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Woodworkers of Head Case unite!


swt61
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Spent too much of my day installing the bizarrely engineered 1250 cfm Dust Right wall mount dust extraction only to have the cheap ass bag that hangs below the filter tear in half while trying to stretch it over the canister. 

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Found out that the inside measuring portion of calipers are ultra sharp.  They will make a nice pair of 1/2” deep holes in one’s knee if you are measuring on the ground and accidentally bump into them. 

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He's bullshitting all of us. Those are bites from a vampire. He's going to turn within 24 hours. We should use his own ping pong table to carve the stakes we'll drive through his vampire heart!

 

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I'm receiving a lot of conflicting recommendations on what to do with my walls when I search the intrawebs, and figured I'd ask here.

 

So, I whitewashed the pine paneling in my new office.  I used a 1:1 of water and flat latex paint, applied with a brush and wiped down after 10-12 minutes.  I'm really happy with the finish. 

 

Now, some folks say you have to seal whitewashed paneling because the watered down paint doesn't provide the same protection, while others only recommend it for whitewashed shelving and furniture that will see more wear and tear. 

 

Any experience/recommendations/thoughts/opinions?  I'm only going to spot-sand the floor and just seal in the worn patina.  The desk is going to be walnut butcherblock.  Trim is going to be painted white.  I'm OK with the extra effort if it's needed, but it's a lot of work to seal the walls/ceiling if it's not necessary.

 

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I'm no paint expert, but I don't see any point to sealing those walls or the ceiling. Unless you are going to practice wall walking I don't think it will get a lot of wear and tear, and whitewash is supposed to be a little rustic too. Touching up as necessary down the road also seems easier than sealing all the surfaces. It would take some coats to seal that thirsty pine.

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If it were a kitchen or bathroom, where one might need to whipe down the walls now and then, I'd agree with a clear sealer. In your case it would be an unnecessary expense and labor. The watered down paint will hold up just fine. I speak from experience. 

Great job BTW!

And I agree that it would be a sin to remove that beautiful patina from the floor.

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BTW, I developed a great technique for whitewashed pine paneling, when I had to do an entire house. I bought 20 gallons of water based polyurethane (big house), then had the paint store tint it White and thoroughly mix it. A couple of samples and we got the amount of White tint just right. Then I used a Graco airless sprayer to apply. No whiping down needed, and no streaks. Sealed the walls great too.

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5 hours ago, en480c4 said:

I'm only going to spot-sand the floor and just seal in the worn patina.

I would not put any modern finish over those floors. In your effort to preserve them, all you would be doing is putting off ruining them a few years.

Also, I'll disagree with Steve's technique. For rustic looking white washing, do it how it would have been done when a rustic white wash would have been applied.

https://milkpaint.com/

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I wanted to show off the sign that Steve engaged Naaman to design and carve on the ping pong table. It is a beautiful piece of cherry that will age along with us, although unlike is it will look better over time.

I haven't really organized the stuff on the peg board, it's just there temporarily because I'm trying to get everything out of the old shop space.

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14 hours ago, Voltron said:

I wanted to show off the sign that Steve engaged Naaman to design and carve on the ping pong table. It is a beautiful piece of cherry that will age along with us, although unlike is it will look better over time.

I haven't really organized the stuff on the peg board, it's just there temporarily because I'm trying to get everything out of the old shop space.

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Looks like it found a good home. 

Slowly getting going on the cabinets, have the drawer boxes built. Not having to figure out any dimensions for them was really nice. Design the cabinet and have the machine cut the parts to size. Whatever that size may be. 
 

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I cannot find where to order drawer boxes on your website Naaman, can you give me the link?  I would like two 21x14 for the entry cabinet and I am sick of having to build drawers without a magic ping pong table. 

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47 minutes ago, VPI said:

I cannot find where to order drawer boxes on your website Naaman, can you give me the link?  I would like two 21x14 for the entry cabinet and I am sick of having to build drawers without a magic ping pong table. 

Easy peasy, what type of slide are you using?

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I think you have better things to do than making drawers. I am looking at basic magic side tables for my shop so I can make some cool stuff.  Just cannot fit your ping pong table. 

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3 hours ago, VPI said:

I think you have better things to do than making drawers. I am looking at basic magic side tables for my shop so I can make some cool stuff.  Just cannot fit your ping pong table. 

Actually really easy to make if you need a flat pack of anything. 
 

Ping ponged the carcasses, and put together the first one. Started to make the HDF doors and found that the latest  version of my cabinet software causes problems with cutting the doors properly. Nothing like having a $1800 year piece of software that ruins sheets of wood. 
 

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Edited by naamanf
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