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So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually a

Just put up some shelves and cabinets in the shop space preparing for making things again!

The Cherry is lighter than the speakers, but will darken quickly next to the window. I have a vented front plate coming for the top space. The cooling fan sits in that space, and is really quiet.

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It's a Shars 4" milling vise, which I'm pretty sure is a knockoff of a Kurt. I don't have the $500 or whatever it is for a real Kurt, I think the Shars was about $100. 


Any idea if a traditional drill press can deal with ... perpendicular force ... I am not sure the proper term, against the drill arbor? I would think the answer is no?
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You mean cutting horizontally, like milling? I would also guess no, as what typically holds end mills in a mill are tool holders with collets which have very specific runout tolerances. I'm not sure about putting end mills in a drill press, either (drill bits only cut axially, of course). 

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That's a bit of a loaded blanket statement... it depends on speeds and feeds for the material you are cutting and the end mills you are using, and how fast your drill press goes. But definitely not something I would try in general. 

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I've used an end mill in a drill press to level out a heatsink surface.  I don't have a shaper......

Extreme care, innovation and fast reflexes are definitely indicated.......:lol:

Edited by wink
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9 hours ago, luvdunhill said:

 


Any idea if a traditional drill press can deal with ... perpendicular force ... I am not sure the proper term, against the drill arbor? I would think the answer is no?

 

I used a vertical drill press a few years ago to mill the backside of a 10mm aluminium front panel in order to fit a 1/4 jack. I did very shallow passes of mess than 1milimiter each time (about 1/32 inch).

The chuck didn't suffer any abnormal wear.

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A DAC, including an RPI as player. Input is ethernet. DAC chip is my favorite, AD1865. From the RPI it fed through an I2S buffer and reclock, than an I2S to PCM converter. That is not my design. The DAC board is my design, at the end, there is no low pass filter, the interstage transformer acts like that. Than, the triode amp and buffer circuit is designed by a friend, I built it on cnc milled plate and point to point wiring. Several modifications made, first I did not like it. It was too dry and sterile. That time the end stage was based on ECC83s. It is redesigned and made with 5687s. Now, it is pretty good. Once I "finish", I will design and get cut and bent a copper case. But now, I'm in a stage that I need a decent headphone amp, tho be able to listen to music when the kids are sleeping in the other room.

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Milo (Al's alter ego) and I did some work on our router table/mortising machine today. It's starting to come together...

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Milo did a huge chunk of the milling and drilling on this, and all the holes and pivot points lined up perfectly! Of course, he stacked the deck a little bit...

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So upright, it's a regular router table, albeit a large one. tipped down, it's a mortising machine, or horizontal router table, useful for things like raised panels and such. We're really having fun building this and setting up shop in general. 

Still left to do... cutting the hole in the table top for the router lift, and painting/sealing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Built this last weekend.  Peopoly Moai SLA 3D printer kit.  Build took about 4.5 hours, pretty straight forward and well thought out design. 

For those not familiar, SLA style 3d printers are quite different from regular FDM 3d printers.  Where FDM melts and extrudes plastic layer by layer to build a model, SLA uses a light source to cure a UV sensitive plastic resin layer by layer.  The resin sits in a small reservoir, a metal built plate presses down to the bottom, and the light source cures a given layer.  The reservoir then peels itself off the cured resin, the metal plate dips back into the liquid resin one step higher, and the next layer is cured from the light below.  Repeat over and over until your model is fulled 'pulled out' of the rub. 

The two typical methods of SLA printing are dubbed 'SLA' which uses a laser and galvanometers to trace each layers' design, and 'DLP' which uses a DLP or LED screen to project the stencil of an entire layer.  Advantage of SLA type is that it's a bit more precise/detailed, advantage of 'DLP' type is that it's cheaper and can cure an entire layer at once so it can be faster for larger models.  SLA resolution is limited to the size of the laser beam, DLP resolution is limited to the pixel size but is jagged in comparison.  As LED screens improve in resolution and get cheaper, I expect DLP to become more popular in the future.

SLA can be kinda messy, smelly, and is slower and considerably more costly than FDM 3d printing.  The resins right now also aren't that great mechanically - they're pretty brittle.  The advantage they have is that they're WAY more precise than FDM printers.  For this reason, they're used a lot by the dental, jewelry, and miniatures industries.  I already have an FDM printer that serves me well for rough prototyping, but this printer should be much more useful for creating production level short run molds.  I've wanted this ability for a while now but these machines are typically $4-10k+ all in, so this kit for a fraction of the price (~$1300) is a great deal.  Those interested in something similar but even cheaper (~$500) might want to check out the Wanhao D7 or Anycubic Photon, both DLP type machines, but you have to be willing to tweak things a bit more. 

 

Anyways, enough rambling.  Onto some build pics!

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Kit came in a big ol' box.  Very well packaged.

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Some of the electronics and the two galvanometers.  The laser shoots into those two little mirrors, which direct the laser up to the build area and control the X and Y positions for tracing out each layer.

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All put together.  Liquid resin stays in that clear vat, aluminum build plate dips into it from above to control Z position and holds the model.  Gotta keep the door closed so UV light doesn't start curing the resin.

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In action!  It looks really cool in person.  One thing I love is how quiet it is during operation - no problems letting this run overnight.  The laser is coming in from below.

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Post processing the final part.  This is just a little test ring to make sure things are working to spec and the build went as planned.  Agitate it in IPA for a while to get rid of any excess resin, agitate in water to rinse off.  Repeat a few times and then put in the sun or under a UV light for a while to fully harden.  I might get an ultrasonic cleaner later for this step since I'm inpatient. :P

Haven't printed anything terribly exciting yet, mainly just small calibration models to get dimensional accuracy locked in.  I'll post something more interesting later. :)

Edited by n3rdling
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Inverse RIAA filter (have some extra PCBs, if anyone is interested)
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I might be interested in one of these if you have any left Marc. Or borrowing yours...
Where did you get the cute little case for this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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