luvdunhill Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 looky here... [ATTACH=CONFIG]3305[/ATTACH] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebby Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 Those heatsinks are nice, where'd you get them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cetoole Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I really like that knob, looks great, and I agree that will be perfect with a black case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Yeah, that knob is way nice. That is titanium? BTW, what ever happened to that guy on hf that was doing knobs? Seems like he disappeared, but I guess I haven't been over there much (at all) lately. I think he did a titanium one or two... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Yep, titanium. Very hard to machine correctly. Need special carbide tools, and if you don't get the feed rates right, the tools shatter. Or the surface ends up with golf ball dimples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voltron Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 Killer knob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 The only thing needed to finish off a truly over the top amp... a solid titanium knob. It was either this or pay a retarded anodizing fee for a one off silver knob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 1, 2010 Report Share Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) dact mounting brackets and a custom piece for Inu http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2bits.jpg definitely on schedule for stax jacks next week and more angle brackets the week after. Edited July 1, 2010 by kevin gilmore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inu Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I am afraid to apply HV to the amp board... Picasa Web Albums - inuponken - T2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 confirm the LV and heaters are working, then do what i do. goggles on, flip the switch from a safe location in case there is shrapnel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les_Garten Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 confirm the LV and heaters are working, then do what i do. goggles on, flip the switch from a safe location in case there is shrapnel You forgot the Hi Speed Video Camera! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nattonrice Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 As long as you flip it while facing Mecca you should be fine... =) Looks awesome btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wink Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Mecca...? Is that on the way to Pismo Beach? via Alberquerque? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Sawyers Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I am afraid to apply HV to the amp board... Picasa Web Albums - inuponken - T2 Looks awesome! Turning on power for the first time is a really sweaty palm moment. Always. The only insurance is to check, check - have a cup of coffee and go for a walk then check again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El_Doug Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I am afraid to apply HV to the amp board... Picasa Web Albums - inuponken - T2 Good luck! Your build is stunning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beefy Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 I am afraid to apply HV to the amp board... Picasa Web Albums - inuponken - T2 I think I just came a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 No guts, no glory. Check things over 9 times and then have at it. As long as there are no shorts on any of the current sources, no parts should fly. Make sure all the pots are set in the middle, makes things much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voltron Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Yew can dew eet Inu! Beautiful work thus far, and good luck with the next steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inu Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Thank you for the advice. Before soldering, adjusted in the middle position for all pots. Check Current Sources = OK, no shorts. Cafe break = done Wear goggle = OK Flip the switch from the safe location. Confirmed all heaters are ON and wait for the timer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 No burning parts is a good sign but did you test all the LED's prior to installing them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger945 Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Heh..lt wouldn't be a Gilmore design unless you had to adjust for the LED's to come on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inu Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 No burning parts is a good sign but did you test all the LED's prior to installing them? Yes, before install, I measured; Vf for all LEDs and diodes. hfe for all TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icarium Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Man so want titanium knobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Wrong value would be my guess then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Sawyers Posted July 2, 2010 Report Share Posted July 2, 2010 Thank you for the advice. Before soldering, adjusted in the middle position for all pots. Check Current Sources = OK, no shorts. Cafe break = done Wear goggle = OK Flip the switch from the safe location. Confirmed all heaters are ON and wait for the timer… No smoke and flying parts however, LED D1, D6,D7,D10,D11 D23 and D24 for both channel does not lit up. Active battery stays 808V and can’t adjust. I am regretting that I did not facing Mecca. That got me thinking. Doing some calculations, the LED's are all operating at reasonably low currents - either 1mA or around 0.5mA. So they will only light dimly, and from the datasheet develop 1.8V. I'd start looking around D24, Q30 and Q31. These are current sources for Q4, Q5 and provide the current through the batteries. This current should be 1.8 - Vbe = 1.2V across a 240 ohm emitter resistor - or 5mA. In addition if something is screwy with the circuit around D1, the biassing of Q4 and Q5 will be up the chute. One or both of those could well put the battery into an inappropriate regime - if it is expecting 5mA and is getting significantly less for example (I haven't figured the circuit for the battery yet). Er good luck - I'll be in the same place as you in around a month's time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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