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cspirou

(closed) Dynalo Mini enclosure group buy

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9 minutes ago, GrindingThud said:

The name column is locked for me...but I was able to add numbers in row 24

My fault, I forgot to include the first column for editing. It should work now. I added your name too.

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2 hours ago, cspirou said:

My fault, I forgot to include the first column for editing. It should work now. I added your name too.

Awesome, thanks!

 

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Drawings updated to reflect the black anodized surface with laser etched text. Text layout is much closer to John McLean's FPE files. Also needed to adjust the vents on the top because there was some overlap with the side panels

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Cool. Just as a note, you might consider going a bit wider to allow a 0.25” or so gap along each side of the board. (I didn’t check or note the dimensions on your drawing)

This would help with airflow/cooling (I think). There is an AC trace down one side of the board so you certainly do not want to use the case slots for the PCB.

 

 

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John's design was 5.25" wide and mine has already been expanded to 5.5". The PCB is 4.8" wide which leaves 0.21" of space on each side. I'll keep it at 5.5" for now because it makes a few of the hole cutouts easier to define and I think you would benefit more from increasing the number of holes on the bottom plate. Ideally I would have wanted the sides to get drilled but that's not the case with this kind of enclosure.

I'll see if they have some sort of stock perforated metal. It might bring down the machining cost as well.

Edited by cspirou

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4 minutes ago, purk said:

Very nice and thanks.  The old Dynalo was released back in 2003 or something if I'm not mistaken.  

I originally had "Dynalo SuSy" but I changed it for aesthetic reasons. I could put 'supersymmetry' like John did for his case

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Do you know what the panel thicknesses are?
Also, I liked the “super symmetry” on John’s design.
Also, were you planning on countersinking the corner holes in the Fr/Rear panels, or doing an inset larger blind hole (for inserting socket-type screws)?


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Panel thickness is 0.09" or close to 2.25mm. Corner screws are counter-sunk by default but not indicated in my drawing. I thought about doing a blind hole for the potentiometer, but it seems unnecessary with 2mm panels.

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Thanks, was just wondering. They do show a Heavy option on their end plates, but don’t specify what it is.


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I should temper that by saying this isn’t 10mm territory for this case with the panel mounted controls. 4mm might be too thick. Kerry would probably know better. I know John was good with the 2.5mm he used on the FPE case, and it sounds like their std. is close to that.


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I asked Kerry once on the Dynalo thread what thickness was required for the panels and he said 0.1" (2.54mm). I believe the XLRs go up to 2.7mm panel thickness. I'd prefer 0.1" but I have no problem with 0.09".

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I think I used .125" for the face plate and .1" for the back.

I just got some side profiles from FPE that I'm going to try out.

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I suppose chassis ground would be to code, though from what I have seen no one who had built/cased one did that. Were you going to put holes in the bottom panel for feet? You could use the one closest to the IEC to run a ground wire. Make sure there isn't any interference from anything on the amp board.

The RCAs (and the Neutriks) can be tapped. I just tapped an RCA for M3, and would think 4-40 would work as well.

I prefer your v1 lettering above as well.

EDIT: for grounding, the IEC has 2 mounting holes in the rear panel, which appear they require a screw/nut. As long as the screw contacts bare metal, those would work for the case grounding as well.

Edited by Pars

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The screws for the bottom panel also do double duty for attaching rubber supports. Holes were not included in my drawings because I dont know where they are located yet. Using the IEC screws sounds like the best way though as you mentioned.

So no additional modifications to the rear panels for now.

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I used #4-40 for everything.  I used tap to thread everything first.

I was planning on adding hole for chassis ground though as Pars mentioned the IEC connectors will ground to the chassis.

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On 1/25/2018 at 2:20 PM, cspirou said:

Neutriks use self tapping screws. I know because i bought standard M3 screws thinking they would be fine and it didn't work. If you bought the plastic A-type XLR jacks you'll need Plastite screws.

The last build I did used the Neutrik plastic A series XLR connectors and I think I used M3 screws.  Whatever the thread was, I ended up tapping the XLR connectors myself.

Added myself to the sheet for one of each.  Thanks!

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