for team 5 pin? Use the current 4-pin pinout and add the gnd on pin ? Or?

1 - L+

2 - L-

3 - R+

4 - R-

5 - GND

EDIT: Shure does it this way for the VP88

Pin 1: Shield/ground
Pin 2: left channel +
Pin 3: left channel -
Pin 4: right channel +
Pin 5: right channel -

Edited by Pars
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