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I think there is deliberate slop in the mounting system to make up for measurement failures if they are small.  
Need to route out some T Track slots on the base before I start mounting anything anyway.
 

Garage is so cold work is happening in only short windows. 

I use the Grrrrriprrr on everything. Seems pretty great.  I have been looking for the blocks to use at the router table but have not found them yet. 

Edited by VPI
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So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually a

Just put up some shelves and cabinets in the shop space preparing for making things again!

The Cherry is lighter than the speakers, but will darken quickly next to the window. I have a vented front plate coming for the top space. The cooling fan sits in that space, and is really quiet.

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Just ordered a handful of their different blocks.  
 

As for the rails, I used the Kreg ones which do have adjustable screws to keep them slop free. Did the superglue attachment method and then screwed them in place. 

Edited by naamanf
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I didn't build shit today, I took it apart. Forgot the before shots but there were lots more cabinets in there. Along with some potentially anti Semitic graffiti.

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Edited by Voltron
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52 minutes ago, Voltron said:

I hope I'm not being offensive, and I'm not sure I can tell what is in the picture, but you don't need a fence at all when using a router bit with the top bearing. You just set the height to take off the correct round-over without a shelf and then press the work against the bearing while you pass the bit. That's their beauty and why they're easy to set up and use. Again, sorry if I'm telling you something you already know.

I didn't build shit today, I took it apart. Forgot the before shots but there were lots more cabinets in there. Along with some potentially anti Semitic graffiti.

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My assumption was the fence was there to aid in dust extraction. Love me some dust extraction. 
 

 

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Yeah, the Jessem lift is so Purty I do not want it caked up with dust.

I use a straight edge to line the bearing with the fence, so it is technically being used, just no reason that I can come up with to not use the fence.

Edited by VPI
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56 minutes ago, VPI said:

Yeah, the Jessem lift is so Purty I do not want it caked up with dust.

I use a straight edge to line the bearing with the fence, so it is technically being used, just no reason that I can come up with to not use the fence.

My 2¢, the fence is likely to cause accuracy and repeatability issues but I, like Naaman, welcome its use as a dust collection element so I usually leave it backed off just a touch to make sure that I'm getting solid contact with the bearing on the bit.  I've definitely had to run pieces through multiple times when dust built up along the fence or a little chip of wood got in the way.

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1 hour ago, VPI said:

Yeah, the Jessem lift is so Purty I do not want it caked up with dust.

I use a straight edge to line the bearing with the fence, so it is technically being used, just no reason that I can come up with to not use the fence.

If I have my little router table set up outside, I don't bother with a fence. If I'm inside, I like the dust collection the fence provides. But as Nate stated, I  back it off about 1/16th".

Edited by swt61
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Glad we are still on the router topic.

I need to use the 3/4” bit to routerize grooves for T Tracks. Better to set it on the table and run it along the fence or set up the Festool router to run along the track saw track for cutting these grooves?

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12 minutes ago, VPI said:

Glad we are still on the router topic.

I need to use the 3/4” bit to routerize grooves for T Tracks. Better to set it on the table and run it along the fence or set up the Festool router to run along the track saw track for cutting these grooves?

Can also use your table saw to do the dado cuts. Will take multiple passes since you don’t have a dado blade but if your fence is setup properly it’s still quick and easy. 

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1 hour ago, VPI said:

Glad we are still on the router topic.

I need to use the 3/4” bit to routerize grooves for T Tracks. Better to set it on the table and run it along the fence or set up the Festool router to run along the track saw track for cutting these grooves?

I'd want to be in a position where I was holding the router, not the workpiece.  You need down pressure to ensure you're getting the right depth of cut and that puts your hands in a bad position if something goes wrong with the router table.  Basically I try to never be pushing my hands toward the cutting thingy and maybe one of the work holding doohickys that Doug linked to fixes that but that's my 2¢.

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I'm the opposite - with power tools*, I prefer to take the work to the tool whenever possible. But Nate is correct that downward pressure (and a very flat work piece) are necessary, as are the necessary safety precautions. I don't think either is correct, just what you are comfortable with, and what your tools will allow.

* really, you should probably use a plow plane for this ...

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Sure. For only $500+ I can have a device July 6th and I can manually do what 6 different machines in my garage can do for me today. 😃

My biggest issue is remembering how to work the Festool routers and finding the proper collets and track mounting peripherals. 

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Made the mistake of trying to work my way up to 3/8” on the first one to make sure I did not big it down and my failures in fractions left the rail just below the surface. Just did the full 3/8 on the second one and it is perfect. 

Not sure if I need a 1/16”ish shim under the first one or not. 
 

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And my Katz Moses stop blocks and apronlet showed up just in time to get this all built up. 
 

 

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Well, the Festool track worked well for the plywood cuts, but the fence is a bit tall so I it comes down to making several cuts on the table saw or the router table for this top mounted track.

Seems to me like going up a 1/4” at a time should be manageable on the router table.  

Oh, also added my sidearm and marking dagger to the apronlet this morning. Shit is getting serious up in here. 

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Survived the Murder Machine again. Seems I should have gone with a much more open ring kit as the chips got all packed into the groove. 

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Question for the fancy wood guys.  If Lie- Nielsen lists something in stock, is it actually in stock or will I get an out of stock notice shortly after ordering?  I have the Block Plane and the No62 in the cart as they both appear to be in stock, but I am still waiting for the Bridge City one that appeared to be in stock when I bought it.

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Probably in stock, and I think they are working to keep the core tools in stock. They have a phone and are good about answering it.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/pages/tool-availability-covid-19

Those are both great planes. I use mine all the time. I'd recommend the hotdog to go with the 62.

Also the honing guide

Edited by dsavitsk
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Thanks ordered them all. 
 

The tiny shop took its first victim today. Moving stuff around the mitre saw got too close to the garage door and when said door was opened the mitre locking bolt with the plastic handle got a bit bent when the door tried to lift the whole fucking saw off the floor. Seems to still work but fairly goofy operation now. 
 

I hate this shithole house. 

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Starting a new project today.

Rolling, three drawer BB Plywood/MDF cabinet to stand at the end of the MFT table and have the Sjoberg Smart Workstation Pro to be mounted on top and a custom drawer to hold the hand planes below and then just supplies in the other two drawers. 

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