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So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually a

Just put up some shelves and cabinets in the shop space preparing for making things again!

The Cherry is lighter than the speakers, but will darken quickly next to the window. I have a vented front plate coming for the top space. The cooling fan sits in that space, and is really quiet.

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Oh, I tried that, the shitty fence and clamps on my mitre saw ended up working far worse than the track saw.  It was really imperfect Domino application that fucked everything up.

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^ You need a router table with fence, because there's nowhere for the bearing to ride if you're cutting a full miter.

Unless you tack a strip on top for the bearing to ride against. 

Still, not the cleanest way to miter plywood. 

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I actually cut the best 45 degree angles for the thin pieces with a hand saw.  The track saw would do great on plywood angles if the Festool setup had some way to lock down the angle besides holding it down when the saw tries to fall over.  

Edited by VPI
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29 minutes ago, swt61 said:

^ You need a router table with fence, because there's nowhere for the bearing to ride if you're cutting a full miter.

You can clamp a board to it to act as a straight edge for the bearing. Or the festool router can run in the track saw track.

30 minutes ago, VPI said:

 if the Festool setup had some way to lock down the angle besides holding it down when the saw tries to fall over.  

I'm not sure I'm understanding your complaint. The track saw should be able to lock in the angle.

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It locks in the angle no problem, but Festool provides no way to lock down the saw to the track so it wants to fall over the whole time.  You then have to hold the left side of the saw down as you lean across the table trying to make a long cut so if you let up pressure the angle changes.  Add to that the two arms you need to manage the vacuum hose and power cord and you need 5 arms to properly do a long 45 degree plywood cut.

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 It would make more sense to me for Festool to have some system to lock the saw into the track when cutting at an angle like the competitors do. 

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 It would make more sense to me for Festool to have some system to lock the saw into the track when cutting at an angle like the competitors do. 

Does the manual talk about a pair of gib cams that can be adjusted? It’s not a lock per se but might provide enough friction to help.
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That attaches it to the track without any play, but when angled the whole thing wants to fall over/twist the track unless you add a contraption like Doug showed. 

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In my shop in my converted garage the power tools I have are:

  • A Wadkin BRA350 radial arm saw. Although this three phase beast can do any compound angle, I have it accurately set up to do 90 degree cuts. To the extent if you use a square on a cut edge, you can't see light through.
  • An industrial grade bandsaw which I've fitted with a Kreg fence with microadjuster.
  • An Axminster planer/thicknesser. That is a 3-blade 30cm cut. Lousy for interlocking grain woods because of tear-out.
  • A router table with a Dewalt 2000W router with depth adjuster.
  • A biscuit jointer.

I've also got a pretty comprehensive set of hand tools.

But no table saw - and oddly enough have never found a piece that has needed one. The things I make are quite small. I've already got more machine tools than my all-time hero Krenov used to build his iconic furniture, for which he mainly used finely tuned hand tools, many of which he made himself.

Even when Krenov was so elderly that he lost his eyesight, he was still making wooden planes (to sell) by feel. Amazing guy.

He was also a realist - many of his carcase joints used dowels. But he said that if biscuits has been available when he was working he would have used them instead in a heartbeat.

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Got the stick squasher mounted on its table. Now off to YouTube to figure out how the hell it works. 

The instructions say not to connect it to a shop vac, do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this?

14D49753-B5BD-42DB-87B0-27538CF4C8DE.jpeg

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2 hours ago, VPI said:

do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this?

Yes. If you use it outside, you might get away without one. They used to sell it with just a bag, but the internal fan wasn't enough and they clogged so it didn't really work.

Also, what good is a planer without a jointer?

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4 hours ago, VPI said:

Got the stick squasher mounted on its table. Now off to YouTube to figure out how the hell it works. 

The instructions say not to connect it to a shop vac, do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this?

14D49753-B5BD-42DB-87B0-27538CF4C8DE.jpeg

You might as well order this along with a large cyclone extractor.

 https://byrdtoolexperts.com/shelix-head-for-dewalt-dw735-planer-lander?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=dynamic-search&utm_content=lp-from-standard-groups&gclid=CjwKCAiAz4b_BRBbEiwA5XlVVpc4u6gdRQ-M-Eaqqoj6w9iIqE7V5AwATyFqVlOebRB72OWGf5p3WhoC95gQAvD_BwE

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1 hour ago, dsavitsk said:

Yes. If you use it outside, you might get away without one. They used to sell it with just a bag, but the internal fan wasn't enough and they clogged so it didn't really work.

Also, what good is a planer without a jointer?

 A portable/jobsite planar that needs more dust collection than a shopvac?

Yeah, that's perfectly sensible. 

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