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blubliss

My poor R10s ):

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I want a tag.

dog-tag, name-tag, laundry tag be specific ;)

blubliss

bright side is you have some good phones to ease the pain while repairs to the R10's get done.

(nice to have a silver lining :))

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FWIW, I've dealt with Craig at KuboTen before, and I would definitely trust him over Mikhail. I got my O2 from KuboTen and I have no complaints.

Get those R10s singing!

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Spill the beans on name of the guy that fucked up your R10's, especially if he posts on Head-Case or Head-Fi. Don't want to ever deal with this guy in the future.

Likely the foam just deteriorated with age. The black sticky stuff is the adhesive used for the ear pads. Any temps above 90 degrees F, will soften them enough that the ear pads will come off easily. In fact for replacing ear pads, the procedure is to use a hair drier or warm pad to warm them up for removeal. Either way, they leave a nasty sticky residue.

But recabling someone's headphones without asking them? No excuse for that one.

-Ed

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Let me say again that this damage was probably there before I loaned them out. Sound wise they work but i can't tell really since the guy i loaned them to recabled them SE (without asking me) and i need balanced for my amps I'm looking for adapters so I can listen but the bass on them was horrible from the beginning. Now I know why.

I am hoping for a full recovery!

Sorry for your loss!

But, it sounds like you got conned.

1. You loaned a guy your balanced R10 for possible trade.

2. They came back single ended, in a condition that you didn't loan them out in or request that he change them to.

3. They arrived back on your doorstep unannounced 3 months later.

:(

I'd bet mad as fuck, but you are taking this like it's nothing. I'd be at the mans doorstep, bat in hand ready to commits that ass whopping! Just saying

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Bluebliss, I changed myself my bass-light R10's pads a few months ago. I got the spare set from Craig. After removing the old pads, I had a situation similar to yours, with all the old adhesive stick over the metal ring, with some parts of the leather inner sheet (which looked like cloth) still glued in some areas. Then I was able to see the shape of the orange rubber rings around the drivers. Mine were quite OK, the rubber was aged and not elastic, but still in place and doing its function.

I spent about one hour to clean the old adhesive on each driver. It took that long for the extreme care I put in not damaging the wood, the driver and the rubber. I used nail polish removing fluid (acetone) which acted better as solvent than alcohol, and used an old cloth piece to apply it and wrap away the adhesive and pieces of the pad. I needed to slightly rub in some areas with a wood wedge (like an ice cream spoon) to remove the thicker adhesive areas but being very gentle to the metal ring.

Once I had the metal ring completely clean, smooth and tidy, I placed the new pads in place, which is not easy, you need a steady hand to get the two small pins into the minute holes of the frame at the first trial. Otherwise you'd need to remove the already glued pad, and you very likely would have a situation very similar to the initial one :palm:

In your case it'd be a bit more complicated for having to clean the holes in the wood housing and getting a new rubber ring in place, but IMO the whole thing is quite feasible being patient and careful, so if you're going to ask Alex to do it for you, I'm quite confident he'll manage to return your R10s in good shape and perfect function.

I guess the guy who got your R10 thought that the pads would stick again in place after his looking at the rubber rings, but once he noticed he had fucked up them, the rubber inside was a complete mess, and he had managed to spread the old adhesive over the wood housing, he panicked and left the thing like that. I don't blame him for trying, but for not finishing the job, it's not that difficult and getting a new set of pads for a surgeon isn't that expensive. I had never made such thing he did to your R10 :palm:

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Torpedo,

Thanks for the instructions. I do think i will try to clean them myself before I send them for recabling. I'll let Alex put the pads on if he agrees to recable.

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Spill the beans on name of the guy that fucked up your R10's, especially if he posts on Head-Case or Head-Fi. Don't want to ever deal with this guy in the future.

Likely the foam just deteriorated with age. The black sticky stuff is the adhesive used for the ear pads. Any temps above 90 degrees F, will soften them enough that the ear pads will come off easily. In fact for replacing ear pads, the procedure is to use a hair drier or warm pad to warm them up for removeal. Either way, they leave a nasty sticky residue.

But recabling someone's headphones without asking them? No excuse for that one.

-Ed

Andy spilled the beans in another thread somewhere. The culprit is boilingfrog that guy who had his own R10s mangled by Jena Labs. He borrowed Andy's pair for some reason, reterminated the SinglePower replacement cable that was on it, ignored requests to return the cans, and then shipped them without telling Andy they were coming. They arrived in the state you see above. boilingfrog doesn't really post on HF but I certainly would never conduct any business with him or let him near me with a scalpel. :eek:

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Why the hell would you send your cans to a guy you dont know?

Why the hell won't you shut the fuck up?! :tmonk:

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Why the hell won't you shut the fuck up?! :tmonk:

Ditto!! Andy is a nice guy and who of us haven't sent cans to somebody we have never met?

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....who of us haven't sent cans to somebody we have never met?

Jeepster, because he's a douche.

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Ditto!! Andy is a nice guy and who of us haven't sent cans to somebody we have never met?

Me.

Oh, wait, thats not right.

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I think it is risky because the older glue can cause problems with the driver?? I know Alex had a problem with a recent pair he did, not sure exact reason, but a driver got ruined. He was thinking about not touching R10s anymore after that. I hope he will work with mine, so i wanted to give him an out with not recabling all the way to the driver.

Actually the problem was that the pair that was sent to me has been previously repaired and the current owner was not aware of this and so neither was I. Long story short I opened then and both drivers had 2inches of voice coil wire just hanging loose from the repair which I caught with the removal tool ripping it to the point of where I can no longer reach it. Again this is because the R10 was already repaired and the voice coil was left hanging out in the open.

I honestly can't believe how many people email us about damaged R10 headphones. :palm::palm::palm:

Andy's headphone was reterminated by me. boilingfrog (Scott) mailed me all 3 R10's not telling me who's the 3rd pair was, but telling me that they agreed to trade bass light for bass heavy and that since he is keeping these bass light that he needs it terminated to 1/4in since he doesn't use balanced.

I can say that R10 looks like that inside due to age. I have seen so many R10's like that or close to that. I actually have removed the R10 from APureSound and no longer even recable the R10 due to so many of them coming is either previously repaired and the current owner unaware of it or in this condition where it takes hours to properly clean them up.

If you own an R10 always keep it at room temperature and away from humidity. This will destroy your headphone!!!

Thanks,

Alex

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You need the urethane that goes around the driver, the urethane that goes between the wooden housing and the frame, and a new set of ear pads. Part #'s are below.

2-116-074-01 - small urethane

2-116-075-01 - large urethane

2-116-077-01 - left ear pad

2-116-078-01 - right ear pad

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Andy's headphone was reterminated by me. boilingfrog (Scott) mailed me all 3 R10's not telling me who's the 3rd pair was, but telling me that they agreed to trade bass light for bass heavy and that since he is keeping these bass light that he needs it terminated to 1/4in since he doesn't use balanced.

Yeah, we talked about this but he never made a decision and never asked me about sending them in to be recabled. It is obviously not Alex's fault in the least.

I can say that R10 looks like that inside due to age. I have seen so many R10's like that or close to that. I actually have removed the R10 from APureSound and no longer even recable the R10 due to so many of them coming is either previously repaired and the current owner unaware of it or in this condition where it takes hours to properly clean them up.

Please make an exception one last time. :confused: I'll do the cleaning.

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Please make an exception one last time. :confused: I'll do the cleaning.

I will since I unknowingly got dragged into this to begin with so I will help make things right. Make sure to read my post above.

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This stuff makes the SR-Omega look hassle free... :D

Ohh and Doug you count as you are always offering to send me the TakeT... :)

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The TakeT went to stay with cosmopragma last year. He wasn't very keen on it.

-1337 post-

Edited by Duggeh

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I'd like to know what Spritzer or Dr Gilmores idea of "overkill" for the TakeT might be. I've got a picture of those 1950s valve computers.

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A tweaked BH should do the job nicely. I could even build a tube PSU for it and charge 65k$... since you know... moar is always better. :D

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