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So I thought I would try out reflow oven soldering with a toaster oven.

 

66BFD62B-AEFF-45FB-A54A-B6D5D13A0017.thumb.jpeg.4d2f564b82b266488820b0560bd108bc.jpeg

The AMB regulators for the Dynalo Mini are $40 whereas the toaster oven was practically free. I figured trying to solder with the toaster would be worth a try. It would also help with all the other SMD projects I have. I don't have a controller for now so I did it manually. As a test I bought an SMT adjustable power supply kit from Nightfire electronics.

CD690C13-29D7-4682-9D35-1B168B18275D.thumb.jpeg.348852ac9861d69d44d8f97aecde06cc.jpeg

I had a little too much solder for the LM317 and one resistor didn't self-center but I'm pretty satisfied with the result.

I'm thinking about using this for the R2R attenuator board. Anyone know what the procedure is for doing reflow on 2 sided boards?

 

Edited by cspirou
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9.12.2017 at 6:35 PM, cspirou said:

So I thought I would try out reflow oven soldering with a toaster oven.

 

66BFD62B-AEFF-45FB-A54A-B6D5D13A0017.thumb.jpeg.4d2f564b82b266488820b0560bd108bc.jpegThe AMB regulators for the Dynalo Mini are $40 whereas the toaster oven was practically free. I figured trying to solder with the toaster would be worth a try. It would also help with all the other SMD projects I have. I don't have a controller for now so I did it manually. As a test I bought an SMT adjustable power supply kit from Nightfire electronics.

CD690C13-29D7-4682-9D35-1B168B18275D.thumb.jpeg.348852ac9861d69d44d8f97aecde06cc.jpeg

I had a little too much solder for the LM317 and one resistor didn't self-center but I'm pretty satisfied with the result.

I'm thinking about using this for the R2R attenuator board. Anyone know what the procedure is for doing reflow on 2 sided boards?

 

Nice work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mostly a packaging job.

Had around an old Paul Hynes PR-3HD 18.5VDC voltage regulator and 2x 18VAC Rcore transformer I bought years ago to use in powering an old Mac mini. It’s capacitor input. Wanted remake as a 12VDC supply and was able to adjust it to design. Bought a bare case off eBay. Added a inductor and capacitor bank to use as choke input expecting ~35% rectified DC voltage drop. Powers up no-load OK. Need to now get some power resistors to stress test at 5A to see if drop out is exceeded and starves the regulator. Might have to go to a 2x 22VAC. 

696EF7E6-CF86-47FE-A61F-2D63F056BC68.jpeg

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What are peoples' thoughts on PCB mount transformers? Pros/cons/pitfalls? I thought it'd be nice to not have to bolt/mount a bunch of toroids (or any, if at all possible) to a case. Yes, the silkscreen flying off the edge means the transformer is slightly wider than the PCB, but I had specific size requirements for this board. 

9f60659852.png

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One thought of mine was a steady stream of swear words upon realising that the footprints of PCB mount transformers aren't always 100% identical between manufacturers :rolleyes:

I waited a couple of weeks for boards only to realise that the secondary side footprints were off by 0.2" because I chose a different manufacturer, but the physical size of the transformer was identical. This obviously doesn't apply to e.g. the Talema PCB mount toroids, but it's worth remembering to always check the manufacturers datasheets :)

Other than that I think it is a great idea for transformers under 30VA or so, because PCB mounting is more flexible than bolt mounting IME :)

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15 hours ago, UFN said:
One thought of mine was a steady stream of swear words upon realising that the footprints of PCB mount transformers aren't always 100% identical between manufacturers 

I waited a couple of weeks for boards only to realise that the secondary side footprints were off by 0.2" because I chose a different manufacturer, but the physical size of the transformer was identical. This obviously doesn't apply to e.g. the Talema PCB mount toroids, but it's worth remembering to always check the manufacturers datasheets 

Other than that I think it is a great idea for transformers under 30VA or so, because PCB mounting is more flexible than bolt mounting IME 

 

I have a nearly universal footprint. It pretty much confirms that every vendor is slightly different. The board looks like crap - plenty of nearly overlapping drill hits.

unreg.jpg

Edited by luvdunhill
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Thanks for the offer, but the board I'm using needs to have very exact dimensions so it doesn't look like I'd be able to use your board anyway. Mine is also regulated with a tl1963 on the backside. Might look into switchers as well. 


Maybe try Jan Didden’s SilentSwitcher? The DIYA store sells them now.
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Interesting, thanks. I should keep up with diya more often.

I can't tell if the intention for all those holes is via stitching or via shielding... doesn't really look like either at first glance. In any case, pretty sure LT isn't going to like that their trademark of Silent Switcher is being infringed upon. Time to do some research and cook up something for myself.

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ItJnjn3.jpg

I paused my SS Dynalo project for almot 2 years because I'm too lazy to drill holes on the base plate, and moved cross country for a new job.

Now I'm back, still dont want to drill holes, so I 3d printed adapter plates for everything. 

 

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Finished up a 6 channel Anaview AMS0100 to use with my horns, as the old amps were to noisy.

A pretty plug and play build by DIY-standards, but since it was my first try that suited me just fine.

Only had the time to plug it in and check the channel routing using test noises, so i haven't tried playing music on it yet, but hopefully everything will be ok when i try it out later today.

 

I still have a Holton NXV500 to build, which is a bit more difficult, so having this as a warmup to get rid of my cabinet-drilling fright was perfect ;)

DSCN6144.thumb.jpg.eae12c17b13dba252c37de0802cf0134.jpg

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