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The ultimate DIY? A Stax SRM-T2!


spritzer

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Fucking hell that's ridiculous :palm:

Last time I had something sent using their 2-day express (or something like that) the morons at the brokerage Australia side read my label and instead of affixing the updated internal one they glued on something that sent to the other side of the city...

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The problem with internet postage (i have a suitable printer) especially with stuff going outside the country

which all 4 of these did, is all the customs forms, and the weight. I know my scale is accurate, as it matches

the one at work, and the package really is 39.5 lbs. But i got lucky and got the really messed up scale at

usps which weighed the packages at 33 and 35 lbs (they are absolutely identical in contents) and therefore

saved a few bucks. So now in total (not counting gas) but counting everything else including bubbles

and the packaging for the boards, i'm down to a loss of a little less than $8.

Fedex seems to be in the other direction. Their scale always weighs over the real weight. I wonder

if that is deliberate. At least fedex inside the usa is going to be only about $40 instead of the package

to Australia which was $235. And fedex international is way out of line price wise. Birgirs package

was even higher priced.

Would be amusing if you whipped out a reference weight next time you ran into one of these discrepancies...

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Would be amusing if you whipped out a reference weight next time you ran into one of these discrepancies...

The problem with this is that these scales are designed for 75 lbs or more. So my 200 gram calibration weights are kind of useless.

Besides which, if its under i'm happy, and if its over, they would not give a crap about it. But it might be interesting if i can find a calibration

weight in the 10 pound range. Actually i have a 100 oz silver bar that would be perfect, just need a few more. :D

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i must be lucky. got mine for around $100 and have done >1000 labels. i have gotten the dreaded red light a few times but always been fixed by opening and closing

The problem I'm having is mostly to do with the horrible Zebra software. Too lazy to make up a new template though

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started working on my PSU. I have a few questions :)

- which way should the screw connectors face? Perhaps it is obvious, but I wanted to double check as those are a pain to remove. I looked at some of Inu's photos, but didn't find a good one of the entire thing wired. Perhaps Kevin has a picture somewhere in his usual detail?

- how critical is R50 (290K on the 300v power supply)? I'm assuming this sets the output voltage? Would 300K work?

- perhaps it would be worthwhile to add a note on the schematic that showed a recommended value for the unmarked power rating resistors. For example, the 300K resistors used for the capacitor stacking probably should be more than a 1/2W I'm guessing?

- what current would you recommend testing the supplies at after they are built? I was assuming the current limited value? I'd like to order some test resistors, that's why I ask. I don't have any supercooling abilities, so I'll probably test one supply at a time then hope for the best from there.

- I'm not sure if anyone has fired up their board that isn't using the SumR transformers (Craig?) I'm assuming the 47 ohm heater resistors might need to be adjusted?

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this pic should do everything for you

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2power3.jpg

R50 sets the output voltage. so you probably want to go to the standard value of 287k which should be

a tad under 500 volts, but 300k would certainly work.

All of the .6 inch resistors are supposed to be .5 watt.

will update the schematic when i get home if i remember.

pick load resistors out of your junk bin, and test at say 60% of max power.

make sure they can handle the power, or dump in a plastic pail filled with

water and stay away....

The 47 ohm resistors are just to ground the input filament. Would be the same as

having a center tap on the transformer...

In the middle you can see the bare wire connecting circuit board ground to the

chassis nut close to it. Don't forget this.

Edited by kevin gilmore
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no spare heatsinks. But high probability of a complete extra chassis set without a

matching circuit board. Don't want to sell the heatsinks without the fronts/backs

as i only have complete matched sets.

ahh IC, well definitely keep me in the loop with that. i'll check the thread every couple of days. i'm getting some of the feet in the GB, so maybe can throw all mine and natonrice's feet in the box and ship it together. anyway i'll shoot you a PM with my contact details, you can let me know what the damage and availability is that way.

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ahh IC, well definitely keep me in the loop with that. i'll check the thread every couple of days. i'm getting some of the feet in the GB, so maybe can throw all mine and natonrice's feet in the box and ship it together. anyway i'll shoot you a PM with my contact details, you can let me know what the damage and availability is that way.

justin != kevin gilmore

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justin != kevin gilmore

doh, I had been linked to that GB thread and knew about the content before (but not who the OP was), and the page I was linked to had a post from Kevin saying he was getting a truckload of them, so i had assumed it was through you mate, sorry for the confusion. OK well doesnt matter so much, it would have only saved shipping money on the feet anyway, which is unlikely to even be in the same ballpark as shipping for the case to OZ. I guess will just see how things pan out, it would still save some dollars for sure, but i'm scared of the shipping bill. The sinks are large for sure and heavy, but nowhere near as large as the package has to be for the whole case. whats the total size and weight of the package so I can work out if this is even viable? silver or black? would prefer silver.

also, might be able to put you in contact with someone to get a good price on the Ti knobs

I bought these, custom made from my CAD file. I believe this is the knob jockey from HF that was mentioned earlier in the thread. I have a private email for him if you are having trouble contacting him. I think I paid like 200EU for the lot, 35EU for the large ones (once shipping was taken into account, which are pretty large at 50mm diameter and 40mm deep. I think he did an excellent job

knobs_ti.jpg

post-1090-12951157888096_thumb.jpg

Edited by qusp
checked the price and edited, was USD
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